How do you wire this controller?

[slayer021175666]

I have a bucket heater element that I would like to splice this controller into. I'm confused about how to do it, though. A pic would be great! Please, don't tell me the instructions are on the side of the controller. I realize that. I'm just not good at reading diagrams. Also, I've been told to ground the controller case but, if I drill a hole in the case to connect the ground wire from the wall plug-in, how do I run the rest of the ground wire that goes out to the element? Just connect it to the same ground screw so it loops around the screw and goes on out to the element?
Thanks in advance.

Teyletent Robot AC 110V 120V 220V 230V 10000W High Power SCR Motor Speed Controller Board Dimming/Attemperation/Voltage/Regulator/Thermoregulation/SCR Controller Board - - Amazon.com

 

[Bobby_M]

I can't speak to the quality of the unit or what ACTUAL wattage it can handle but....

One of the hot lines coming in to your box (let's call it L1) will attach to the COM terminal and continue on to the element cord's L1. How you physically do this is usually just with a large wire nut (one that can handle three 10 gauge wires).

The OTHER hot line coming in (call it L2) goes to IN. The L2 that goes to the element cord attaches to OUT.

The "knob" on this unit is likely tuned for 220v 50hz systems so you won't get the full range of output voltage but I don't know what you will get specifically.

The green ground wire just needs to get cut, wire nut those back together with a 3rd green wire connected to the heat sink.

 

[slayer021175666]

Thanks Bobby,
So if we speak in "color of wire" terms,
The black wire gets cut. The end coming from the wall outlet goes to the "IN" terminal and the end going to the element goes to the "OUT" terminal.
The white wire just goes into the "COM" from the wall outlet and back out of the "COM" to the element.
The green wire just goes to the metal case from the wall outlet and back out to the element.
Correct? So, the only wire that actually gets separated is, the black wire. Yes?

 

[Bobby_M]

Right

 

[slayer021175666]

Thanks Man!

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks Bobby,
So if we speak in "color of wire" terms,
The black wire gets cut. The end coming from the wall outlet goes to the "IN" terminal and the end going to the element goes to the "OUT" terminal.
The white wire just goes into the "COM" from the wall outlet and back out of the "COM" to the element.
The green wire just goes to the metal case from the wall outlet and back out to the element.
Correct? So, the only wire that actually gets separated is, the black wire. Yes?

Since you are using 120V, you don't have L1 and L2 (which are for 240V), but rather Hot (or L1) and Neutral. The hot is the black wire, and the neutral is the white wire. It is important that hot goes to "IN" and comes out of "OUT", and white goes to "COM" just as you have written. Green (ground) goes to the case, and then to the element.

Brew on

 

[slayer021175666]

Since you are using 120V, you don't have L1 and L2 (which are for 240V), but rather Hot (or L1) and Neutral. The hot is the black wire, and the neutral is the white wire. It is important that hot goes to "IN" and comes out of "OUT", and white goes to "COM" just as you have written. Green (ground) goes to the case, and then to the element.

Brew on

Right. Thank you, for helping me.

 

[slayer021175666]

Wait, doug. You mean that the neutral wire. White wire. Goes into the COM and then out of the COM to the element, right? Just have it go into the COM and directly out of the same terminal and out to the element. Pretty much just like the ground except, I will have to put a screw in the case or something for the ground.
Ya?

 

[doug293cz]

Wait, doug. You mean that the neutral wire. White wire. Goes into the COM and then out of the COM to the element, right? Just have it go into the COM and directly out of the same terminal and out to the element. Pretty much just like the ground except, I will have to put a screw in the case or something for the ground.
Ya?

Yes. That's correct.

Brew on

 

[BigDave1303]

If you don't feel confident in wiring & not good at reading diagrams then leave well alone & find someone who can do it.
Electricity can kill, is it worth the risk!

 

[slayer021175666]

Thanks Dave.
I'm quite aware, though. I already watched that old footage where they used electricity to kill the elephant!

 

[BigDave1303]

Thanks Dave.
I'm quite aware, though. I already watched that old footage where they used electricity to kill the elephant!

And that poor guy in The Green Mile

 

[Bobby_M]

Since you are using 120V, you don't have L1 and L2 (which are for 240V), but rather Hot (or L1) and Neutral. The hot is the black wire, and the neutral is the white wire. It is important that hot goes to "IN" and comes out of "OUT", and white goes to "COM" just as you have written. Green (ground) goes to the case, and then to the element.

Brew on

I assumed he was using 240v since it's usually not necessary to dial back power on a 120v element because it's barely enough to do anything.

 

[slayer021175666]

I knew you thought that but, the info you gave me was still usable.
The reason I'm using a controller on a 120 volt element is, I am running 2 at once because, one isn't quite enough to really make it boil with good vigor and two is too much. So, I am running one directly from the wall outlet at full power and the other with a controller.

 

[doug293cz]

I assumed he was using 240v since it's usually not necessary to dial back power on a 120v element because it's barely enough to do anything.

I only knew because of previous discussions.

Brew on

 

[slayer021175666]

UH-OH!
When I cut the outer insulation off the heater element cord, I found something unexpected.
It has 3 wires but, they're not the normal BLACK, WHITE and GREEN. They appear to be BLACK, Brown and Green. They could however, be BLACK, TAN and BLUE. The one I'm assuming is BROWN, is not a very true brown and the one I'm assuming is GREEN, is not a very true green. The BLACK is definitely Black, though.
Is this something foreign?
Is the Black wire hot, Brown is neutral and Green is ground or???
Damn. What do I do, now?

 

[doug293cz]

Can you take a picture? A common non-USA color code is Brown = Hot, Blue = Neutral, Green or Green/Yellow = Ground. If you have a multimeter/ohmmeter, you can test the wires after you cut them where you will splice in the controller. The round pin is ground, the wider flat blade is neutral, and the narrower flat blade is hot. "W" in the pic below is the neutral.

Brew on

 

[slayer021175666]

I couldn't get it to focus very good but here's a picture that at least shows the colors. I never thought of the ohm meter but that would work fine. By the way, the green wire doesn't have a yellow stripe. I already tried looking it up on the internet and saw that they did the green wire with a yellow stripe in other countries but, that's not what's going on here so I had to ask the form.

 

[doug293cz]

I couldn't get it to focus very good but here's a picture that at least shows the colors. I never thought of the ohm meter but that would work fine. By the way, the green wire doesn't have a yellow stripe. I already tried looking it up on the internet and saw that they did the green wire with a yellow stripe in other countries but, that's not what's going on here so I had to ask the form.

That's not one I have seen. Do you know where the heater was manufactured?

Brew on

 

[slayer021175666]

Well, I'm pretty damn sure it'd be China. I'll have a look.

 

[slayer021175666]

Well, the element itself doesn't say anything on it but, the box says china.
Diximus model DX-1500.