Help with Water Profile (this is bad)

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PintoBean

Hailstorm Brewing Co
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Is this water even treatable? Or am I better off continuing to buy RO and add salts?

pH 7.5
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 1044
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 1.74
Cations / Anions, me/L / 19.5 19.4
ppm
Sodium, Na 111
Potassium, K 4
Calcium, Ca 161
Magnesium, Mg 77
Total Hardness, CaCO3 723
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 103 (x3=309 to get Sulfate, right?)
Chloride, Cl 215
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 423
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 347
Total Phosphorus, P 0.55
Total Iron, Fe 0.81 (everything in my house is ORANGE)
 
That looks like slurry pulled from the bottom of a quarry. Uh, yeah, you are done.

Stick with the RO and build up as needed.

Although, you may be able t pull a Burton profile out of that, if that is your thing.
 
It's a private well, I have a sediment filter and softener, but this water is pre filter and softener. Before I had the sediment filter the water was full of black silt.
 
My biggest issue is how do I get rid of the iron? Aside from expensive magnesium permagnate filters?

The sad part is, lake Michigan water is available to residents just a 1/4 mile East of me
 
The only way I am aware of to get rid of the iron is filtration.

I feel your pain as my well water is much like yours. So, the day before very brew day, I drive 30 miles to a natural spring. There, I stand in line to fill enough 5 gallon jugs for the next day's batch. I might get out in 30 minutes, it might take two hours....ya never know.

Have you tested your water after your filter and softener? It probably kicks up your Na even higher, but might reduce some of the other stuff.
 
The greensand/permanganate filter are the best but you can also oxidize Fe(II) to Fe(III) with, of all things, oxygen in the air. Try spraying the water through a nozzle which breaks it into a fine mist or bubbling compressed air through it (be sure to use an oil filter on your air line) or just splash it about. It may well turn grey or orange or brown. Then filter the water through a bed of clean playsand (from a home improvement store). This may or may not work for you but is certainly worth a try.
 
The greensand/permanganate filter are the best but you can also oxidize Fe(II) to Fe(III) with, of all things, oxygen in the air. Try spraying the water through a nozzle which breaks it into a fine mist or bubbling compressed air through it (be sure to use an oil filter on your air line) or just splash it about. It may well turn grey or orange or brown. Then filter the water through a bed of clean playsand (from a home improvement store). This may or may not work for you but is certainly worth a try.

Thanks for the advice...I'm going to have to do some experimenting
 
The only way I am aware of to get rid of the iron is filtration.

I feel your pain as my well water is much like yours. So, the day before very brew day, I drive 30 miles to a natural spring. There, I stand in line to fill enough 5 gallon jugs for the next day's batch. I might get out in 30 minutes, it might take two hours....ya never know.

Have you tested your water after your filter and softener? It probably kicks up your Na even higher, but might reduce some of the other stuff.

No, haven't tested after the filtet/softener, I read somewhere on here (I think it was advice of AJ's) to not brew with softened water because it strips calcium and magnesium and replaces them with sodium (or potassium if you use that in your softener).
 
Actually, AJ's post just made me realize something. I use my tap water to mix up starsan, and I usually soak my aeration stone in it, and burp some O2 through it before I go to aerate my cooled wort. I've noticed since I started doing that I get a layer of sediment on the bottom of my starsan bucket...it all makes sense now.
 
By far, my favored method for iron removal is using industrial strength sodium hypochorite (bleach). When searching literature, you'll see various predicted reaction times but trust me, it works almost instantly with adequate mixing. That will precipitate the iron but filtration would still be needed at that point, along with chlorine removal ideally.
 
By far, my favored method for iron removal is using industrial strength sodium hypochorite (bleach). When searching literature, you'll see various predicted reaction times but trust me, it works almost instantly with adequate mixing. That will precipitate the iron but filtration would still be needed at that point, along with chlorine removal ideally.

How much Sodium Hypochlorite would you need in 5 gallons of water to precipitate the iron?
 
Check out this calculator for some assistance:

http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/chlorined3.cgi

I input 0 mg/l initial chlorine and 1mg/L desired residual...which is false because you theoretically would end up at zero residual as the available chlorine will be used in the reaction to precipitate the iron. But if we do in fact use the 1:1 ratio of hypo to iron, then we can use your current iron concentration in the "desired" box. Although you stated an iron value of 0.81, I used 1.0 instead to account for some slight upward variance in your iron level. This should then leave little chlorine residual leftover. In fact, most DPD chlorine test kits would struggle to accurately measure down to that last 0.2 mg/l of residual on a repeated and accurate basis. ORP might be a better bet. But what you'd ideally need to do is measure the iron after the dosing which requires a spectrophotometer and the associated reagents. If you can get an inside track with your local area water plant, they might do that test for you.

So anyway, I set the output for mL and that value ends up being 0.13144 mL. How much is that? Essentially 2 drops from your run of the mill eyedropper. :)

Dang, that link isn't going to work so instead go here:

http://www.handymath.com/calculators.html

And then scroll all the way down to the bottom and click on the link titled "calculator for water disinfection using 12.5% sodium hypochlorite solution". Then you'll see what I mean about the input variables I mentioned above.
 
I used a tank, a fleck back-wash head and pyrolox/filox media to remove iron. worked great, took it all with me when I moved.....don't need it where I am....arg.
 
Check out this calculator for some assistance:

http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/chlorined3.cgi

I input 0 mg/l initial chlorine and 1mg/L desired residual...which is false because you theoretically would end up at zero residual as the available chlorine will be used in the reaction to precipitate the iron. But if we do in fact use the 1:1 ratio of hypo to iron, then we can use your current iron concentration in the "desired" box. Although you stated an iron value of 0.81, I used 1.0 instead to account for some slight upward variance in your iron level. This should then leave little chlorine residual leftover. In fact, most DPD chlorine test kits would struggle to accurately measure down to that last 0.2 mg/l of residual on a repeated and accurate basis. ORP might be a better bet. But what you'd ideally need to do is measure the iron after the dosing which requires a spectrophotometer and the associated reagents. If you can get an inside track with your local area water plant, they might do that test for you.

So anyway, I set the output for mL and that value ends up being 0.13144 mL. How much is that? Essentially 2 drops from your run of the mill eyedropper. :)

Dang, that link isn't going to work so instead go here:

http://www.handymath.com/calculators.html

And then scroll all the way down to the bottom and click on the link titled "calculator for water disinfection using 12.5% sodium hypochlorite solution". Then you'll see what I mean about the input variables I mentioned above.

Sweet, thanks!
 
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