I see everyone that motorizes their grain mills go out and source a motor and pulleys and belts. Has anyone just taken a cheap Harbor freight drill, yanked the business end out of it and just used that directly? Seems kind of obvious since a lot of people use their drill to drive their mills, but haven't actually seen anyone do this.
Motorize grain mill will a drill?
- Thread starter kerklein2
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kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Why motorize a mill at all?
tyzippers
Well-Known Member
kerklein2 said:
Nobody's saying you have to. You could just as easily put a hand crank on it and crank on it for 15 minutes or so.
I think most motorized their mills to reduce milling time and reduce the amount of work that goes into milling.
I think the folks that use a drill to power their mill simply put the drive shaft directly into the drill chuck and tighten down. Pretty simple.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
I understand completely what people are doing. What I'm saying is that a lot of people are driving with a drill, and a lot of people are sourcing motors and pulleys and belts to motorize. My idea was to just use the motor and gear train from a drill to motorize. Seems a lot cheaper than any other motorizing options.
I originally had mine hooked up to my niece's hamster's wheel.
But the stupid hamster died during the first run with the wheel attached to the mill.
It was really awkward explaining to a 9 year old that yes, exercise is good for you but if not done properly it can be fatal. Poor little pookie took all the blame for trying too hard and not taking enough breaks to rehydrate.
So I ended up just using my drill and bypassed the hamster altogether in order to avoid the whole thing from happening again.
That's why I use an old drill.
But the stupid hamster died during the first run with the wheel attached to the mill.
It was really awkward explaining to a 9 year old that yes, exercise is good for you but if not done properly it can be fatal. Poor little pookie took all the blame for trying too hard and not taking enough breaks to rehydrate.
So I ended up just using my drill and bypassed the hamster altogether in order to avoid the whole thing from happening again.
That's why I use an old drill.
I tried running my three roller this weekend with a friend's 3/8" corded drill. After about 30 seconds, it started smoking, so it was back to the hand crank for the rest of the grain.
Still debating if I want to try a harbor freight 1/2" drill or if it will be similarly undermatched.
Still debating if I want to try a harbor freight 1/2" drill or if it will be similarly undermatched.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Hmm. Hard to imagine a corded drill crapping out like that. I imagine it was on the way out already.
I think there's a huge difference in torque requirements between a 2 roller and a 3 roller mill, and also most drills have no torque at the low RPMs you need to really milll grain effectively. The combination of low speed and high torque can kill a standard drill pretty quickly.
I guess just don't follow how dismantling a drill and reassembling the motor and gear train is "cheaper than any other motorizing options" especially just using the drill as a drill and being to use that drill for other drilling. Drill.
If the drill breaks, I'll probably resort to this, and it'll help with losing the beer belly. Win-win!
ILoveBeer2
Well-Known Member
I mill with a Corona and the perfect setting is when a 3/8 drill starts to smoke. Picked up a HF 1/2 drill and it works perfectly.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's the same price as just using the drill, but a $20 harbor freight drill is a lot cheaper than any other motorizing options I've seen. If you don't understand the desire to make the mill a self contained unit, then this thread is just not for you I guess.
I made a pasta roller mill and tested it out last weekend. Works like a charm with my drill. I still need to build the hopper bigger but it cracks this grains faster than any corona. I went to the Yakima Valley Hop Homebrew store a few weeks ago and we had a hell of a time cracking 14 pounds with a corona and a drill. Went through 3 screws and towards the end the battery died so they had to switch back to the hand crank. That weekend I built my mill. Cost me $14. I built one a few years ago but wound up selling it before I started buying bulk. These things will last a very long time and they are cheap to replace. Anyways I use a 7/16 wood bit. It fits perfectly into the rollers. I run the drill on high and get a perfect crack every time. I have an old drill with a cord I'm considering mounting to the mill and hooking it up to a switch so all I have to do is flip a switch but that's mainly something I would do out of boredom in my garage
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Now this is what I'm talking about.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I did this with a corded drill from Home Depot, around $30. I put the mill on a custom MDF plate cut to size for my milling station (a small one). I had to build it up a little bit under the drill so it wasn't hanging in air. Then I used a tube clamp to go around the drill handle and hold the trigger at the right spot. Then I used a remote control outlet and plugged the drill into that, so all I have to do is fill up the hopper, and hit a button on the remote.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Sweet! Got some pictures of that?
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
I was just looking on my phone, I could have sworn I took some pics but I guess I didn't. I can try to take a shot tonight when I go for a beer!
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Looking forward to seeing those!
processhead
Well-Known Member
My Corona mill with a 1/2" Milwaukee cord drill.
The retaining screw for the original handle is a 5/16" bolt.
I screwed in another bolt with the head cut off to make a shank for the drill chuck/
A towel over the bucket keeps the dust down while milling.
I would like to come up with a larger malt hopper for it.
The retaining screw for the original handle is a 5/16" bolt.
I screwed in another bolt with the head cut off to make a shank for the drill chuck/
A towel over the bucket keeps the dust down while milling.
I would like to come up with a larger malt hopper for it.
I permanently mounted a Harbor Freight low speed high torque 1/2" drill to my grain mill.
I has plenty or torque at 1/4 -1/2 of the drills speed.
I used a coupler between the drill and the mill to account for any alignment issues and made a cradle to support the drill and used the existing side handle hole to mount to from the bottom.
Dan M.
I has plenty or torque at 1/4 -1/2 of the drills speed.
I used a coupler between the drill and the mill to account for any alignment issues and made a cradle to support the drill and used the existing side handle hole to mount to from the bottom.
Dan M.
Take a look at mine too.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-ugly-corona-mill-project-402037/
You can put another bucket over the top to keep the dust down. And there are reducers you can buy at lowes, hd, etc, that could add another 2 or 3 lbs of capability. Ultimatley though I want to get a 5g water bottle, and cut the opening a little wider, cut the bottom off, and use that for more capability.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
There we go! What did you do to bypass the trigger? Just use a clamp to hold it down?
I like using the switch idea, I may have to do that to mine in the spring.
Here is how I set up mine with a right angle drill. With the trigger lock and the drill resting on a bucket it is hands free.
I see they sell right angle attachments. I have never used these but I think in combination with one of those HF D handle drills, this would work nice...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X6NOK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I see they sell right angle attachments. I have never used these but I think in combination with one of those HF D handle drills, this would work nice...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X6NOK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Last edited by a moderator:
I did this
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/drill-motor-grain-mill-314721/
And it works great.
Also with out messing with the drill I still have it if my other drill is too small for a job.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/drill-motor-grain-mill-314721/
And it works great.
Also with out messing with the drill I still have it if my other drill is too small for a job.
kerklein2
Well-Known Member
Looks pretty slick.
As Ischiavo does, I use the trigger lock. Set it to the speed you want and leave it alone. Now I just use the toggle switch to turn it on/off.
gswartley, yours setup looks great!
Someday I will put mine in a cabinet.
Dan M.
gswartley, yours setup looks great!
Someday I will put mine in a cabinet.
Dan M.
Monster Mash
Well-Known Member
I friend of mine is doing this. He has a drill that quit working due to a faulty switch so he ripped it apart and put a new rocker switch in line. The motor will be mounted without the plastic drill housing.
dbrewski
Well-Known Member
Here is mine. Nothing fancy, just used an existing small wire shelf. The grain bucket is enclosed in black foam core just to keep dust down.
M00se,
Look at post #23. I have a link to the Harbor Freight drill that I used.
Dan M.
Look at post #23. I have a link to the Harbor Freight drill that I used.
Dan M.
