Drilling Holes in stainless steel mash paddle

I just ordered a 60 inch stainless mash paddle from Amazon (for only $24!!!) for my new half barrel setup and would like opinions on two things.

1. What do I use to drill the holes (step drill, drill bit, etc)
2. What size holes should I drill to keep it uniform?

Here is the link for the mash paddle..hurry! haha

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9ZGQK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Save $0.40 and you don't have to buy other stuff to get the free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9ZGQK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd use a conduit/chassis punch, maybe 1.25".

Depends how big u want them but if they are bigger then say 1/4 inch, go with the step bit and use an oil. I used olive oil for my holes in my keggle conversion. Worked well and smelled like i was cooking up some french fries.

I'd also use a punch to make alittle dimple where u are going to drill so the bit isn't sliding around. And since its a flat piece of stainless u may want to put a piece of word underneath and have someone hold it steady while u drill. Slow speed and consistent pressure are key to drilling stainless.

I do not know the gauge of the material but the stainless mash paddle I have (looks identical) is a bit thick. I would hazard a guess that a chassis punch might have trouble with it. I know my 1/2 conduit punch (7/8" dia. hole) has a bit of trouble on my kegs at times and my mash paddle is definitely thicker than a keg wall. A little bit larger punch like the 1 1/4" might have a bit more "meat" or strength to it though.

I would still probably go with a step bit, cutting oil, slow rpm's, and relatively heavy pressure on the bit. Hold the paddle securely in a vise or clamped to a sacrificial chunk of wood. When people go wrong drilling stainless it is generally from to high a cutting speed (rpm), to little pressure, and flexability/vibration from movement in the workpiece.

MrNatural said:

Save $0.40 and you don't have to buy other stuff to get the free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9ZGQK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd use a conduit/chassis punch, maybe 1.25".

Click to expand...

I have never used a chassis punch pardon my ignorance.. It looks like you need to drill a starter hole then use the punch to knock out a larger size hole? Do I need a special tool to use the punch or will a wrench work to adjust the tension?

Pratzie said:

Depends how big u want them but if they are bigger then say 1/4 inch, go with the step bit and use an oil. I used olive oil for my holes in my keggle conversion. Worked well and smelled like i was cooking up some french fries.

I'd also use a punch to make alittle dimple where u are going to drill so the bit isn't sliding around. And since its a flat piece of stainless u may want to put a piece of word underneath and have someone hold it steady while u drill. Slow speed and consistent pressure are key to drilling stainless.

Click to expand...

thanks for the tip..i am aware of the technique it takes to drill into stainless..i had some older stainless pots i installed ball valves on and it took a little getting used to for sure..just wasnt sure which way to go for punching out the hole in something like this..thanks for the reply

dubprocess said:

I have never used a chassis punch pardon my ignorance.. It looks like you need to drill a starter hole then use the punch to knock out a larger size hole? Do I need a special tool to use the punch or will a wrench work to adjust the tension?

Click to expand...

Three step process for me. 3/8" drill, first punch to fit the 1/2" shaft of next punch, final punch. You can use a wrench or socket, I used a cordless 1/2" impact and socket.
Some have stated their paddle might be two thick for comfortable punching.
Step bit in drill press w/lube, moderate pressure and low speed would be my choice in that case.

If I can remember to do so I will throw a micrometer or a set of calipers on my mash paddle when I get home. We can figure out the gauge of the material from that and give you a better answer on the punch.

That said if you do not already have a punch or have access to one you can borrow than that would be more expensive than a step bit. Yes you can use a regular wrench or socket on the punch if you decide to go that route. Some folks knock the cheap Chinese import step bits but if you use them right they are fine. I have drilled over 30 holes (7/8" dia.) in a dozen or so kegs with one cheap step bit from Harbor Freight. I use an actual cutting oil designed for stainless, also available from Harbor Freight, on my bit every time.

Be prepared for a long days work! These paddles are about 1.5 mm thick at the wide end. You are going to want to cut like 12+ holes in the paddle and that is going to suck!


On the bright side..after that many holes at low speed and high pressure....your going to want to drink a bunch of brews.

Just wandered out to my keggle project and did a comparison between the thickness of the mash paddle and the wall of one of the kegs. Looks to be pretty close.

FermentNEthinG said:

Be prepared for a long days work! These paddles are about 1.5 mm thick at the wide end. You are going to want to cut like 12+ holes in the paddle and that is going to suck!


On the bright side..after that many holes at low speed and high pressure....your going to want to drink a bunch of brews.

Click to expand...

haha should be fun times! i think i am going to go with the step bit route..i just need to take my time and be patient...

MidTNJasonF said:

If I can remember to do so I will throw a micrometer or a set of calipers on my mash paddle when I get home. We can figure out the gauge of the material from that and give you a better answer on the punch.

That said if you do not already have a punch or have access to one you can borrow than that would be more expensive than a step bit. Yes you can use a regular wrench or socket on the punch if you decide to go that route. Some folks knock the cheap Chinese import step bits but if you use them right they are fine. I have drilled over 30 holes (7/8" dia.) in a dozen or so kegs with one cheap step bit from Harbor Freight. I use an actual cutting oil designed for stainless, also available from Harbor Freight, on my bit every time.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have a step bit that I have used twice so far. It was a cheap one I got on Amazon. I have the oil already as well. I guess this will be the route I am taking...FML...going to take forever!

Hmmm or maybe Ill see if someone could punch this thing out at work.

I work as a network engineer at a manufacturing facility..gotta be something around there that would punch out the metal..haha

dubprocess said:

I work as a network engineer at a manufacturing facility..gotta be something around there that would punch out the metal..haha

Click to expand...

Buddy up to one of the guys in the maintenance department that keeps the machines and systems running. They are the ones likely to have the tools and the production line staff probably would not have time for you. I borrowed a conduit bender from our maintenance guy a few weeks ago. Better than buying one for a single job. He takes payment in six packs so it works out well for me.