Element Wiring? Need some help.

So I am making a change to my set-up. My wife and I had a big discussion over the brewery set-up. I just don't have the cash to go all electric.

With that being the case, I am thinking of using one of the 5500 Watt 240V elements in my HLT.

Would I be able to wire a plug to the element, then plug it into a GFCI outlet that is wired to a dial/fan switch (to control the power of the element) and wire that to a 240 breaker?

Obviously I am not an electrician, so thanks for the help!

You will either need a 30a 240v GFCI breaker, or a non-GFCI breaker with a 30a 240v GFCI spa panel (usually less expensive).

For your "dial," you will want a PWM. There are many threads on here, including this one. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-show-us-how-221301/#post2594891

Or you could buy something pre-assembled, like this. http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Electric-Kettle-Controller-306p3084.htm

You may want to think about what you want for your "end game," so you can build with that in mind.

Thanks!

I want to be able to use my element for my HLT. I will use the HERMS method for the Mash and use a burner I already have for my BK. This is going to be my easiest/cheapest way to get into all-grain. I just figured since I already owned the elements, why not use them.

Any chance I could just wire it to a plug and use an outlet? Then just unplug it when I don't need it on?

I am really trying not to spend a lot on this electrical piece.

Thanks!

skepace said:

Any chance I could just wire it to a plug and use an outlet? Then just unplug it when I don't need it on?

I am really trying not to spend a lot on this electrical piece.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

You can, but there a couple of caveats. One is safety, as flipping a switch is preferable to pulling a 30a plug, particularly in a potentially wet environment. The other is control, as it will be very difficult to keep your HLT within a narrow temperature band.

Thanks for the help.

I will keep looking in the forums. I don't know if I can build a small control panel for this.

It costs a few bucks but pretty cheap http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Electric-Kettle-Controller-306p3084.htm

I'm sure you could DIY

I wonder where I might be able to find plans for something like this? Everything I find is for much larger control panels.

skepace said:

I wonder where I might be able to find plans for something like this? Everything I find is for much larger control panels.

Click to expand...

Did you read the thread from my first link?

I did and I think my mind is about to explode!!!!

Wondering if I could wire up the Auber PID with an SSR?

"I'd like to get into electric brewing, but I can't spend a lot of money" is kinda like saying, "I'd like to get into boating, but I can't spend a lot of money."

Yeah...those two things are just diametrically opposed to one another, in my opinion.

I share your pain, but my desire to brew inside is greater than my desire to not be poor.

Well, it's more that my wife will flip if it is very expensive to wire one element. Spending $300 on a control panel that isn't even digital is kinda crazy.

First: Consider putting the element in your kettle! IF you have a pump, heat your water up before hand and then pump to your HLT.

Second: You don't need a PID. Just a voltage controlled SSR and a potentiometer in your control panel to start. A master switch should be included based on contactor or a switch out of an old welder, but could maybe be omitted at first if you use the plug to connect/disconnect.

TomDaniels said:

First: Consider putting the element in your kettle! IF you have a pump, heat your water up before hand and then pump to your HLT.

Second: You don't need a PID. Just a voltage controlled SSR and a potentiometer in your control panel to start. A master switch should be included based on contactor or a switch out of an old welder, but could maybe be omitted at first if you use the plug to connect/disconnect.

Click to expand...

Why would I put it into the kettle? I have a propane burner to use for the kettle anyway. Building a two tier system is what I am going for.

you could do a very simple control box http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=143

a pid http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

a sse http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

a contactor http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130

and your choice of switches http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_32

would have to figure out your power in situation, kettle connectors, and some wire but generally speaking this is a 'simple', single element, single pid control box.

For you "dial" you could go with:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1pc-KYOTTO-A...830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6c16b306

theknub said:

you could do a very simple control box http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=143

a pid http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

a sse http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

a contactor http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130

and your choice of switches http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_32

would have to figure out your power in situation, kettle connectors, and some wire but generally speaking this is a 'simple', single element, single pid control box.

Click to expand...

Thank you so much! Looks like a much smaller version of what I was planning on building.

Don't forget the heat sink. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=77

Very true!

So I assume I could wire a temp probe so then I can set the temperature on the PID.

Right?

yes, you would need that, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=246

i got the deluxe version and have this installed on the thermometer port on my kettle.

you could also do it kal style on the output with this one and a T fitting http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249 (assuming you are recirculating)

Thanks guys for all of the help. I am putting together a parts list but have a couple of questions.

As much as I like Kal's build, I would like to hardwire the control box power cord to the box. Any ideas as how I can do that? Would the power cord go inside the box, clamp it down and then solder the wires inside to their correct positions?

Thanks.

I have my box hard-wired. Run the cable into the box through a secure means (something that clamps the cable to keep strain off the connections) and then terminate the wires to your device internally. I run a 240v panel, the two hot feeds go to the line side of my main power contactor and are secured with a screw terminal. The neutral and ground lines have crimped and soldered ring termianls, and go to their respective terminal blocks for distribution.

I wouldn't recommend soldering the supply cable to any component inside the box - if you screw up, need to modify it, or anything like that - it's easier to remove a screw terminal than it is to get the soldered connection free.

-Kevin