Brewhardware.com Spin Cycle Whirpool Arm - How high in keggle?

[thehebs]

I am finishing up my 2 keggles for hlt and boil, and the only thing I lack is the recirculation port for the brew keggle (for whirlpooling and chilling mostly).

I saw @Bobby_M post a vid on his facebook page about their new spin cycle whirlpool arm. I want it, but its currently out of stock.

I want to go ahead and drill the hole for it so I can finish up the keggle, but I was hoping someone could help me guesstimate where to drill. I mostly do 10 gal batches, but I want to make the outlet low enough to still be able to whirlpool a 5 gal batch.

What length tube should I get for a keggle, and how high should I drill the port? Any input is appreciated.


https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg1Sk6VFnbg[/ame]

Also @Bobby_M , if you are out there, any ETA on getting these back in stock?

 

[thehebs]

Nevermind, I used google images to find some sanke's with sight glasses, and was able to do some math for a 12" drop tube, and got the holes drilled.

Still curious about an ETA of when they might be available again though. For now I will just use a male camlock through the hole with a lock nut, washer, and o-ring, and some sort of jerry rigged whirlpool arm.

 

[lzrdkng14]

I too am interested to know when this back in stock...

 

[lzrdkng14]

Looks like these will be available "around" Feb. 10 according to: https://www.facebook.com/BrewHardware/

EDIT: based on your screen name and the name on the fb comment, you already know this ;-)

View attachment brewhardware.bmp

 

[Vandulus]

I just received mine this week and am trying to decide how high to install it on the kettle. I'm thinking at least 2" under the wort surface to keep hot wort aeration from being a problem, but is there any advantage to going lower?

 

[lzrdkng14]

I just received mine this week and am trying to decide how high to install it on the kettle. I'm thinking at least 2" under the wort surface to keep hot wort aeration from being a problem, but is there any advantage to going lower?

I am interested in an answer to this. I have a 52 qt kettle that is 15.25" tall. Was thinking I need a 10" and can figure the height out before I install it. 12" would probably be too long and would not have as much flexibility in the height.

 

[cod3ck]

I'm not an expert on this subject, but everyone that's shown whirlpool outlets on their kettles always has the connection higher up.

To me this makes sense since ultimately you're trying to create the easiest flow path for full circulation of the wort to either prevent stratification in the HLT, or allow the most trub possible to settle in the center of the BK.

 

[thehebs]

I'm not an expert on this subject, but everyone that's shown whirlpool outlets on their kettles always has the connection higher up.

To me this makes sense since ultimately you're trying to create the easiest flow path for full circulation of the wort to either prevent stratification in the HLT, or allow the most trub possible to settle in the center of the BK.

From what I have seen, you want the bottom of the arm at least an inch below the surface. You want the top of the arm as high as you can, or else you will have to put a ball valve on it because if the wort level is above the connection, itll flow out. I am planning on using a 12 inch arm, which should put the bottom of the tube about an inch above my ball valve, and put the top as high as I can go in my keggle.

 

[thehebs]

edit

 

[thehebs]

These are back in stock by the way. I got my 12" arm in the mail today. Its a really nice piece

 

[lzrdkng14]

These are back in stock by the way. I got my 12" arm in the mail today. Its a really nice piece

I got the 10 inch but haven't installed it yet. What height do you have the bottom at?

 

[-CHRIS-]

These are back in stock by the way. I got my 12" arm in the mail today. Its a really nice piece

Did you get the straight spin cycle or the slightly bent one? I can't see where I would install it in my keggle that I would need a slight bend in the tube.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Jwin]

Necro thread
For spin cycle owners, is there any news for a ball valve on these? Curious if I can just camlock and go. Don't want wort shooting out like some sight gauges do.
I plan on positioning them at the top of my kettles(15/20g) but I do push the limits of my 15g one.
I suppose I could always get a camlock cap, but would like to be done ordering hardware(for now).

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I am going this route. I have welded drain and therm ports on my kettle and didn't want to drill a hole for whirlpool arm. I attach it to my immersion chiller since they're used at the same time.

http://betatestbrewing.com/whirlpool-arm.html

 

[Bobby_M]

I am going this route. I have welded drain and therm ports on my kettle and didn't want to drill a hole for whirlpool arm. I attach it to my immersion chiller since they're used at the same time.

http://betatestbrewing.com/whirlpool-arm.html

I whirlpool for a bit AFTER I remove the immersion chiller so having it attached wouldn't work for me. The IC does impede cone formation if you care about such things.

 

[govner1]

Necro thread
For spin cycle owners, is there any news for a ball valve on these? Curious if I can just camlock and go. Don't want wort shooting out like some sight gauges do.
I plan on positioning them at the top of my kettles(15/20g) but I do push the limits of my 15g one.
I suppose I could always get a camlock cap, but would like to be done ordering hardware(for now).

I connected a 90° elbow to a ball valve and then put a camlock connection on that. This allows me to connect my in flow from my CFC and prevent any back flow

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I whirlpool for a bit AFTER I remove the immersion chiller so having it attached wouldn't work for me. The IC does impede cone formation if you care about such things.

We'll see if that's the case. I'm expecting it to work more like one of those trub catchers where it helps hold the cone while I drain. If it's a problem, I'll attach to the side like the linked design and remove the chiller for the final whirlpool. I don't expect a problem given that my manual whirlpool with the chiller in place didn't have issues with a nice cone.

No way am I drilling a hole in my new kettle. There's just no reason to with the available top entry whirlpool arm options. Everyone has to do what's best for them though.

 

[RoGuE_HAHG]

Anyone install this Spincycle drop in a kettle vessel with a ridge (presumably for a false bottom) like on mine? My ridge is at 3.25"

@Bobby_M - Do you have suggestions on where to place the Spincycle outlet in the kettle?

on the ridge? below it? Would I need to bend it out from the kettle wall for best circulation below the ridge?

 

[cod3ck]

Anyone install this Spincycle drop in a kettle vessel with a ridge (presumably for a false bottom) like on mine? My ridge is at 3.25"



@Bobby_M - Do you have suggestions on where to place the Spincycle outlet in the kettle?



on the ridge? below it? Would I need to bend it out from the kettle wall for best circulation below the ridge?

Depends if you do a smaller batch size, but I'd set the arm outlet at the 5 gal mark facing parallel with the kettle wall and call it good!

 

[RoGuE_HAHG]

Depends if you do a smaller batch size, but I'd set the arm outlet at the 5 gal mark facing parallel with the kettle wall and call it good!

Thanks for the response. My only concern there is that the flow will be deflected by the ridge and leave hops/protein/coldbreak along the outer edges of the bottom

 

[cod3ck]

Where is your pickup tube?

 

[RoGuE_HAHG]

Where is your pickup tube?

1 gallon mark or so

 

[Bobby_M]

Above the ridge is fine. Whirlpooling doesn't work the way you would think. It just needs to create the vortex.

 

[RoGuE_HAHG]

Got it. Thanks Bobby!