IIPA Dryhopping

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bmwwd6

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I recently bought an IIPA kit from AHS. The instructions say to dry hop for 7-10 days. I was going to let it sit a week in primary and then at least 1 1/2 months in secondary since its a bigger beer. My question is should I dry hop for this entire time in secondary? Will it hurt anything or give me vegetative flavors? Or should I add the hops to secondary after 1 1/2 months and then keg shortly there after?
 
I recently bought an IIPA kit from AHS. The instructions say to dry hop for 7-10 days. I was going to let it sit a week in primary and then at least 1 1/2 months in secondary since its a bigger beer. My question is should I dry hop for this entire time in secondary? Will it hurt anything or give me vegetative flavors? Or should I add the hops to secondary after 1 1/2 months and then keg shortly there after?

I would never age a double IPA, an IPA, or even a pale ale. Just put in the dry hop on day 24, let it go 4 days or so, and then keg it.
 
What dry hopping method you use really boils down to preference. Some people dry hop their beers for 2-3 weeks. I personally feel that you get grassy flavors after 10 days. I generally dry hop for 7 days and then bottle. Also, you can dry hop in secondary or primary, it doesn't matter.

Vegan is right though, never age an IPA. The hop flavor fades with age.
 
On a semi-related topic:

I found out yesterday that using pellet hops is considerably more practical when dry hopping. I brewed a IIPA (Pliny the Elder) which calls for a ridiculous amount of hops in the brewing and dry-hopping process. Some, but not all, of my hops were 'leaf'. This made for a partial disaster when trying to rack to the bottling bucket. The black 'nub' on the end of the racking cane got jammed with hops, then fell off into the secondary carboy. Decided to forge ahead I ended up with enough leafy hops in the bottling bucket to jam the spigot. I sanitized my hand and dislodged the blockage 'manually'. Was definitely a lot more challenging than bottling my few previous batches that had no leafy dry hopping.

Perhaps in beer calling for lesser quantities of hops it's not a problem, but this being my first AG recipe, and first encounter with dry hopping with leafy hops, I will definitely choose pellets when available for dry hopping from now on.
 
It is a big beer yes, but extended aging is more for beers with a heavy malt backbone. Not only does flavor and hop aroma fade with age but so do your ibus.
 
On a semi-related topic:

I found out yesterday that using pellet hops is considerably more practical when dry hopping. I brewed a IIPA (Pliny the Elder) which calls for a ridiculous amount of hops in the brewing and dry-hopping process. Some, but not all, of my hops were 'leaf'. This made for a partial disaster when trying to rack to the bottling bucket. The black 'nub' on the end of the racking cane got jammed with hops, then fell off into the secondary carboy. Decided to forge ahead I ended up with enough leafy hops in the bottling bucket to jam the spigot. I sanitized my hand and dislodged the blockage 'manually'. Was definitely a lot more challenging than bottling my few previous batch







es that had no leafy dry hopping.

Perhaps in beer calling for lesser quantities of hops it's not a problem, but this being my first AG recipe, and first encounter with dry hopping with leafy hops, I will definitely choose pellets when available for dry hopping from now on.



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I haven't tried it yet but I bought this because I ran into the same problem with whole hops. I plan on putting on the end of my auto syphon to keep the leafs away
 
The 1 gallon paint strainer bags work great on then end of my auto siphon. Cheap at hardware store and the holes seem to be a bit smaller than those lint traps, but I might not be seeing the pic well on my phone.
 
I always dry hop a full 2 weeks then keg. Idk, you may want to go shorter if you are going to bottle?
 
The 1 gallon paint strainer bags work great on then end of my auto siphon. Cheap at hardware store and the holes seem to be a bit smaller than those lint traps, but I might not be seeing the pic well on my phone.

I tried this but the bag sucked into the syphon and stopping it. The holes are definitely not as small, so I don't think it would work well with pellets but I should work fine with whole cones. At least I hope so
 
I tried this but the bag sucked into the syphon and stopping it. The holes are definitely not as small, so I don't think it would work well with pellets but I should work fine with whole cones. At least I hope so

Yeah it looks like they would be fine for whole hops. Do u have the black cap for the end of your siphon?
 
Yes I do. But You gave me an idea. How about using the lint catcher and then putting the paint strainer bag around it for pellet hops. The lint catcher is stiffer so it should act like an exoskeleton
 
Yes I do. But You gave me an idea. How about using the lint catcher and then putting the paint strainer bag around it for pellet hops. The lint catcher is stiffer so it should act like an exoskeleton

Melikes! Good thinking. Let us now if that works well, would be good for others to know for sure. Good luck!

Also, hope I didn't insult with the black cap question, remember reading a thread somewhere where a brewer had clogging issues without it.
 
I dry hopped in my secondary (day 21/22) for a week. Than bottled right away. Turned out delicious. I have also heard about dry hopping to long depositing very grassy flavours, your call have some fun with it!
 
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