Want to use WL005 but with a West Coast Hop flavor/aroma profile.

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johnsnownw

johnsnownw

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Is this a good idea? It's for use in a Pale Ale.

I'm looking at this because the wife doesn't like overly bitter beers. So my thinking is that I can use this yeast to limit hop bite, while keeping a tropical hop profile.

Using Simcoe, Citra, and Rakau.

Using Munich, Honey, and Aromatic Malt as 16% of grain bill.

Thanks!

EDIT:

Perhaps West coast is a misnomer...lets just say an American Pale Ale aromatic/flavor profile.
 
Try it IMO.

Another option would be shifting a portion of your bittering hops towards the end of the boil and just reducing the IBUs. Could also try FWH'ing as it's described as creating a smoother/rounder bitterness.
 
CharlosCarlies said:
Try it IMO.

Another option would be shifting a portion of your bittering hops towards the end of the boil and just reducing the IBUs. Could also try FWH'ing as it's described as creating a smoother/rounder bitterness.
Click to expand...

I hadn't considered FWH, thanks.

As for IBU's that exactly what I've done...the recipe is coming in at 37 IBU's...so not too bitter...but if the yeast could help accentuate the malt...I'd be a happy camper. That's assuming the esters from W005 don't negatively impact the hop profile.
 
If you've not used this yeast before, its Ringwood. While there are a lot of people who vehemently hate the stuff, as it can produce a lot of diacetyl, if you can control your fermentation and have a good hold on yeast management it does make some really excellent pale ales/IPAs.

Depending on what you want, it can exhibit an extremely clean and neutral Chico yeast type of character, or produce many of the same esters/flavors as found in your typical English strains. It is very versatile... and equally temperamental. If your not careful, you can easily end up with an overly fruity or buttery-diacetyl laden beer that tastes like crap.

A few tips: be sure to pitch A LOT of healthy yeast, oxygenate very well, and keep the temps low. Overpitching with this yeast is not a bad thing if you want a very clean flavor and it is nearly impossible add too much oxygen at pitching. This is a true top cropper yeast and it is can stall out during fermentation, especially if the pitch/oxygen is low. Rousing helps, but shouldn't be necessary. It ferments well at 60F and can become quite estery when fermented at typical 65-70F ale temps. 62F is about as high as I like to go with this yeast.

Lastly, this yeast will highlight the malt flavors, so you really don't need a lot of specialty malts. Pale and some munich are fine, although I would be very hesitant to include so much aromatic and honey malt. There are some very nice APA's brewed with Ringwood that are just 90% pale, 10% crystal and a boat load of hops. Good luck with the beer.
 
I guess I had really good timing on the read of this thread! Started a Dog Fish Shelter Pale Ale clone last night I temp control fermentation in the summer but not the winter even though I have a vessel to do it. Gonna drop it in tonight and let it roll at about 62. Also glad to know I used a lot of pure 02 and a starter
 
bierhaus15 said:
If you've not used this yeast before, its Ringwood. While there are a lot of people who vehemently hate the stuff, as it can produce a lot of diacetyl, if you can control your fermentation and have a good hold on yeast management it does make some really excellent pale ales/IPAs.

Depending on what you want, it can exhibit an extremely clean and neutral Chico yeast type of character, or produce many of the same esters/flavors as found in your typical English strains. It is very versatile... and equally temperamental. If your not careful, you can easily end up with an overly fruity or buttery-diacetyl laden beer that tastes like crap.

A few tips: be sure to pitch A LOT of healthy yeast, oxygenate very well, and keep the temps low. Overpitching with this yeast is not a bad thing if you want a very clean flavor and it is nearly impossible add too much oxygen at pitching. This is a true top cropper yeast and it is can stall out during fermentation, especially if the pitch/oxygen is low. Rousing helps, but shouldn't be necessary. It ferments well at 60F and can become quite estery when fermented at typical 65-70F ale temps. 62F is about as high as I like to go with this yeast.

Lastly, this yeast will highlight the malt flavors, so you really don't need a lot of specialty malts. Pale and some munich are fine, although I would be very hesitant to include so much aromatic and honey malt. There are some very nice APA's brewed with Ringwood that are just 90% pale, 10% crystal and a boat load of hops. Good luck with the beer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that information...that is very helpful!

EDIT:

I do have one question though. What should I expect for fermentation time if I ferment at 60-62? As I recall, WL mentions fermenting at 65 for a low, and doing so for 7-10 days.
 
As an update, I decided to go with WLP001 for this batch. I will brew with WLP005 in the future and compare.

Thanks for the help.
 
Nice...good to see people paying attention to water. :)

If you haven't brewed this already, I'd definitely add some more calcium chloride in the future. Your calcium is on the lower side of acceptable to begin w/, and as mentioned the chloride tends to soften the beer out a bit which seems to be what you're shooting for. I'd shoot for 100 ppm of calcium and see what that does to your chloride levels.
 

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