Best clamps for tubing

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plumber8302

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I'm sure this has been addressed, but I can't find anything. What are the best clamps for liquid and gas tubing? I am gathering everything up to build a keezer and its one of the last items I need to purchase.
 
Oetiker or oetiker style ear clamps.
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I used automotive fuel injection hose clamps. I had a bunch in my tool box and they work great.They don't cut the hose and I think they are stainless.You can get them at most auto part stores.
 
There is a trick to removing them but the upside outweighs that. Once you learn how to remove them they are faster to remove then the screw type.
 
oetikers are terrible if you need to take them off again (i.e., cleaning, etc). These hose clamps that Bobby sells look excellent, though I haven't used them.

http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/145-clamp

Really? I don't like that they're single use, but they're faster and easier to install and remove than worm drive ones IMO. Bobby's look nice too, and aren't single use which is nice.
 
I'd like to know the trick and the upside.

Not really much of a trick, just use either side cutters or flat face cutters or the oetiker tool to get under the tab, then peel it off. For the style without the tab, just use your tool of choice to cut 90 degrees to how you'd tighten it, or you can also over tighten it and it will break off. The upsides are much more even 360 degree clamping, which means less chance for leaks, and no internal parts that mangle the tubing. The design Bobby's selling eliminates the internal part that can often damage the tubing, and provides more even pressure than a standard worm drive clamp.
 
Not really much of a trick, just use either side cutters or flat face cutters or the oetiker tool to get under the tab, then peel it off. For the style without the tab, just use your tool of choice to cut 90 degrees to how you'd tighten it, or you can also over tighten it and it will break off. The upsides are much more even 360 degree clamping, which means less chance for leaks, and no internal parts that mangle the tubing. The design Bobby's selling eliminates the internal part that can often damage the tubing, and provides more even pressure than a standard worm drive clamp.

Thanks Juan, but I've done that a LOT, and that's not a trick. With the soft silicone tubing, wrenching the clamp can cause damage. I've used these oetikers in medical machines, and I hate them. The only positive is that they are quick and easy to install and they never loosen.

But for the homebrewer who needs to occasionally remove clamps to clean, they are a poor choice. I'm going to stand by that.

I've used hose clamps that chewed the soft silicone tubing, and they are not great. But the Bobby_M clamp above is (IMO) the best choice for homebrewers.
 
Thanks Juan, but I've done that a LOT, and that's not a trick. With the soft silicone tubing, wrenching the clamp can cause damage. I've used these oetikers in medical machines, and I hate them. The only positive is that they are quick and easy to install and they never loosen.

But for the homebrewer who needs to occasionally remove clamps to clean, they are a poor choice. I'm going to stand by that.

I've used hose clamps that chewed the soft silicone tubing, and they are not great. But the Bobby_M clamp above is (IMO) the best choice for homebrewers.

I've used them a lot too, and rarely had to wrench on them enough to damage any tubing, but I see your point. The ones you linked look like a great option too. I still think standard oetikers are a much better option than worm drive clamps. And the only times I've removed my clamps was to replace the tubing.
 
Really no reason to remove them on the gas side and that is where they are best used. I also like using them on my cam lock fitting since the protrusion is smaller than the screw type and do not get in the way.
 
I've been using these kind on the beer line since they're cheap and easily removable and I can get them anywhere - anyone had bad experiences with them? I only noticed that they pop off at about 30 psi or higher on the gas side

tn375_bf-hose-splice-kit120408120552.jpg
 
Really no reason to remove them on the gas side and that is where they are best used. I also like using them on my cam lock fitting since the protrusion is smaller than the screw type and do not get in the way.

I agree worm clamps have led to many a leak for me on the gas side only and it's not because the worm clamp damaged the gas line, they tighten in an oval pattern and unevenly due to design. I am curious how the brewers hardware clamps get around that? It looks like a superior worm clamp, but a worm clamp none the less. Anyone have experience here? I need to get rid if my worm clamps ASAP!!
 
Is there a place to buy this tool to get these clamps on cheaper than 35 bucks?
 
On my iPad so it'd be clunky for me to look up, but I think Kal at theelectricbrewery.com recommends a worm clamp with rounded edges so it doesn't cut into the tubing. I've had issues with that on my IC (probably because the tubing gets soft), so those are on my short list of things to buy.
 
Is there a place to buy this tool to get these clamps on cheaper than 35 bucks?

My LHBS sells the tool clamping tool for $8.99....the tool is feels heavy duty, and isn't a china made deal. The clamps (various sizes) sell for $0.26/ea. The owner, Doug, is a super helpful guy, and has reasonable shipping charges.

http://aardvarkbrewing.com
 
My LHBS sells the tool clamping tool for $8.99....the tool is feels heavy duty, and isn't a china made deal. The clamps (various sizes) sell for $0.26/ea. The owner, Doug, is a super helpful guy, and has reasonable shipping charges.

http://aardvarkbrewing.com

This is what I paid for mine as well. Tool is well made, and even if it wasn't it is not something I use daily anyway that will have the wear/tear associated with it.
 
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