Auberin vs. Lightobject PID, SSR, heatsinks, etc.

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BigFloyd

BigFloyd

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Howdy.

I'm excited to be getting ready to make the jump into E-Brewing (thanks to all of the excellent info here and PJ's awesome schematics). I'm going to head over to a brew buddy's house Saturday to help him brew a batch on his single vessel E-BIAB rig. I'm sure that, after seeing how it compares to my normal 5.5 hr mash tun AG and propane brew day, I'm going to want to start ordering parts soon.

I've been planning out a single vessel (15.5g keggle), recirculating 240V/5500W E-BAIB build based on what others here have been using. A question came to mind today as I was poking around looking at components. I have had my build spec'd out to use the Auberin SYL-2352 PID, Auberin SSR-40A and matching heat sink. Together those three bits run about $83.

A comparable PID, 40A SSR and heat sink from Lightobject (via Amazon, where they get good reviews) total up to $50. Does anyone here use these? Any problems? Are they worth seriously considering in place of the Auberin stuff?

Also, does anyone use these kind of lighted SPDT push-button switches in their panel? http://www.lightobject.com/Blue-SPDT-Push-Button-Toggle-Switch-w-light-P533.aspx Any thoughts?

Thanks!:mug:
 
Lightobject have been around a while. They are an American based distributor for products sourced in China.

The consensus round here is that the Auber PIDs justify the price tag but the markup on some of their other products, SSRs in particular, looks very steep. Fotek PIDs are absolutely fine at 25% of the price and are used and reccommended by pro panel builders like Swede Olsson.

That switch will work fine on a 240V panel but looks like it will a separate 24VDC suppply for the LED.
 
I think your major difference is that the Auber PID you are looking at supports Manual Mode. This allows you to set the element to a % of power, the end result is similar to turning the knob on your stove to control heat.
 
Thanks guys. Looks like I'll go with the Auberin PID and possibly the Fotek SSR/sink. I do want the option of manual mode.

Another newbie question if you don't mind - would you suggest going with the temp sensor here: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=85 (with the deluxe cable and panel mount connector) or something like what they use on the High Gravity system (looks like a thermocouple-type probe in a t-connection)?
 
theknub said:
auber has npt RTD sensors as well that fit in a T http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249

or just a straight 4" http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=246 (they even have an 8")

i personally went with the deluxe because I didn't want to be messing with heat shrinking, wrapping wire, etc. two brews and seems great so far.
Click to expand...


Thanks.

Would you prefer the sensor that mounts through the side of the kettle or one that is installed in a T-connection on the recirculation tubing?

If the kettle-mount, 2" or 4" weldless?
 
i have two 4" in my thermometer npt port on my kettle. my 1.5 is on a T on the outlet of my mash tun.
 
Enough parts are now on order to at least get this build going, starting with the panel. I'm hoping to get it done in the next few weeks or so.

I went with Auberin for the PID, RTD 2" weldless temp sensor (with deluxe cable), contactor, lighted push button switches, e-stop, and lighted buzzer. The 40A SSR, heatsink, thermal paste, Camco ULWD 5500W heater element, game hoist (for the BIAB bag) and terminal blocks will be coming from Amazon.

This stuff is pretty interesting as you get deeper into it. I can't help but think that my dad, who was an electrical draftsman/designer for 38 years (after coming home from WWII) and passed away many years ago, would be rather pleased that I'm doing this kind of project.
 

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