My planned Ebiab keggle cheap, simple controller

As I'm waiting for my Stout kettle to arrive I realize I need to brew, and soon. I'm building a single pid controlled ebiab controller, using mostly Auber Instruments gear, and stealing a lot from voltin, P-J, and many others who have gone before me and helped immensely. More on that later. I have a 60 amp gfci installed in my main panel, which I'm running out to my brewshed, and I want to run a ebiab keggle off of this (I had originally planned on doing a 3v herms, hence the 60a gfci). So on to the point of this new thread : : :

To hold me over until my new Stout kettle gets here, and I build a nice controller, I am building a simple, cheap (hopefully), electric controller for my e-keggle with parts sourced mostly from ebay. I already bought this ssvr/potentiometer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553987088?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
and other than that, want to install a simple DPST 30a switch to kill power prior to the SSVR/Pot. Question is, will any of these switches (especially the red one, because it looks cool) fit the bill?
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/e...ggle-Switch-30A-277V-AC-Double-Pole-Pilot-Red
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Square-D-mo...726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19dab629be
I am going to put it all in a junction box from Lowe's (probably) and was going use a 3 prong dryer plug as receptacle and my source of wire for the build.


And that's it, except for the heatsink for the SSVR . One switch, variable power control, element in keggle. Works?

Looks like it'll work.

Cant see the ebay links due to work but you diagram doesn't make sense, is the SSR/pot. you are talking about a seperate SSR and pot. or is it an SCR unit? Can you post a picture from the ebay listing?

I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100356...yc1vZbojhZwcZ1z10sca&R=100356941#.UWYMki0o6P8

Swamproad said:

I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100356941?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&N=5yc1vZbojhZwcZ1z10sca&R=100356941#.UWYMki0o6P8

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Nice, I hadn't found that one yet. I wonder if it's rated to 30a for 120v only though, and maybe only 13a for 277v? It lists both voltages under specifications, but only one amperage rating. If 30a at 277v, I'm all in for that one instead...

Swamproad said:

I am looking at doing the same except using this switch: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100356...yc1vZbojhZwcZ1z10sca&R=100356941#.UWYMki0o6P8

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Can anyone help me understand about this one, or can I go look at it at Home Depot and figure it out? I thought most switches with dual voltage ratings had a lower amperage rating at the higher voltage, but this one doesn't list anything. Obviously, I can't use a 15A/120v rated light switch to control my element, too much current etc. I was hoping this one will work but don't want to find out it doesn't with a smoke test.

I have a similar setup w/ the phase angle ssr and a pid. Works great for eBIAB.

Hd and lowers have a dpdt light switch rated 220v and 30 amps.

I would consider using you full size panel with a panel mount switch and a contactor to enable/disable the element. This will make not easy to add a PID.

Any update on this project? I'm curious to hear the results.

Just got back from a short mission, now im taking two weeks off to brew and work on my little projects like this. I'll post up as soon as I'm done.

Made a little headway last night. Got the controller finished, hooked up to the element, started to piece together the stand... Today I need to install my 60a gfci and finish running cable to the shed so I can do the water test. Will post up pics soon

I tried out my EBIAB controller like the one you proposed building on Fathers Day. The SSR/pot along with a camco 5500 watt element in my keggle worked great. Heats water real fast and is definitely faster than propane.

Nice! Now I know it should work for me if I ever get my 240 run.

I made hot water last night!

So my stand is made from some left over deck boards and scrap wood I had laying around, don't judge me! The pump recircs from the bottom, through the ccfc, and onto the top of the grain bed. I will also recirc during the boil every 10-15ish minutes so the liquid in those lines gets good and mixed in. Hopefully like this I won't have to swap hoses out at all during the entire process.

1 hour to ambient to boiling, 15 gallons in a non-insulated keggle. That's not to bad, right?

Made my first electric brew yesterday! Had a few small hiccups, but the controller worked great.

Nicely done. Your OP was a big influence in my decision to go the SSVR route - the more I thought about how I want my system to work, the more I realized I didn't really need a PID. My hope is to insulate my keggle well enough that it holds mash temperature without needing to fire the element between dough-in and bag-out. If it doesn't, having a knob to control element output should come in handy.

After trolling round eBay for an hour yesterday looking for a suitable enclosure for my controller, I went to Lowe's and picked up a 6x6x4 Cantex box just like yours. Looks like it will work well.

Glad I could help. I really like it so far, the simple yet functional, no frills approach is what I was going for. I am pleased.

Where did you get your heatsink and box?

Auber instruments 40a heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=224
Lowes 6 x 6 x 4 cantex PVC junction box

Working really well still, in case anyone is wondering, just completed my third ten gallon eBiab and I'm still fine tuning the process. Seems like a perfect replacement if all you want to do is go from propane to electric, no real learning curve and greater controllability over temperature changes. The fine tuning is mostly because I've never done biab!

Your system looks nice.
Would like to see/hear some details about your heating element junction box.
Store-bought or DIY?

DIY from store bought stuff, I'm headed away for a little while but when I get back I'll try to get a picture or two for ya. Pretty much just a small metal junction box with an element in it!

What are you doing a GFCI outlet? Or did you swap out your breaker with a GFCI?

I have a gfci breaker installed

I know this might be a old thread but I was wondering if that is an ssr or a ssvr or are they the same thing. Im wondering because I have a 25a ssr and if they are the same or can be used the same I can save a little bit on my build.

dogwolf,
I used an ssvr, not an SSR. the difference is the 'v' - variable. I'm not smart enough to explain how it works, but I know it does and that it doesn't work with an SSR.

I added a controller like this to my system and it works great!
I love the simplicity - so easy to dial-in a rolling boil...

The pot & SSR combos from EBay are brilliant!
I used a 40A heatsink from EBay (cheap), and it just gets a little warm during operation (not hot) - does the job without worry.
My watertight project box was from Home Depot.

I never bothered with the DPDT switch - I installed a 40A plug and socket so that I can completely connect/disconnect my boil kettle from the controller box.

My entire system is protected by a GFCI spa panel. (I wouldn't think of mixing water & electricity without it!)

Cheers!

Wish I would have found this before I built my PWM...

So simple!

cliffhanger1821 said:

dogwolf,
I used an ssvr, not an SSR. the difference is the 'v' - variable. I'm not smart enough to explain how it works, but I know it does and that it doesn't work with an SSR.

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May I make a friendly suggestion? Later in your thread (see above) you clarify that you used a SSVR, not simply a SSR/Pot. In posting #8 jCOSbrew hints at it when mentioning what he did. If it's possible for one to "edit" one's opening post, please go back to your first posting and change every mention of "SSR" or "SSR/Pot" to SSVR. That would make it more clear what you're doing.

Thanks for posting your build. While it isn't exactly like High Gravity's Electric Kettle Controller, it looks like it would accomplish the exact same thing: simply doing with electricity what you were doing previously with propane, but much less expensive than the purchased controller.

Respectfully,
Keith

kzimmer0817 said:

Thanks for posting your build. While it isn't exactly like High Gravity's Electric Kettle Controller, it looks like it would accomplish the exact same thing: simply doing with electricity what you were doing previously with propane, but much less expensive than the purchased controller.

Respectfully,
Keith

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To be fair a manual control capable pid controller with rtd, ssr and heat sink can be purchased for $40.... I don't think that's "much less expensive" than what the OP paid for his setup...

augiedoggy said:

To be fair a manual control capable pid controller with rtd, ssr and heat sink can be purchased for $40.... I don't think that's "much less expensive" than what the OP paid for his setup...

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Thanks, augiedoggy. I guess I was thinking more on the lines of less expensive than the $249 simple controller from High Gravity.

Keith

kzimmer0817 said:

Thanks, augiedoggy. I guess I was thinking more on the lines of less expensive than the $249 simple controller from High Gravity.

Keith

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Ah yes.... Gotcha
Very True.
If keeping it cheap is a variable I strongly recommend against paying someone else to assemble it for you... you'll be looking at 2 to 3 times the cost easy.

kzimmer0817 said:

May I make a friendly suggestion? Later in your thread (see above) you clarify that you used a SSVR, not simply a SSR/Pot. In posting #8 jCOSbrew hints at it when mentioning what he did. If it's possible for one to "edit" one's opening post, please go back to your first posting and change every mention of "SSR" or "SSR/Pot" to SSVR. That would make it more clear what you're doing.

Thanks for posting your build. While it isn't exactly like High Gravity's Electric Kettle Controller, it looks like it would accomplish the exact same thing: simply doing with electricity what you were doing previously with propane, but much less expensive than the purchased controller.

Respectfully,
Keith

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Got it, thanks! I didn't notice that I did that

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Home Brew mobile app

cliffhanger1821 said:

Got it, thanks! I didn't notice that I did that

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Thanks. That makes it clearer for someone who picks up your thread at the beginning. Thank you, also, for not being offended at my suggestion..

Keith