240v 5500w eBIAB planning, please help!

Sorry for the long thread!
I'm currently planning on moving on to an BIAB AG setup. I've decided to figure out a parts list and price for a electric BIAB setup since I live in an apartment and can't have propane on a balcony, etc, etc. I'm basically taking lots of information from Johhnodon's build thread and Kal's Electric Brewery website and P-J has been nice enough to hook me up with a wiring diagram! I'm a complete newbie when it comes to everything electrical, but I'll have some of my electrical savvy friends look over my shoulder!

EDITS:
- Added wiring diagram
- Added control panel layout
- Added contactor per diagram
- Updated questions
- New control panel layout (this one is drawn to scale!)

Kettle:
Amazon - 62qt Bayou Classic Pot with Basket
Brew Hardware - Weldless Sight Tee + cleaning brush (temp probe will be installed in the tee)
Brew Hardware - 3-piece Stainless Ball Valve
Brew Hardware - Weldless Bulkhead
Brew Hardware - 1/2" Hose Barb
Wilserbrewer - BIAB Bag

Heating:
NOTE: After pricing out all the parts for the heating element, I end up with $135 + shipping while Kal's part kit is $145 + shipping. Peace of mind is worth $10 to me!
Kal's Heating Element - DIY kit

Controller:
Electric Brewing Supply - 300x300x150 Steel Enclosure
Auber - 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-2352)
Auber - 40A SSR
Auber - 40A External Heat sink
Auber - 30A, 2 pole, 120V Coil Contactor
Auber - 40A, 2 pole, 120V Coil Contactor
Auber - Liquid Tight RTD Sensor - 4", 1/4" NPT - 8' deluxe upgrade
Auber - Illuminated Maintained Push button Switch x2 (blue = pump, green = heat)
Auber - Emergency Stop (E-Stop) Switch, 22mm
Auber - Flashing Buzzer - 22mm
Auber - Buzzer Selector Switch - 22mm
Auber- 15A Electrical Outlet
Lowes - Coleman 10/4 Black Power Cord
Amazon - 30A, 250V Plug
Amazon - 30A, 250V Locking Receptacle
Radio Shack - Inline Fuse Holder x4
Radio Shack - 1A Fast-acting Fuses
Radio Shack - 1A Slow-blow Fuses
Radio Shack - 10A Fast-acting Fuses
Radio Shack - 1k-ohm, 1W resistors
Radio Shack - 15ft/each 10awg Stranded Wire in red, black, white and green
Radio Shack - 4-Position Dual-row Terminal Strip
And also some wing nuts, spade & ring connectors, and tension relief clamps for the interior wiring.

Spa Panel:
Home Depot - 50A 240V Spa Panel
Other?

Wiring diagram (Thanks P-J!!):


Spa panel wiring:


Control panel layout (drawn to scale):


Current questions:
- Are the plugs in the parts list correct?
- Anything extra needed for the spa panel or does everything come with the purchase?
- What size enclosure would be optimal for the layout above? Where to buy one?

You could save some dollars using the Auber E stop push button instead of the illuminated maintained push button. Curious what your plans are for wort chilling.

bambari said:

You could save some dollars using the Auber E stop push button instead of the illuminated maintained push button. Curious what your plans are for wort chilling.

Click to expand...

I use an copper immersion chiller currently and I'll keep using it until I upgrade to a system with a pump.

What are you plugging your element in to? That's what is meant by "element receptacle." Right now, you don't have anything to plug the element in to. It goes in the control box. You can see it in the upper right of the diagram, coming out of the contactor.

Also, you don't need to spend that much on your element and housing. I don't have a drill press, either. It just requires more elbow grease to do it yourself for a LOT cheaper.

Ah, I see what you mean now, can't believe I missed that!

Yeah, I've been thinking about that. I'm going to ask around, somebody should have a drill press I can use!

Two more:

Listen to P-J and countless others and upgrade your RTD to the deluxe cable. It's only an extra $11 and so worth it.

Check out the "show me your element housing" thread for some ideas that could help you avoid the need for a drill press.

Good luck! I'm finishing up my build this week.

I drilled out the element box with a step drill bit held down with my feet! Don't let the lack of drill cause you to buy that expensive kit.

@Broham1 - Done and done. Thanks for the heads up on the RTD cable.
@pidass - I've decided to basically copy Kal's part list and assemble my own heating element instead.

Am I missing anything from my parts list? Will the key switch work and connect the same way as the illuminated buttons?

Don't miss the fuses and resistors in the diagram. Radio Shack.

Are these the right kind of fuses/fuse holders?
Radio Shack - Inline Fused Holder
Radio Shack - 1A Fast-acting Fuses
Radio Shack - 10A Fast-acting Fuses
Radio Shack - 1k-ohm, 1W resistors
Radio Shack - 10awg Stranded Wire

Or should I look for DIN mounted breakers?

Looks right. I used the mounted fuse holders so I don't have to open the box to change a fuse.

I'm finishing up today (hopefully) and I gotta say, it is a VERY tight fit inside Auber's project box. If you can, go with a bigger box.

Decided I really like Broham's build with the alarm buzzer, so I'm changing the wiring diagram to this (although, still using the turn key for power):


and adding these 2 parts:
Auber - Flashing Buzzer - 22mm
Auber - Buzzer Selector Switch - 22mm

And I found a picture (in one of Broham's threads) that is basically exactly what I'm looking for, with the exception of a turn key instead of the button for power:


Anyone know where I can find a box similar to the above?

Small detail but you need heat sink grease as well.

NivekD said:

Small detail but you need heat sink grease as well.

Click to expand...

The heat sinks from Auber Instruments come with the heat sink conductive grease. From the description of the heat sink:

The heat sink is shipped with SSR mounting screws and heat conductive grease.

Click to expand...

Just a heads up.

DaSwede,

Can I help you in your mission with a diagram? If so, I'd be glad to, I just need to really figure out what you want for your mission & final plan.

Just let me know.

P-J

P-J said:

DaSwede,

Can I help you in your mission with a diagram? If so, I'd be glad to, I just need to really figure out what you want for your mission & final plan.

Just let me know.

P-J

Click to expand...

Thanks P-J, that would be fantastic!
Final plan:
Recirculating electric BIAB system for brewing 5-10 gallon beer (depending on gravity). As I live in an apartment and will be for the next foreseeable future, I need to build a system that can brew on a balcony (no propane). Power will come from the dryer outlet (240V, 30A) with a spa panel in between for GFCI. Water will be from a hose connection to the bathroom faucet and eventually going through a filter.

To keep the cost down (initially), the whole thing will be built in a phased approach so that the base system comes first, then adding pump and hoses, then standalone brew stand and hand crank hoist (for the basket/bag). To keep with this phased approach, I'd like to build the control panel to support the plan from the beginning using the following specs:
- SYL-2352 PID and a 40A SSR /w heatsink
- Illuminated buttons for pump & heating element
- Key for main power
- Emergency stop button
- Flashing buzzer with selector switch for alarm

Panel connected to the spa panel and the 5500W Camco ripple element in the BK.

Here's the exact layout I'm thinking:


I hope that's enough information.

Thanks for the info.

BTW - the image is not showing.

Image should be fixed.

I would use a single 1amp fuse for all the low power stuff (PID, alarm, relay, coil, etc.)
You also might consider wiring the power switch to disable power to the PID AND to the relay coil and you could eliminate the EPO (or use the estop w/ NC as your power on/off switch)

DaSwede,

I just finished the diagram for you. I hope it fits you plan & needs.

As always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11"x17")




Also: Here is the wiring plan for the Spa Panel:



Hope this helps you.

Please let me know if you need any changes.

P-J

Thank you so much P-J! This is really awesome! Just a single question: the diagram has a second contactor that looks to be 240V 50A? I can't seem to find one over 40A on the Auber website, the closest I can find is this: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

DaSwede said:

Thank you so much P-J! This is really awesome! Just a single question: the diagram has a second contactor that looks to be 240V 50A? I can't seem to find one over 40A on the Auber website, the closest I can find is this: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

Click to expand...

Use this one: Contactor, 2 pole 40 A, 120V Coil

Read the data sheet on it. It states that it is rated for our resistive loads: Resistive SMPS Rating 50A, 120-600VAC so for our application it is very well suited.

Hope this helps.

P-J

Thanks P-J! I think I have my parts list finished for this build, with the exception of the enclosure! YAY!

I have everything bought, except wire! Just a sanity check though: I can use 14 gauge everywhere, except where 30A will be pulled (basically the circuit with the element), right? Am I missing any below?

DaSwede said:

I have everything bought, except wire! Just a sanity check though: I can use 14 gauge everywhere, except where 30A will be pulled (basically the circuit with the element), right? Am I missing any below?
...

Click to expand...

That is correct. It's A-Ok.

Thanks for the confirmation P-J!

Any Update??

Thanks,

scsjohn said:

Any Update??

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, work has gotten in the way more than I'd like, but so far I have all part purchased, the control panel laid out and the kettle laid out. Next will be drilling the kettle and control panel. Hopefully in the next two weeks or so.

What did you end up using for an enclosure?

kaptk2 said:

What did you end up using for an enclosure?

Click to expand...

I ended up with the enclosure from Electric Brewery Supply: http://www.ebrewsupply.com/more/enclosures/encl3x3x15.html

It's a nice quality enclosure. VERY sturdy.

I know this is an old thread, but how is your eBIAB working?

Back from the dead! After switching jobs, moving a few times, traveling, and the general chaos of life, I'm getting back into brewing and finishing this build which was sidelined and stored way too long ago.

So back to building! I have all parts bought and have started putting it all together, I will make a build thread soon with pictures, etc.