DuckDogs -
HD is selling GE GFCI Spa Panels rated for 60amps for $72.45.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...053&langId=-1&keyword=spa+panel&storeId=10051
Protecting yourself is important and not to be left out of your build.
BRB parts run
DuckDogs -
HD is selling GE GFCI Spa Panels rated for 60amps for $72.45.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...053&langId=-1&keyword=spa+panel&storeId=10051
Protecting yourself is important and not to be left out of your build.
There is your problem. You have the out going neutral attached to the inbound neutral. It must be attached to the GFCI breaker.Up to the spa panel. Power is entering from the back. 6/4 SOOW is coming into the panel from the bottom and goes to the Control Panel.
Nice build thread. The din-rail and wire management looks great. I'm in the planning and gathering stage of my PID ebrew build. So this is my inspiration.
Also, I will be at the St. Louis Brewers Heritage Festival. Can't wait to sample the brew you made on the rig.
Cheers!
So I need some opinions:
I have a 2 tier, pyramidal type brew rig.
If I go with a HERMS setup I'd put the HEX in the HLT (up on the high shelf).
I would drain strike water from the HLT into the MLT,
Then recirculate the wort from the MLT pump it into the HEX in the HLT, then drain it back to the MLT. Are there extra cleaning issues to worry about?
If I go with a RIMS setup I do what I do now and drain from the MLT, to the pump, through the RIMS tube and back to the MLT.
A RIMS requires 3 elements - HLT (4500w), RIMS(2000w), & BK(4500w).
A HERMS requires 2 elements - HLT(5500w) and BK (5500w).
I brew 12 gallon batches, if I go with a RIMS, will I miss the 1000w I would have in the HLT and BK if I had a HERMS?
That looks quite similar to the one sitting in the St. Louis Wine and Beer Making shop.
Thank you for posting a very clear diagram
With a HERMS system you can not:
Simultaneously heat your sparge water to 168 and keep your mash temperature at 152.
Heat different mash steps in minutes.
RIMS is much less likely to overshoot your set point.
Yes you do need an extra element.
why not? i figure you can just turn the pump on and off to keep the mash temp constant while heating strike water.
I dont see that working very well... it defeats the whole point of precise temp control with a herms or rims..why not? i figure you can just turn the pump on and off to keep the mash temp constant while heating strike water.
The costs would be for heavier 6 gauge wire bigger breakers and more expensive outlets... plus the 6 awg wire is a lot harder to run or fish in existing walls so depending one ones setup the cost difference can be huge... I run a 4500wHLT , 5500w bk and 2000w rims off my 30a circuit with no issues... the 4500w can run simultaneously with my 2000w rims but the bk cannot... its also powers my 3 dc pumps and panel...I would go with as much power as you can afford. That being said, a 30A circuit can run two 5000 Watt elements with ease. Running three would be an issue. So, if you have two 5000 watt elements and want to run them at the same tiime without fear of a meltdown, get the 50A wiring and circuit. Hire a very qualified and licensed electrician and get a permit to wire it.
Like a previous post mentioned, you are future-proof at 50A. I think the only increase would be parts like wires and circuits.
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