Mash In A Bucket system

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I wonder if you could do a one vessel brew with this.

Could you pull out the grain and screen and then go directly to boil?
 
jhoyda said:
Great build, it has me considering doing something similar. Mostly so I can set my mash temp and forget about it! Currently, I find myself checking on it regularly.

Now the nitpicking: you could have saved a ton on your stainless fittings simply by visiting the nearest plumbing supply house. Most will sell direct to the consumer. The 1-1/4" tees that Amazon sells for $31 are less than $10 from mine. The 8" nipple about $6. You never know, the guy behind the counter might be a homebrewer too:)

I contacted 3 plumbing supply stores around the Des Moines area and nobody carries stainless so I went with Amazon. I wish I could have found it cheaper but I was impatient.
 
cooldood said:
I wonder if you could do a one vessel brew with this.

Could you pull out the grain and screen and then go directly to boil?

That's not a bad idea and I'm sure that you might be able to but I would be leery about bringing wort to a boil in a plastic container such as this.
 
That's not a bad idea and I'm sure that you might be able to but I would be leery about bringing wort to a boil in a plastic container such as this.

Am sure you can build something like this in a keggle. Make a all in one!! Damn if I weren't so broke I would go for it lol
 
I wonder if you could do a one vessel brew with this.

Could you pull out the grain and screen and then go directly to boil?

I would think you could if the cooler was a kettle instead. Then you'd essentially be doing a brew in a bag with a reusable bag.
 
[QUOTE="Skidsmint"
I had a custom stainless basket built for $150 including shipping. PM me and I will give the contact info for Chad at Arbor Fabricating.
[/QUOTE]


I got mine for $141 shipped
 
PM sent


I think the advantage to boiling in a cooler would be the reduced energy demand. Most of the energy put in stays in.
 
I used the MIAB system for the second time yesterday and got 79% efficiency this time according to ibrewmaster.

image-2610133211.jpg
 
I am thinking of turning this
photo%25202.JPG


photo%25201.JPG


Into the same sort of idea except since it is SS do BIAB
 
Question:

Why do you use the stainless steel basket? Would using a false bottom do the same job?

Thank you,
Jim
 
jimbonnet said:
Question:

Why do you use the stainless steel basket? Would using a false bottom do the same job?

Thank you,
Jim

If I used a false bottom it would be hard to recirculate without getting a stuck mash because the grains would compact. By using a basket I don't have to worry about stuck mashes and I can recirculate no problem and increase my efficiency at the same time.
 
I'm having difficulty seeing how this extra expense makes a better system than using a paint strainer bag inside my boiling pot. I bring the water (as near full volume as I can fit in my pot) to strike temp, drop the bag in and stir in the grains. Pop the lid on, insulate the pot somewhat (wrapped in a bath towel), and let it set for the 30 to 60 minutes I mash for. No stirring after the lid is put on, no recirculation, pull the bag out, squeeze the wort out of it and start heating for the boil.
 
RM-MN said:
I'm having difficulty seeing how this extra expense makes a better system than using a paint strainer bag inside my boiling pot. I bring the water (as near full volume as I can fit in my pot) to strike temp, drop the bag in and stir in the grains. Pop the lid on, insulate the pot somewhat (wrapped in a bath towel), and let it set for the 30 to 60 minutes I mash for. No stirring after the lid is put on, no recirculation, pull the bag out, squeeze the wort out of it and start heating for the boil.

Are you step mashing in your paint bag?
 
No. I don't need the protein rest because my malts are fully modified and since I can squeeze the wort out of the bag the beta glucan rest doesn't seem worthwhile either.

I suppose I could do a step mash but it gets interesting getting the mash all the same temperature as you add heat. It's really easy to go over the temperature you want. Maybe I just want to brew beer and not worry about all the little items.
 
RM-MN said:
I'm having difficulty seeing how this extra expense makes a better system than using a paint strainer bag inside my boiling pot. I bring the water (as near full volume as I can fit in my pot) to strike temp, drop the bag in and stir in the grains. Pop the lid on, insulate the pot somewhat (wrapped in a bath towel), and let it set for the 30 to 60 minutes I mash for. No stirring after the lid is put on, no recirculation, pull the bag out, squeeze the wort out of it and start heating for the boil.

There's pro's and con's to every system. The con to mine is that it does cost more than your paint strainer but I have more flexibility to make other styles with my system, I can control my temps more efficiently, and can do a step mash if I want among other things. Another pro with my system is that it's easy to use and I don't have to lift heavy wet bags of grain. I get very high efficiency out of each batch and I think that recirculating and agitating the grains contribute to that efficiency.
 
If I used a false bottom it would be hard to recirculate without getting a stuck mash because the grains would compact. By using a basket I don't have to worry about stuck mashes and I can recirculate no problem and increase my efficiency at the same time.

Not the case. I know a guy with this system:
430701_3158022743799_513162923_n.jpg


and his RIMS feeds into a keggle with a false bottom, and the recirculation helps create a great filter bed, not stuck sparges.
 
No. I don't need the protein rest because my malts are fully modified and since I can squeeze the wort out of the bag the beta glucan rest doesn't seem worthwhile either.

I suppose I could do a step mash but it gets interesting getting the mash all the same temperature as you add heat. It's really easy to go over the temperature you want. Maybe I just want to brew beer and not worry about all the little items.
The MIAB system isn't for everyone...most beers, these days, can be made with a single infusion mash. You can make a great version of 90% of beers with your BiaB system, no doubt. But for people who do want to make the other 10% of beers, or want a more automated process, this MIAB system is AMAZING, when compared to a typical RIMS or HERMS system. :)
 
high5apparatus said:
Not the case. I know a guy with this system:

and his RIMS feeds into a keggle with a false bottom, and the recirculation helps create a great filter bed, not stuck sparges.

I originally had a false bottom in my cooler because it was cheap and it did work well, until I added a pump into the mix. Once I installed my pump it would get stuck every so often especially when I brewed stouts with rolled oats. Maybe a false bottom works well with other systems but it just didn't work well with mine. That pic that you posted is a really nice setup but it's also huge compared to mine and is easily 3-4 times the cost of mine with all the Blichmann products involved.
 
I can’t tell you exactly how much $ I have into this system because I’ve changed the design over the past year. If I were to guess, I probably $500-600 wrapped up into it but I’m sure it could be built cheaper. I never really kept any notes or parts list but here is what I could remember off the top of my head.

Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubberma...ge-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809#.UUt3aOQo7Vg
I pieced together the valve assembly for the cooler, not sure of all the part #’s. I used a 1/2 “ thread barb for the tube assembly on the cooler lid and lined with Reflectix insulation.

I had a custom stainless basket built for $150 including shipping. PM me and I will give the contact info for Chad at Arbor Fabricating.


The heater tube assembly I made from the following stainless pieces from Amazon and bought the brew heater from my local beer store for $70.


Quantity of 1 - Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, MSS SP-114, 1-1/4" NPT Male X 1" NPT Female - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H05DTI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quantity of 2 - Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Tee, Class 150, 1-1/4" NPT Female - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSKXHS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quantity of 1 - Stainless Steel 304/304L Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 40 Welded, 1-1/4" X 8" NPT Male - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQJND2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quantity of 3 - Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, MSS SP-114, 1-1/4" NPT Male X 1/2" NPT Female - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H05EH4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quantity of 1 – Stainless Steel thermowell ½” FPT x 2 ½”L x ½” MTP protection tube - http://www.ebay.com/itm/THERMOWELL-...822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec1341dde

Quantity of 2 – ½” x 1.5” pipe nipples


I have a Chugger Stainless pump - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chugger-Sta...193?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e73ee9fc9


Sous Vide temp controller - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermostat-...all_Kitchen_Appliances_US&hash=item20ce09909d


5 feet of Norprene tubing

6 SharkBite ½” swivel fittings - http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...ss-Swivel-Elbow-UC532A/202032924#.UUt6NeQo7Vg



That's about all I can remember right now.

Does anybody have a part number or suggestion for this "brew heater from my local beer store for $70"

Or should I just try to find a 110v water heater coil?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I bought a water heating element on amazon for $6, $10 shipped. 5" 1500w, screwed right into the end.
 
If I use this system to also boil will 110v handle a 5 gallon batch?
My guess is it will just take a little longer to hit boil
 
I am in awe of this setup! Well done!!

I have no experience with heat elements, how do you mount it in the SS tube? Are there fittings or something? Just a lot of silicone? LOL
 
More questions. How accurate is the temp control? Does it seem to be a good build? I want to make a RIMS setup later this summer. I can wire up my own temp control but, if I can get one for $120 I won't need to.
 
davekippen said:
I am in awe of this setup! Well done!!

I have no experience with heat elements, how do you mount it in the SS tube? Are there fittings or something? Just a lot of silicone? LOL

Heating element screws right in, here's a pic of mine

Before and after

image-1804417712.jpg


image-3200724930.jpg
 
cooldood said:
If I use this system to also boil will 110v handle a 5 gallon batch?
My guess is it will just take a little longer to hit boil

I've never attempted to boil with this system but I don't think 110v will be enough to bring 5 gallons to a boil.
 
Osedax said:
More questions. How accurate is the temp control? Does it seem to be a good build? I want to make a RIMS setup later this summer. I can wire up my own temp control but, if I can get one for $120 I won't need to.

The temp control that I was sent is pretty accurate. I actually took it completely apart when I first got it just to check the components and the workmanship, everything looked pretty good to me. I think that you would be happy with the quality for the price. You can do quite a bit with that temp controller.
 
I recently moved to a ten gallon 3 keg set up but i'm out brewing our in take. I really like this set up! I'm thinking of doing this in a 5 gal igloo cooler for competition beers and to add variety to my beer fridge. Also because i already own it. I think i could do 3 gal batches using 5 gal lowes coolers for fermenters.

Thanks for the thread!
 
Such a great build Skidsmint and an interesting thread. Easily the most intriguing electric setup I've seen (in terms of me actually considering building one). Scotty2 - keep us updated with your build. I'd like to see how yours pans out using the different heating element. Thanks fellas.
 
Great project and great build! Thanks for sharing the details!

I could see doing something like this with a MiniMash MLT:
http://www.homebrewing.org/MiniMash-Lauter-Tun-15-Gallons_p_2669.html

Is the basket really necessary? Wouldn't a decent false bottom suffice?

This reminds me of JKarp's Brutus 20 but with a RIMS heater and in a very tidy setup. Is there any concern with low utilization/enzymatic action due to dilution since you're putting in so much water (>>1.25qts/lb)? I'm guessing not since your Hefe hit 85%(!!!!)?
 
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