American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Whoops,
I brewed a batch of this in late January. Moved it to Secondary and dryhops on February 19th....life happened, a promotion at work, and the resulting long hours. I finally bottled it tonight!

The sample tastes great...as expected after a 35 day dryhop with 1oz of Amarillo & 1 oz of Simcoe....the amarillo is pretty potent...truly grapefruit aroma and flavor. I'm sure that will mellow over the next 3 weeks as the bottles condition.

Now I hope I can find time to bottle the other 3 batches in the fermentation closet. After 7+ weeks in primary they should be ready to bottle!
 
I just brewed this yesterday using the extract recipe. Had to substitue one hop due my LHBS not having it. Used Wyeast Golden Ale and it was fermenting just a few hours after putting in the yeast. Had to put a blow off tube on this morning. Going away so this will be sitting in the primary for two weeks and then will dry hop. Can't wait for this one.

CP
 
I made 10 gallons of this yesterday, and pitched WLP001 in one and Wyeast 1450 in the other. The WLP001 is fermenting already, at 63 degrees. The 1450 (Dennys) is just getting ready to start. It is also at 63 degrees.

I'll try to remember to update this, with the results from the Denny's yeast strain as I don't think I've ever used that strain in an IPA and it's definitely an unusual choice!
 
I made 10 gallons of this yesterday, and pitched WLP001 in one and Wyeast 1450 in the other. The WLP001 is fermenting already, at 63 degrees. The 1450 (Dennys) is just getting ready to start. It is also at 63 degrees.

I'll try to remember to update this, with the results from the Denny's yeast strain as I don't think I've ever used that strain in an IPA and it's definitely an unusual choice!

I'd love to know how this turns out. I brew a lot of ipas and usually use US 05 or 001 depending on whtat I have around. I brewed a porter last month with 1450 and saved a couple yeast samples from the starter so your results will make my decision easy...
 
Wow this fermented quick..is that common for this. I used 1056 and it was a full smack pack. Started bubbling about two hours later, had to put in a blowoff tube and little over 24 hours and still bubbling..
 
Only one case of this left. I think I'm going to give it another shot this weekend while the weather warms. I'm thinking of an 8g batch this time. Bravo instead of warrior (turned out great last time), and aromatic instead of TF amber (too expensive to get). Sure it won't be spot on, but its darn close and one good beer. I'd like to stick pineapples or apricots in 3 out of the 8 gallons for a little testing (maybe my own aprihop eh?).
 
Mojzis said:
Only one case of this left. I think I'm going to give it another shot this weekend while the weather warms. I'm thinking of an 8g batch this time. Bravo instead of warrior (turned out great last time), and aromatic instead of TF amber (too expensive to get). Sure it won't be spot on, but its darn close and one good beer. I'd like to stick pineapples or apricots in 3 out of the 8 gallons for a little testing (maybe my own aprihop eh?).

Sounds good for apricot let me know how it turns out.
 
I suggest trying Wyeast 1187 for the DF 60. I'm sampling a different brew that used 1187 and there is a similarity in tastes although the grain bill is not the same as Yooper post.
 
After 3 weeks in primary mine came down to 1.013 from 1.061 with one pack of S04 mashed at 148. No yeasty off flavors that I can tell, I'm happy.
 
I'm nearly-new at brewing, trying yooper's recipe with friends this month, but one big change. I am one of the few who haven't bought into the IPA thing; it always comes across too harsh for my palate.

So, we're pushing the entire hop bill to FWH-don't hate on me yet. Even the dryhop ones, we'lre putting in at the end of the mash (not yet decided if we can pull off all-grain), and leave the hops in until gas-off. In theory, with enough pre-boil exposure, the flavor and aroma components should complex with the malts and sugars to prevent them from boiling off, but the bitterness should come across since it'll be there the whole boil (contemplating a 90min boil, but at least 60).

we're going to brew a double-batch and split at gas-off for two separate fermenters. one will get whirlpool hopped with 1oz amarillo, the other won't. depending on a taste-test going into secondary, it may get dry-hopped with 1oz amarillo.

warrior not available, I'm thinking columbus instead?

biggest pot is 32qt aluminum, so I should be able to brew/boil 24-28qt of wort, but this is about 1qt/lb in the all-grain recipe...will my OG suffer much? planning to bring each fermenter up to 20-22qt using boiled/cooled water during cooling process.

Last thought: I'm also curious about the 'small beer' concept, and we have a 5g (not 6.5) fermenter as spare, so we're going to take the grain and re-mash/boil it for a second batch to try this out. this is a nearly-free experiment, but I'll presumably want some form of bittering as there'll still be some sugar...any suggestions?
 
Agreed. Hop flavor and aroma will boil off, leaving only the buttering alpha acids.

I think your plan will accomplish the opposite of what you want.
 
Hello all. First Post. Been registered and reading for awhile. Alot of great info. Thanks folks.

Was looking at using this recipe to clone DFH60IPA and recently picked up a sixer of this great beer (haven't had it in awhile). The aroma that I am getting has a distinct onion/garlic smell along with the citrus. This obviously wouldn't be accurate with the Amarillo, but maybe the Simcoe?? I am pretty new to homebrewing (couple years) and never brewed a batch with Simcoe. But from what I have read it is typically more piney?? Am I getting the onion-esque aroma from the Simcoe?? Thoughts?


I have made an All Amarillo Ale twice and both times have gotten a faint onion aroma when it was still young. After a few weeks I couldn't detect it anymore.
 
To the people who say I'm not going to get a smoother bitterness: have you actually brewed like this before, or are you assuming? Everytime I've read about someone doing this (though it seems rare), they've been thrilled with the results. I have read a few comments that it wasn't 'as hoppy' as they wanted, but I got the impression that they were upset that the bitterness was smoother. besides, dryhopping should add plenty of aroma if it's lacking when I rack it.

I'm getting the feeling that 98% of people just assume that there'll be no flavor/aroma left, but the ones who've actually tried it found that they had plenty.

really hoping to know if my 1qt/lb is a bad idea-I'll have to do the extract recipe if 1qt/lb won't work (10g batch)
 
Yes, it's called "First Wort Hop" and it makes the bittering additions "smoother" compared to adding the bittering hops after the wort is already boiling. I've used FWH and I do think it works.
That being said, you're still boiling the hops for the entire 60 minutes and all of the flavor and aroma will be gone at the end of the boil.
FWH is technique for bittering additions, not flavor and aroma - those still have to come from late additions and whirlpool/steeping and dry hopping.

Even if using FWH, you're going to be adding a larger bittering addition at the beginning than the recipe calls for. So even the "smoother" bittering profile might come out more harsh than simply adding the Warrior at 60 and saving the Amarillo and Simcoe for later additions.

You're welcome to try it, brewing is all experimentation. But DFH 60/90 is all about the holy goodness of the Simcoe & Amarillo blend, and I'm afraid you're just going to boil it all away
 
TriggerFingers said:
I have made an All Amarillo Ale twice and both times have gotten a faint onion aroma when it was still young. After a few weeks I couldn't detect it anymore.

Yeah, just finishing up my first batch of this that I brewed and damn, it was good. Didn't get the oniony aroma that I got that once from the real thing (have had several since then). I kinda liked the smell to be honest, it was different. May try an all Amarillo sometime. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Hola Brew Duderinos and Dudettes,
First time poster, long time lurker on the boards. I really want to brew the All-Grain clone of DFH 60 (most likely will go with Yooper's recipe). Here's my question:

I boil my all-grain brews indoors. I live in apartment and burning propane outside is not an option (unfortunately). Only way I can get a decent boil is by splitting it. So basically, run off everything into a bucket after the mash and sparge, mix well, check gravity, split equal into two 5 gallon pots, split hops accordingly, carry on as usual.

Now, I think my beers have come out pretty fine this way as far as hop utlization. However, I've never done an IPA this way.Does anyone think it would work if I did this with the continuous hopping method? So I'm thinking I just do the same thing as the other brews, except split my hops, continuously hop EACH boil kettle, and then mix into one fermenter. Obviously hop utilization is more critical in an IPA. So any issues I may be running into, in anyone's opinion?

Thanks!:rockin:
 
Hola Brew Duderinos and Dudettes,
First time poster, long time lurker on the boards. I really want to brew the All-Grain clone of DFH 60 (most likely will go with Yooper's recipe). Here's my question:

I boil my all-grain brews indoors. I live in apartment and burning propane outside is not an option (unfortunately). Only way I can get a decent boil is by splitting it. So basically, run off everything into a bucket after the mash and sparge, mix well, check gravity, split equal into two 5 gallon pots, split hops accordingly, carry on as usual.

Now, I think my beers have come out pretty fine this way as far as hop utlization. However, I've never done an IPA this way.Does anyone think it would work if I did this with the continuous hopping method? So I'm thinking I just do the same thing as the other brews, except split my hops, continuously hop EACH boil kettle, and then mix into one fermenter. Obviously hop utilization is more critical in an IPA. So any issues I may be running into, in anyone's opinion?

Thanks!:rockin:

Sure, that would work just fine.
 
To the people who say I'm not going to get a smoother bitterness: have you actually brewed like this before, or are you assuming? Everytime I've read about someone doing this (though it seems rare), they've been thrilled with the results. I have read a few comments that it wasn't 'as hoppy' as they wanted, but I got the impression that they were upset that the bitterness was smoother. besides, dryhopping should add plenty of aroma if it's lacking when I rack it.

I'm getting the feeling that 98% of people just assume that there'll be no flavor/aroma left, but the ones who've actually tried it found that they had plenty.

really hoping to know if my 1qt/lb is a bad idea-I'll have to do the extract recipe if 1qt/lb won't work (10g batch)

I don't know who "the ones who've actually tried it found that they had plenty" are, but in my experience FWH works great, but in conjunction with plenty of late hops as well. It does leave behind a smoother bitterness, but not hops aroma or flavor. I'm fairly confident of my assessment, but if you don't believe us it's worth a try for yourself.
 
This may have been asked but...

How do you calculate IBUs when continuously hopping using mixed hop varieties? With one hop you can painstakingly evenly divide all the additions and enter them minute for minute into Beersmith. But I dont understand how to figure it out when you mix them. Unless you divide all the additions equally by weight then weigh out half of each hop for each addition. Which would be a royal PITA!!! Someone tell me theres an easier way to figure this out
 
That's basically what I did in iBrewmaster, but in 5 minute intervals. Came out to 61.59 IBU's.
 
This may have been asked but...

How do you calculate IBUs when continuously hopping using mixed hop varieties? With one hop you can painstakingly evenly divide all the additions and enter them minute for minute into Beersmith. But I dont understand how to figure it out when you mix them. Unless you divide all the additions equally by weight then weigh out half of each hop for each addition. Which would be a royal PITA!!! Someone tell me theres an easier way to figure this out

Guestimated, that's all. IBU calculation is a guess at best anyway, but in this case I just split it up into 20/15/10/5/0 additions and used that as the calculation.
 
Yooper said:
Guestimated, that's all. IBU calculation is a guess at best anyway, but in this case I just split it up into 20/15/10/5/0 additions and used that as the calculation.

Ok thanks. I didn't know if there was a formula or a way to do it or what.
 
Ok thanks. I didn't know if there was a formula or a way to do it or what.

Oh, there is, but I'm not a patient sort who would put in 3 ounces of hops in 1 minute intervals over the whole boil time.

I think that my good brewing friend, an engineer, probably would though! :D
 
Just took a hydro sample from my extract brew. At 10 days it already tastes amazing with no carbonation and my 1056 (with starter obviously) took this bad boy down to 1.012!! Can't wait to see how good it is after a bit more diacetyl clean up, some dry hopping and proper kegging :D
 
Brewed my very first batch of beer a few weeks ago, this was it. Bottled Saturday, sample tasted SO good. Very excited for a carbed one. Thanks much for a great recipe.:mug:
 
Hey Yooper, around how long does it take for this to carb in bottles? Also, how you liking this weather the past few days? Houghton is a snowy swamp right now.
 
Hey Yooper, around how long does it take for this to carb in bottles? Also, how you liking this weather the past few days? Houghton is a snowy swamp right now.

It's carbed up in a couple of weeks for me, but I've been kegging most of the batches now. I'm actually drinking a glass of this brew right now, from the tap.

The weather stinks!!!! When I looked outside last evening and saw yet more snow, I almost cried. By this time last year, we had our boat dock in and the boat in the water, and this year I can't even walk across my deck. Way too much snow for me, and for way too long!
 
Yooper said:
It's carbed up in a couple of weeks for me, but I've been kegging most of the batches now. I'm actually drinking a glass of this brew right now, from the tap.

The weather stinks!!!! When I looked outside last evening and saw yet more snow, I almost cried. By this time last year, we had our boat dock in and the boat in the water, and this year I can't even walk across my deck. Way too much snow for me, and for way too long!

I'm telling you Yoop, anytime you wanna trade lol. It was 92 all day today, with humidity it felt like 100.
On a totally different note while continuing to be off topic.... Having read about how fast you go from grain to glass I was inspired and got my most recent batch of IPA from grain to glass in 11 days!!!
 
Mine was well carbed in 2 weeks, and drinkably? carbed in a week, but obviously is better now 3 weeks in and a week in the fridge.
 
I made the all grain version of this over the winter ... it was EASY to cool cuz we had a cold snap here in Arizona and I could cool it outside with some ice or what not. thinking of trying the extract version due to loss of efficiency coming from a poor grain crush at my lHBS... can I use the same amount of hops from the all grain version in the extract version if I do a full boil???
 
I made the all grain version of this over the winter ... it was EASY to cool cuz we had a cold snap here in Arizona and I could cool it outside with some ice or what not. thinking of trying the extract version due to loss of efficiency coming from a poor grain crush at my lHBS... can I use the same amount of hops from the all grain version in the extract version if I do a full boil???

Yep, with a full boil the hop schedule stays the same.
 
Kegged on Sunday and pulled a pint last night. It definitely needs some time to mellow, but it's very enjoyable right now. The nose is stunning. It smells like fresh apricots. Right now it's not much like DFH 60, but I'm very pleased with the outcome.
 
Kegged today. Made on 3/29. I went straight from the fermentor to the keg and am seeing a lot of flakes from the dry hop. Will this keep happening and if not how long until they settle out?
 
Kegged today. Made on 3/29. I went straight from the fermentor to the keg and am seeing a lot of flakes from the dry hop. Will this keep happening and if not how long until they settle out?

I've never had flakes from dryhopping, when I rack from the fermenter to the keg. I guess if you have a lot of hops in the beer than they will be around for a while. I normally rack to the keg, and don't transfer hops, and have a clear beer right away.
 
Well I dry hopped with a full 2 oz. which may have something to do with it. Maybe next time I should use a muslin bag. Is that what you typically do?
 
Well I dry hopped with a full 2 oz. which may have something to do with it. Maybe next time I should use a muslin bag. Is that what you typically do?

Me? No. I never use bags. But I'm an old winemaker and very proficient with racking, so I don't ever have a problem with racking and not sucking up hops debris. If you do, maybe hops bags would help.
 
I brewed this yesterday, my first extract brew. only deviation was adding more water to the wort that I really should have and ended up with a OG of 1062, so about 7.something%. Thanks for all the tips I've gathered from reading this tread and the original recipe! Needless to say, I'm really looking forward to trying this brew :D
 
Some people put a mesh bag over the end of the siphon to help keep from racking anything over. You could maybe give that a try. I have a big nylon cheese cloth that I use to line my keg/bottling bucket. This way once I'm done transferring the beer over anything that I don't want gets filtered out when I pull out the cheese cloth.
 
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