My 80/20 BIAB Stand with Pump and hoist

Big thanks to fortydegnorth for the idea to build this. Used scrap 80/20 and a boat winch from Harbor Freight. Pivots off to the side so i can let it drip and lower it for disposal. Used it yesterday for a 10 gallon Oberon clone, worked like a dream!

What are you using your pump for in your BIAB setup? Plate chiller?

I'd be using that pump for RIMS, that's what I'd be doing.... :rockin:

You both are right... I am using it now for my plate chiller but after trying to keep my temp constant, next up will be building a RIMS tube.

Great use of leftover parts! I'm curious as to how you got the "crane" to pivot.

That is what had me stumped for a while.. found this flanged bearing at Fastenal. Turned down a foot of 3/4"steel stock and inserted into the 1/2" channel in the 80/20. Strong as can be...

Awesome, thanks!

Verg said:

That is what had me stumped for a while.. found this flanged bearing at Fastenal. Turned down a foot of 3/4"steel stock and inserted into the 1/2" channel in the 80/20. Strong as can be...

Click to expand...

Could you get more pics of that for us?

Thanks,
-G

Looks good to me.

Verg said:

You both are right... I am using it now for my plate chiller but after trying to keep my temp constant, next up will be building a RIMS tube.

Click to expand...

I'm doing a similar system, except with me controlling the burner and the pump just providing the recirculation.

Verg said:

That is what had me stumped for a while.. found this flanged bearing at Fastenal. Turned down a foot of 3/4"steel stock and inserted into the 1/2" channel in the 80/20. Strong as can be...

Click to expand...

You should really put a 2nd bearing below the first at least 6" away to build a moment connection. That single ball bearing wont hold up to much abuse and could become dangerous if somebody decided to hang off it or something equally dumb. I'm sure it's also not sized for much radial thrust. You can probably build a thrust washer that rides on the casting and not the inner race with a couple couple washers and a short chunk of PVC pipe or some other short standoff depending on what sorts of tools you have access too.

Rueben said:

You should really put a 2nd bearing below the first at least 6" away to build a moment connection. That single ball bearing wont hold up to much abuse and could become dangerous if somebody decided to hang off it or something equally dumb. I'm sure it's also not sized for much radial thrust. You can probably build a thrust washer that rides on the casting and not the inner race with a couple couple washers and a short chunk of PVC pipe or some other short standoff depending on what sorts of tools you have access too.

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Sounds like you know what you are talking about Rueben... It is not as hokey as it looks, at least i hope not. Here is a shot of it underneath where it is mounted. So i have a foot of steel rod going into the 80/20... really tight. It goes to 3/4" Where it goes into the bearing. On that end i have it tapped and the bolt you see in the picture goes into it. Obviously i drilled through the brace that it is all bolted on to. Still think i need more? I have racked my brain on how to do this, but obviously i want it safe too.

HDIr0n, is this what you were wanting to see?

I'm a mechanical engineer I deal with lots of bearings and over-hung loads in foundries and such. If you have a 2nd bracket liken to the one you already used to mount the first bearing and you can run a piece of 80/20 below the upper chunk (the lower the better) and just make a mirror image of the bearing on top you'll gain all sorts moment. Bearings are only designed to take radial loads into the balls/rollers. Some tapered bearings can take moderate to very high thrust loads. But they are never really designed to take moment loads. Thus your attempting to twist the inner race around the outer race and the only thing holding it back is the tinny amount of contact area on the balls. It looks like a medium to light duty 3/4" bore set screw flange ball bearing. The plate you have running under the bearing does add some mechanical advantage in that some of the bending is eaten up in that plate depending on how tight the hole tolerances are. For the cost i would just add a 2nd bearing below the first the farther apart the better 6" min. PM me your email address and I can email you a sketch of what i'm describing.

Thanks, now I have a better idea on how it works.

I can see what Ruben is saying with the second flanged/mounted bearing and the weight from the wet grains or load on it!! that bearing should last a good long time as it is right now without anything done but the extruded aluminium will get loose sloppy adding more force on the center shaft!!