I've been using a PID controlled boil kettle for BIAB brewing for a couple of years now, wanted to upgrade my control box. The Keggle is the same one I've been using for about 2 years now. The control box was previously a single PID in a huge Cutler Hammer electrical box, and looked odd to say the least.
So I built this in December, have used it 8-10 times since then.
its red oak chest with simple mitered corners, with glue blocks for re-enforcement. Top panel is corian from an old counter top, the brass banding I cut from a piece of scrap sheet brass from the local metal recycle business (they sell all kinds of interesting stuff)
2 PID, 2 40 amp SSR inside. One to control the RIMS tube, and one to control the boil kettle.
The copper tube on top is the rims tube. Its a 1 1/2 inch copper pipe. The "posts" holding up the RIMS tube are the inlet and outlet. Wires to element are on the left, RTD sensor on the right. I don't really need the RIMS tube for brewing, but will need it for controlled temp water bath for chocolate making, so it will get used.
The pump is built into the box.
This shows the electrical hook up:
It can run (RIMS only) on 110v, or change the selector for 240v for both RIMS and the boil pot.
This is the backside:
The pump intake is the hose connection with no label in the middle. You can see the plate heat exchanger on the far side.
The hose is not standard. It is 1/2 silicone "vacuum hose", the wall diameter is 1/4 inch, the inner diameter is a little less than 3/8 in. Makes a very tight connection over 1/2 inch barb connections.
No I don't worry about leaks, anymore than I worry about leaks in the pipes in my house when I do my own work. Just like any plumbing, it takes slow patient work getting all the pipe connections lined up , tight and leak free. It took several pressure tests with water to make sure everything was tight. U
For those who like to see element enclosures:
There is a stainless 1 inch lock nut silver soldered to the boil pot. The copper box was folded into shape and silver soldered. I scribed the curve from the boil pot onto the copper box, bent down tabs along that line, and soldered it on with soft plumbing solder (much lower heat than silver solder, so I didn't have to worry about the nut on the keggle)
tim
So I built this in December, have used it 8-10 times since then.
its red oak chest with simple mitered corners, with glue blocks for re-enforcement. Top panel is corian from an old counter top, the brass banding I cut from a piece of scrap sheet brass from the local metal recycle business (they sell all kinds of interesting stuff)
2 PID, 2 40 amp SSR inside. One to control the RIMS tube, and one to control the boil kettle.
The copper tube on top is the rims tube. Its a 1 1/2 inch copper pipe. The "posts" holding up the RIMS tube are the inlet and outlet. Wires to element are on the left, RTD sensor on the right. I don't really need the RIMS tube for brewing, but will need it for controlled temp water bath for chocolate making, so it will get used.
The pump is built into the box.
This shows the electrical hook up:
It can run (RIMS only) on 110v, or change the selector for 240v for both RIMS and the boil pot.
This is the backside:
The pump intake is the hose connection with no label in the middle. You can see the plate heat exchanger on the far side.
The hose is not standard. It is 1/2 silicone "vacuum hose", the wall diameter is 1/4 inch, the inner diameter is a little less than 3/8 in. Makes a very tight connection over 1/2 inch barb connections.
No I don't worry about leaks, anymore than I worry about leaks in the pipes in my house when I do my own work. Just like any plumbing, it takes slow patient work getting all the pipe connections lined up , tight and leak free. It took several pressure tests with water to make sure everything was tight. U
For those who like to see element enclosures:
There is a stainless 1 inch lock nut silver soldered to the boil pot. The copper box was folded into shape and silver soldered. I scribed the curve from the boil pot onto the copper box, bent down tabs along that line, and soldered it on with soft plumbing solder (much lower heat than silver solder, so I didn't have to worry about the nut on the keggle)
tim
