Stc 1000 question !

CornyKegs 728
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matc

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I followed this diagram for my temp controller build. I broke the metal tab on the hot side only of the outlet and wired everything. Now, when I set the temp cooler than the actual temp, nothing happens. As I don't have a multimeter, I used a lamp and it won't turn in both sockets.

Same thing happens if i raise the temp instead

Any ideas ?

STC-1000_outlet_wiring_zps6695057b.jpg
 
Is there a way to check this out with a multimeter ? And yes the display functions properly !
 
The anti-short-cycle function comes defaulted to 3 minutes (setting F3), so you'll have to wait 'til that expires for outputs to energize...

Cheers!
 
Well it's been plugged in for an hour now and it's still not working
 
Ugh. That doesn't sound good.

Your wiring diagram is perfect. About the only things that could screw this up are a bad probe or an NFG controller. If you're getting a reasonable reading on the probe channel, it sounds like the latter...

Cheers!
 
Yes the probe gives me a temperature of 68 F which sounds good
 
Total Hail Mary: unplug the controller from the power source, and check all four wires under the hot side nut are actually connected. Otherwise I'm out of ideas...

Cheers!
 
Day tripper, there are only 2 wires on my hot side...are you sure there should be 4 ?
 
I was looking at your diagram, showing four wire ends under the hot side nut.
If you only had two, how are you making all of the connections per your diagram?

Cheers!
 
Well I've got the heating (number 6) plugged into the left brass screw and the cooling (number 8) into the right brass screw. That's all. I will post a pic when I'll come back from work !
 
oops you meant the plastic wire nut ! So yes there are four hot wires joined together
 
Are you wiring this up with 120 or 240V? Check which model of the stc1000 you have. If you wire the 240V model up to 120V it will power up and show the display but not have enough grunt to kick the relays over.
 
mattd2 said:
are you wiring this up with 120 or 240v? Check which model of the stc1000 you have. If you wire the 240v model up to 120v it will power up and show the display but not have enough grunt to kick the relays over.
Click to expand...
What he said.
 
Also, this may be a silly question, but what set point are you using in temperature? If the set point is identical to the ambient in the room, it won't kick on either relay until the swing differential occurs (either it gets hotter or cooler in your testing room). Choose an extreme number for your testing. 5C or 40C for example.
 
All right guys, here's an update : I removed all the wires and started over but this time, I didn't use the heating outlet on the stc. It works perfectly as it is and I don't need a heater in my fermentation chamber anyway !
 

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