Leaving CO2 tank on

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Redhawk

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Nashville,
Just got into kegging; burned through one tank already in four days (must have had a leak somewhere...)

After getting ripped on at the welding shop, I checked for leaks using soapy water, and then went so far as to submerge all my parts, keg included, to see if there were any bubbles. We have no leaks that I can tell so a couple general questions:

- Should I leave the CO2 tank on when not around? Once my beer is carbed up, should I turn the tank off just to be sure that I don't waste gas until I get more comfortable with my setup?

- I've read that the main gauge on my regulator (taprite) is essentially worthless. Is this true both at room temp and in the fridge? It looks like I've lost about 100 psi today, but that happened instantly when I knocked over the CO2 tank pulling the keg out of the tub.

- Do I need to check for leaks constantly or can I be convinced after the submersion test?

Thanks!
:mug:
 
Something is wrong if you burn a tank in 4 days. You do have a leak, regardless of if you can find it or not.

Yes, you leave the tank of and it won't waste gas unless you have a leak, in which case you have a problem. The main gauge really is pretty worthless, you either have CO2 or it's empty.
 
Wouldn't a leak show in the submersion test? I was pumping 30 psi in when everything was underwater and all was calm. I exchanged cylinders when I refilled. Maybe I didn't have a good seal between the tank and regulator? What would you do in my shoes? Thanks for the help.
 
I imagine you did not submerge the tank and regulator, so that's a great place to start looking for your problem. First thing is to shut off the gas tank, remove the regulator, and see if you forgot to install a gasket between the regulator coupler and the tank valve. That's a common cause of prodigious gas loss.

As for disconnecting gas from kegs: no need, as long as you have a tight system. Removing a gas QD from a keg requires the gas post poppet to seal; with the QD in place you don't even need a poppet, but then the post O-ring had better be doing its job.

Finally, once you've debugged your gas system (and everything that connects to it) you don't need to constantly test. Fwiw, I have two CO2 systems, one running a six keg keezer, the other running a four keg carbing/cold-conditioning fridge. I always have any kegs within either hooked up to gas. I did extensive leak testing as I put each system together, but have never done any more testing since. They are highly reliable, such that I won't change anything when my wife drags me off to Italy for the next two weeks...

Cheers!
 
Believe it or not, I did submerge the tank and regulator. I kept the dials out of the water because I didn't know if they were safe to submerge. I checked before I hooked up my regulator, and I do have a good wide o-ring (or is it a gasket if it's wide?) between my regulator and tank.

What other test would you do before you start carbing again? I forgot to mention that my tank is only 4#, but from what I've read on here that should last plenty of kegs. Thanks for the help!
 
If I suspect a leaky keg I'll pressurize it and then disconnect. Let it sit overnight and see if it holds pressure. If it does not then you know where your leak is. When I first set up my kegging system I did find a few leaks so be sure to check everything. I would suggest hooking up one line and testing it before moving on. When I hook up a new keg I'll pressurize it and check for leaks.
 
Here are a few other things to try:

If your regulator has a gas shut-off valve, close it, set the regulator to 30 psi, then close the tank valve. The low pressure gauge should read 30 psi pretty much indefinitely. If it drops, there's a leak somewhere inside or threaded into the regulator.

Otoh, if it holds, connect a gas line with a QD attached, open the gas valve, briefly open the tank to charge everything back up to 30 psi, then close the tank. The gauge should maintain 30 psi, again, pretty much indefinitely. If it drops, either the QD is leaking or the connection at one end of the gas line or the other isn't tight.

If everything is still good, connect the QD to an empty keg, seal up the lid, turn on the gas, wait for everything to reach equilibrium, then wiggle the gas QD on the post with your good ear in the general vicinity. The QD should remain gas-tight even if you give it a good wiggle. If it leaks, change the post O-ring.

And use keg lube on everything...

Cheers!
 
All of these are great suggestions; my keg is currently full of beer. Should I transfer back into the secondary, perform all of the checks listed above, and then keg? Most of these tests, aside form the regulator test, will not tell me much as the flat beer will absorb the CO2 fairly readily. Or should I perform the test at room temp where the beer won't absorb? Thanks!
 
Not to hijack the thread but have a similar question. New to kegging and just converted my mini fridge. I was gifted a 2.5# CO2 tank and am serving a 1/6 barrel this coming weekend. I wanted to get tap it Friday night but majority of the people are coming on Sunday. So....

If I tap Friday, will it still be fresh on Sunday assuming I keep the CO2 on? Will 2.5# of CO2 be enough for the whole weekend if I keep on?

...or am I better off just tapping it on Sunday.
 
CO2 by definition will not oxidize beer. Keg systems are meant to be put on gas and left there for extended periods. It takes me a month or so to nurse a 5 gal keg to empty. My gas is on the entire time. Never damages the beer. Actually, being on CO2 seems to be better for the beer as there is no question about whether the yeast over/under carb the beer when on gas since you don't add more sugar to the beer, usually, when you keg.
 
Sounds like I would be fine with beer quality AND tapping on Friday. Thanks for the information.
 
One point about your testing underwater, depending on your set up, your hoses and such could twist in such a way to open a very small leak around one of the barbs in the keggerator. I turn off my gas when not in use (usually). My piece of mind and the Murphy's law experience that when I need to carbonate a new beer, my CO2 tank occassionally empties overnight.
 
Rookie mistake.

Never tell the guys at the welding shop you're back so soon because you missed a leak on your system. It is always because you threw one HELL of a party!
:ban::rockin::tank::mug:
 
Back
Top