I condition in the keg, since there is a whole lot less to clean when it comes to bottling. Someone made the suggestion to use about half the priming sugar and leave around an inch of head space.
I have read about people force carbing with these little ones, but I haven't tired that yet.
Also, I will use the 3 part bung, pictured on left since you can vent the beer, then pull off the top red piece and then push the red plug in. On my current batch I tried out on the grey bungs to see if they are easier to pull out once the keg is empty. The 3-part bung takes a good bit of effort (and my pillars to pull it out). I wonder if you turned the keg upside down and tried to vent with the pull out faucet prior to tapping if that would help relive pressure or just make a bigger mess.
Someone also removed the pullout faucet and learned the hole for it is the same size as the one on top. I have toyed with the idea removing it and replacing it with a three part just to make cleaning and drying easier.
I got the orange bung with my edge star keg conversion kit (what I converted my beer tender with) and they are great with the commercial kegs that don't have tapable bungs since the 'barbed' part is way less pronounced so getting it out is super easy. So I will remove the factory bung (I have heard some use the three part one pictured, but I haven't found any yet) and stick the orange one in, and holds pressure very well.
I know someone mentioned the Heineken/New Castle Keg earlier in the thread, and this may be of interest:
http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90461. I am thinking of trying to modify a bung like he did, but with a pressure relief valve as opposed to a Presta valve. I looked into this prior to what I did and thought about doing it, however I want with the bulkier setup since if left me with more options. But for picnics and travel, I think his system nails it.