Did I just oxidize my entire 5 gallons of beer?

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johnsnownw

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So, started using a BB with the spigot and racking adapter...had a 1/2 inch silicone hose attached to the spigot and was racking into bottling "bucket". The beer wouldn't completely take up the volume of the hose until the last gallon or so. Meaning that there was clearly air inside the hose. This seems bad.

Thanks.
 
It could be bad, depending on just how much air got in. Once the beer was in the bottling bucket, was there a lot of bubbles on top? I would stay positive and go with it!!! Just bottle it and see how it goes.
 
It could be bad, depending on just how much air got in. Once the beer was in the bottling bucket, was there a lot of bubbles on top? I would stay positive and go with it!!! Just bottle it and see how it goes.

Trying to stay positive, because it tasted fantastic. Not really many bubbles on top...at least not more than usual with Starsan foamage also being on top.
 
I did that with my racking cane when racking my hef to a keg, tube wasn't tight enough and didn't realize it till over half the beer was transferred. Lots of air coming in where the hose met the cane, beer's been great. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Oxidizing your fermented beer will effect the long term storage. The theory is that it contributes your beer going stale prematurely. If you drink it up, problem solved. Also proper storage (cold) will extend its life.
 
I always thoroughly clean the spigot & mounting hole on my fermenters & bottling buckets. Dried crud can build up inside & make the flow uneven. I use PBE & aquarium lift tube brushes to clean the spigots inside & out. I strain everything going into primary to get less compacted trub as well to keep the spigot clear. But as mentioned,getting the tubing tight on the spout of the spigot will also help keep air out of the line. My BB ale pail has a barrel tap on it (large spigot) that needs a 5/8" tube to rack with. I only get a few bubble streams at the very begining,since it fits very tight. You just have to elliminate any places where air can get sucked in by keeping things tight.
 
Try to use 3/8" is possible. It's harder to get air in smaller hoses. If your fitting is larger (1/2" or 5/8"), use a short piece of tubing to reduce it down. e.g.: To reduce 1/2" fitting to 3/8", use a short piece of 1/2" in which you then lodge a piece of 3/8". Try it with water first to verify that it doesn't leak.

MC
 
I think you'll be fine. People really get worked up over oxidization worries. A few bubbles of air here and there are no problem. IMHO, people should pay closer attention proper temps, sanitization and pitch rates.
 
I appreciate the responses guys. I can assure you all that no air was getting in at the spigot connection. What seems to have happened is that some citra leaf bits got stuck at some point, decreasing the flow rate. So, the air that was present in the hose, was there from before I began.

I'm bottle conditioning, as well, so I'm wondering if some of the O2 will be removed by the yeast? And I also capped with O2 absorbing caps.

This beer will have the standard 3 week conditioning, then go straight into the fridge for the rest of its "life." There seems to be quite a bit of misinformation regarding oxidation...and I have no idea how quickly this needs to be drunk, but I don't see it lasting more than 6 weeks in the fridge before it's gone.
 
Yup,that'll do it. Darn leaf hops can get into everything. Clogging & making a mess. That's why I use hop & grain sacks for pellet or whole leaf hops. A lot less mess & no clogging.
 
Awe man, oxidized your beer? That sucks, especially with the new Health and Safety regulation 19002:2013 which has come into effect. That now makes your booze a hazardous substance, which is going to be very costly to get rid of. Luckily for you, I have the correct equipment and training at my disposal. Since your a member of HBT I guess I can do you the favor and get rid of it for you. I'll PM you my address and you can send it over. No need to thank me, I bet your glad you posted here. It must be your lucky day :)
 
Awe man, oxidized your beer? That sucks, especially with the new Health and Safety regulation 19002:2013 which has come into effect. That now makes your booze a hazardous substance, which is going to be very costly to get rid of. Luckily for you, I have the correct equipment and training at my disposal. Since your a member of HBT I guess I can do you the favor and get rid of it for you. I'll PM you my address and you can send it over. No need to thank me, I bet your glad you posted here. It must be your lucky day :)

If you need my help, my address is just a pm away, as well :)
 
Awe man, oxidized your beer? That sucks, especially with the new Health and Safety regulation 19002:2013 which has come into effect. That now makes your booze a hazardous substance, which is going to be very costly to get rid of. Luckily for you, I have the correct equipment and training at my disposal. Since your a member of HBT I guess I can do you the favor and get rid of it for you. I'll PM you my address and you can send it over. No need to thank me, I bet your glad you posted here. It must be your lucky day :)

If you need my help, my address is just a pm away, as well :)

I appreciate the offer of help, you can really count on the HBT community to lend a hand :p:mug:
 
I think you'll be fine. People really get worked up over oxidization worries. A few bubbles of air here and there are no problem. IMHO, people should pay closer attention proper temps, sanitization and pitch rates.

I agree its' like when you have post on a car forum about your radiator hose leaking and half the replies are you need to over haul your motor, your tranny's going out, etc.

I've done MANY things to my beer that I've read will "oxidize" it and it never happened. I think you have sloppy brewers that cause their own issues and those that stay on path and make good beer.
 
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