Best Grains for new AG/BIAB brewer

[Mike Newman]

Hello!

I just got my tax refund and decided as a gift to myself I am going to stock up on grains since I recently stopped brewing with extract. My LHBS is pretty expensive (6.50 per lb for Pilsner milled). So what I was thinking is that I would get bulk base malts (I.e. 2 row, Pilsner, Maris Otter, etc.), and just get specialty grains from him when needed.

I’m wondering what I should stock up on??? I have been wanting to start developing a recipe for most styles of beer, and I want to get a good size order put together (60$ worth) so I can get free shipping!

 

[Morrey]

Hello!

I just got my tax refund and decided as a gift to myself I am going to stock up on grains since I recently stopped brewing with extract. My LHBS is pretty expensive (6.50 per lb for Pilsner milled). So what I was thinking is that I would get bulk base malts (I.e. 2 row, Pilsner, Maris Otter, etc.), and just get specialty grains from him when needed.

I’m wondering what I should stock up on??? I have been wanting to start developing a recipe for most styles of beer, and I want to get a good size order put together (60$ worth) so I can get free shipping!

Mike, I have never seen prices as high as $6.50 per pound for milled Pils....no wonder you are looking to stock up some.

Like you suggest you may do, I buy 50# sacks of base malts like 2 row, Pils, Maris Otter, then use the LHBS for smaller quantities of specialty malts used in smaller amounts. BUT, I am buying unmilled grains for storage.

Since you are allocating some "windfall" funds towards malts and grains, this may be an optimal time to look into an inexpensive grain mill. You'll find a large number of brewers who recognize the advantage of milling their own grains on brew day, and not sitting on large quantities of pre-milled grains. Seems pre-milled grains may become oxidized and lose some of their vitality in a short time. Fresh crushing on brew day provides the very best freshness and rewards you with the best beer possible.

 

[ESBrewer]

Yes, vote for your own grain mill. It may be a good idea to buy base malt uncrushed in sacks, but I would only buy an amount that will be used in a year or in a year and a half. Just to make sure that your key ingredients are always fresh. For this reason, you should stop and think about the beers that you would like to brew in the near future and buy those base malts that will be needed in these beers. For ales, definitely pale ale malt (Maris Otter or some other barley variety), for wheat beers, maybe wheat malt. For many lagers and lighter pale ales pilsner (or 2-row).

 

[chickypad]

My LHBS is pretty expensive (6.50 per lb for Pilsner milled).

I'm all for supporting the LHBS when you can, but that pricing is ridiculous. Are you on a remote island somewhere or something? I'd take all my business elsewhere and let the owner know why.

 

[MaxStout]

You can buy malts from MoreBeer for very reasonable prices, and free shipping to the lower 48 for orders over $59. I recommend getting a mill. With the difference in price per pound between your LHBS and somewhere else, you'll recoup the cost of that mill quickly. And it's better to buy uncrushed grain, it lasts longer. A few 5 gallon buckets with Gamma Seal lids and you'll start saving big $$ over what you're doing now.

 

[Mike Newman]

I'm all for supporting the LHBS when you can, but that pricing is ridiculous. Are you on a remote island somewhere or something? I'd take all my business elsewhere and let the owner know why.

Yeah, he is in my homebrew club so I buy some stuff there but I think he is struggling to stay in business so he overcharges

 

[Mike Newman]

Mike, I have never seen prices as high as $6.50 per pound for milled Pils....no wonder you are looking to stock up some.

Like you suggest you may do, I buy 50# sacks of base malts like 2 row, Pils, Maris Otter, then use the LHBS for smaller quantities of specialty malts used in smaller amounts. BUT, I am buying unmilled grains for storage.

Since you are allocating some "windfall" funds towards malts and grains, this may be an optimal time to look into an inexpensive grain mill. You'll find a large number of brewers who recognize the advantage of milling their own grains on brew day, and not sitting on large quantities of pre-milled grains. Seems pre-milled grains may become oxidized and lose some of their vitality in a short time. Fresh crushing on brew day provides the very best freshness and rewards you with the best beer possible.

If I ordered my grains milled and stored them in airtight containers, how long would they stay fresh?

 

[MaxStout]

Yeah, he is in my homebrew club so I buy some stuff there but I think he is struggling to stay in business so he overcharges

That's a sign of a business circling the drain. The sales volume is down, so they compensate by boosting margins. Not good. While it's good to patronize local businesses, $6.50 a pound for malt is way beyond the tipping point for loyalty.

Crushed grains in airtight containers should last a few months.

 

[z-bob]

Buy a cheap knockoff of one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00838YC5A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Or a genuine Corona mill from a flea market. They are perfectly adequate for BIAB brewing. They might produce a little too much flour for more traditional setups, I don't know. The one I have is about 40 years old and still going strong.

Then get you a 50 pound or 25 kilo bag of plain 2-row malt, or pilsner malt, or pale ale malt, or Vienna -- it depends what kind of beer you want to brew, but they are all base malts that can be used for up to 100% of the grist.

Edit: A few months for crushed grains, a few years for whole grains.

 

[ESBrewer]

This is the one that I am using now. Probably works well with BIAB cause it works with my small DIY mash tun + batch sparging. Makes some flour even on coarse setting and shreds the husks to a degree as any corona style mill, but it is not a problem when the mash pH is correct. Important to do some vorlauf when combined with traditional mash tuns. The video can be useful when assembling it for the first time.

 

[Morrey]

This is the one that I am using now. Probably works well with BIAB cause it works with my small DIY mash tun + batch sparging. Makes some flour even on coarse setting and shreds the husks to a degree as any corona style mill, but it is not a problem when the mash pH is correct. Important to do some vorlauf when combined with traditional mash tuns. The video can be useful when assembling it for the first time.

I have one of these...exact same model. You can remove the hand crank and replace it with a 4" hex headed bolt and drive the mill with a hand drill if you are inclined to make life a bit easier.

 

[Mike Newman]

I have one of these...exact same model. You can remove the hand crank and replace it with a 4" hex headed bolt and drive the mill with a hand drill if you are inclined to make life a bit easier.

Does the grain end up too powdery for all grain batches when compared to BIAB? I saw an above comment that said it might and just curious what your experience is.

 

[Morrey]

Does the grain end up too powdery for all grain batches when compared to BIAB? I saw an above comment that said it might and just curious what your experience is.

To be honest, this is not my primary mill as I have and use a Monster 3 Roller Mill as my main mill. I use the Corona for grinding corn for mashing (another subject) as well as wheat and rye which is a harder, huskless grain compared to barley.

However, this mill would be suitable for BIAB since some powder mixed in is not going to stop the show. Granted it may give some powdery grind mixed in with some larger pieces of kernels, but this is typical of a grinder of this type.

While the Corona may be a huge hit with some brewers, like I mentioned, I use mine for a secondary grinder preferring the consistent crush of a 3 roller mill in comparison. I suppose it all boils down to your financial commitment you want to put into your brewing hobby, but the Corona could work for BIAB.

 

[ESBrewer]

I have one of these...exact same model. You can remove the hand crank and replace it with a 4" hex headed bolt and drive the mill with a hand drill if you are inclined to make life a bit easier.

Yes, I have thought about the drill option as well but haven't tried it yet as I only brew 1.25 gal batches now. But it is good to hear that it works. I think the amount of flour is because the plates do not run 100% parallel (not in my version at least). If you are handy, this can probably be fixed at least partly. But haven't really felt need to do it and my lautering is goin very well now and wort runs clear after some vorlauf. Of course a large batch in another type of tun or fly sparging could cause stuck sparges. BIAB could be different. I don't know.

 

[JohnSand]

I used a corona mill and even an old blender for years of BIAB, no problems.
I buy pilsner or pale by the sack. I find that munich is in many recipes, maybe the most common ingredient after two row, so I buy ten pounds of that. A pound of several crystals and maybe some dark roasts will give you a wide range. Mine are in buckets or pet food containers. I rarely have to plan a brew day, as I have everything I need on hand for my favorite styles.