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littled630

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I did everything right from what i thought gave 2 weeks bottle conditioning at room temp and one week in fridge to drop yeast and yet i had no carbonation at all. This was my first batch and it boiled over causing me to loose half a gallon on a gallon batch but i primed with dme using northern brewers priming calc. What could have happened ill know soon if it was just my bottle or all bottles as the rest were given out to people who wanted to try it.
 
The boilover is irrelevant.

Did you boil your priming sugar and add the liquid to your bottling bucket? Or did you just stir in dry DME? If not boiled, you won't have a good mix; some bottles will be flat, some will be overcarbed.

3 weeks at 70 degrees F is the baseline for typical gravity beers. Higher gravity or lower temps will cause the beer to take longer. Also, DME is notorious for taking longer to carb than corn or cane sugar.

You did 2 weeks... once in the fridge, carbing basically stops. The answer is to take them out, warm them up, and leave them alone for another couple weeks.
 
It hasnt progressed any in the first two weeks no good trub on bottom. Im thinking this batch is shot it was only 4 bottles due to loosing half a gallon so not a big loss but i gotta fix it or all my beer will be screwed. I was never told to boil the primer. The LHBS owner just said add the primer. So how do i know how much water to boil the dme in? Also do i filter the primer wort as i put it in or just boil it, cool it, and carefully add it to bottling bucket?
 
Also the last batch i bottled last saturday night seems to be cleared of the haze and has a good layer of trub on the bottom.
 
You can prime with DME, corn sugar or table (cane) sugar. All you're doing is giving the yeast extra food so they can make the CO2.

I always boil the cup or so of water (in a Pyrex cup in the microwave) into which I'm going to add the priming agent then bring it to a boil again in the microwave. There shouldn't be any need to filter anything since there should be no solids.

When you add it to the beer in the bottling bucket, give it a very gentle stir with a sanitized plastic spoon to get even distribution.

You'll need to give the bottles a minimum 3 weeks at 70*F (longer if it's cooler) plus a few days in the fridge.
 
Ok yeah somewhere i heard the last week should be chilled of the three weeks. Now should i still use a cup of water if im only doind one gallon batches or should i cut that down a bit? The only reason im using dme is because i was told by my LHBS that it would give a sweeter taste then the others because of the non fermentables in dme.
 
Ok yeah somewhere i heard the last week should be chilled of the three weeks.

I'm not sure that I'm following you here.

Now should i still use a cup of water if im only doind one gallon batches or should i cut that down a bit? The only reason im using dme is because i was told by my LHBS that it would give a sweeter taste then the others because of the non fermentables in dme.

For those little batches, I'd just do 1/3-1/2 cup. It's doesn't need to be precise.

As far as priming with DME making the beer sweeter, I don't think it would have any noticeable impact considering the small amount involved. Most folks prime with corn sugar (dextrose) or plain 'ol table (cane) sugar.
 
I actually remembered that i was never told to fill the air lock with fluid. My airlock on the first batch was dry till about 5 days into primary ferm. I prolly got oxygen sucked back into the batch and ruined the whole batch. I tested one of my nine bottles from my second batch today, which is only 6 days into bottle conditioning and it had some carb but not much and stil had a bit of a bite. So im thinking that first batch must have gotten infected!
 
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