Can I get some wiring help please??

I'm doing a build for a RIMS system where I only need to get power to/from the temp probe and element. I know this is easy to most, but can I get some help please? I know a lot of you guys are better suited to help me through it than I am to try it myself.

So far, my plan is:
1/16 DIN Auber SYL-2352 (via TheElectricBrewery recommendation)
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

25A SSR
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9

2.5" 1/2 NPT PT-100 RTD Sensor
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=261:981f97979ddaddfbae3363f4386c9002

I'm thinking I will run a 1500w element on 120v. I'd also like a power button to give main power but also a killswitch/safety switch if possible. That way both have to be tripped to power up, but I can kill power with the kill switch. Is that possible? Also, I need pump wiring, but I don't want to ask for too much!

Is there a similar diagram already out there?

if not specific wiring help, can someone tell me if these 3 will in fact work together well?

Yes, those 3 items should play well together.

Alright, thanks. Maybe P-J will see this and have one in the archives. Thanks again evanmars.

Here is my wiring diagram that I used and it works fine. I have two switches - one for the master power and one just for the element. This gives me more control over temps and allows me to monitor temps while the element is off.

The RTD sensor is really easy to connect and is left off the diagram because it is just a matter of connecting three wires to the PID and its all set.

All you need to do in order to use my diagram is remove one wire, I believe the green wire. A 110 has two wires and I used a 3 wire 220. I am not an electrician but you are running the same kind of system as mine. To attach a pump, just run a switch between the connections and your all set. My control box has 220 going in for my PID, SSR, heating element and 2 switches as well as a single 110 coming to control my pump. Make sure you buy a heat sink for the SSR. Mine melted on my first batch due to the heat. A heat sink prevents that is a must.

Let me know if you have any questions and I will do my best to explain and help you wire this up. Its really not that hard. Make sure you purchase a GFCI breaker for your house panel to protect you. They are not cheap but I do think your life if worth it.

Thanks TahoeRy, I will read up on how to wire my pumps. I should have a GFCI in the garage I'll be using for a while, it's a newer house so it should have at least one.

The pumps are easy. You should have three wires coming from the pump (assuming you purchased the March pump without a plug). You should have a Black, White and Green from the pump and also from the cord that goes to the wall plug. The black from the pump goes to the top connection and the black from the plug comes out the bottom connection on the plug. The green (ground) from both connect to the ground connection on the plug and the white wires just get connected together, effectively bypassing the plug altogether.

Does that make sense?

I bought chuggers, with plugs. I should be able to just cut the plug off though, correct? I've not ordered all my control electronics yet as I didn't want to order the wrong stuff...but I will ordering shortly.

You could just connect the switch to a female plug and connect your pump into that. Don't cut your plug off, you can connect it just fine to a female plug. That way you can move the control box around without having the pumps hanging off. Just go to an electric supply house and pick up the wire you need and the connectors. I found a great waterproof wire and connectors at my local supply house. Let me know if you need any input and ill do my best to help out.

Consider using a contactor to enable/disable power to the element. You could wire an e-stop switch in series w/ the contactor coil as the kill switch. Depending on the wiring, you could keep the pump and PID on or off when you hit the e-stop.

Would I be okay running the 25amp relay with higher rated switches/power buttons? I imagine so, but wanted to double check. I plan on ordering this stuff pretty soon. Thanks for all the help so far.

Higher amperage ratings should be fine.

Your breaker should be the lowest rated component in the system. If you have a 25a breaker, you want switches and wiring and components that are capable of handling more than 25a. Of course, if you put a fuse downstream of the breaker, that changes things. Always have it set up so a breaker or fuse will pop / switch prior to one of your components bursting into flames.