DWright
Member
I looked at all the threads with custom paint and decided to keep it original and vintage. Picked up the fridge on CL for $125, the taps with pulls and stems on ebay for $20 and couldn't be happier with the end result.
Vintage GE Kegerator
- Thread starter DWright
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
As in, through the inner and outer portions?
You could: Mark your locations that you want your taps on the exterior, eyeball the interior panel and see if the location will work for you, (ie: flat enough, not in a radius that will cause you a problem, etc...), Make a pilot hole from the exterior through to the interior, using an extension bit, ( a LONG drill bit), go to the interior and figure out how much room you need around your shanks, so that you can easily secure them to the metal door, ( give your self room for a wrench and your hands to fit in the interior "cutout"), cut out the interior, make a "close out" box around your through the door "penetrations".
Then, open up your holes through the skin to your shank or tap size, whatever you need.
I don't know the sizes, but there is prolly' an el cheapo "unibit" out there to meet your needs.
OR:
Lay it out the same way, pull the inner door skin and the ensuing fiberglass insulation mess, and make your cuts / modifications to the inner skin.
Wear a dust mask when screwin' with the inner liner and fiberglass insulation!
Howzat?
I guess I meant the whole door. What kind of drill bits do I need to get through the door?
OP
OP
DWright
Member
I took a regular bit drilled through both the inner and outer together. Then took a step bit and drilled them separately. I did take it apart first to ensure I wasn't going to hit one of the braces inside. Don't over engineer it.
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
Regular "high speed" drill bits for your pilot holes.
And "DWright".........What kind of braces did you find inside, if any?
I figured the curve of the door, and the rigidity of the liner made them both "self supporting" due to their shapes.
That said, I've not had an early fridge door apart in a LOT of years!
And "DWright".........What kind of braces did you find inside, if any?
I figured the curve of the door, and the rigidity of the liner made them both "self supporting" due to their shapes.
That said, I've not had an early fridge door apart in a LOT of years!
OP
OP
DWright
Member
Standard Drill bits for the pilot holes. I went and bought a pack of two step bits for the larger holes. I believe they cost $12 at Harbor Freight. If I remember correctly there is an X brace in there that runs corner to corner. The only other thing to take into consideration is the placement of the stem on the right if you are facing it. Most of these old fridges have an ice box/maker in the upper right. I used a short stem and 90 degree connection that enabled me to place that tap where it is.
Similar threads
