Any Tips Before I Build a Conical Fermenter?

I'm going to manufacture my own conical fermenter and copper boiler this summer. I really need some advice from those brave few who have embarked on this troublesome journey. I'm considering 11ga 316L Stainless sheet stock and and 11ga 172 Beryllium Copper at a 10 to 15 gallon capacity with stainless steel ball valves. Of course there is more to the process than what I listed but I would appreciate some advice or any type of heads up.

How big are you going with the fermenter? I understand that most of the homebrew conicals are spun instead of welded. To me, that's the best way to fabricate the conical since it eliminates any welds in the body of the fermenter. I suppose you'll still have some welds at the dump port and racking port. Also, what are your plans for sealing the conical at the top?

Geez, I got a lot of questions! I've got some Victory and Founders in me tonight, so I'm a little chatty (basically, this is an "I'm buzzed" disclaimer).

keislir said:

I'm going to manufacture my own conical fermenter and copper boiler this summer. I really need some advice from those brave few who have embarked on this troublesome journey. I'm considering 11ga 316L Stainless sheet stock and and 11ga 172 Beryllium Copper at a 10 to 15 gallon capacity with stainless steel ball valves. Of course there is more to the process than what I listed but I would appreciate some advice or any type of heads up.

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Any reason you wouldn't just buy one? I know the site is very into DIY, which is awesome for most projects, but making a conical fermenter is a pretty big undertaking.

First 316 is not needed. 304 is fine. 11 gauge is also really really thick unless you're making a 1000bbl tank. Do you plan on rolling the cone and barrel? Do you own the roller? Also TIG welding stainless isn't like carbon steel. It's trickier and you'll need to back purge your welds.

It's literally going to cost you $1000's of dollars for something you can buy for well under $1000.

Spike is right- he didn't even mention being able to make sanitary welds that can be cleaned and sanitized, even if you do manage to purge and get good welds.

Have you considered the Ace-Rotomold plastic tanks? They're quite cheap and EXTREMELY easily modified- lots of how-tos around. I'm building 6 of the 110gal ones for my nano, but the 15 gallon ones are pretty cheap and they make a stand, or you can DIY your own. Look for a dealer near you so you don' t have to have them shipped too far.

http://www.denhartogindustries.com/inductor-tanks/

I have my bachelors in Welding Engineering so I understand the material price, gas price, and difficulty of welding, but I wasn't aware that 304 was corrosive resistant enough for brewing. Also I'm glad you mentioned material thickness, combined with a lower grade SS will definitely cut the cost.... I have advanced welding processes and consumables at my disposal so the project could be done relatively cheap. I'm basically looking at only material cost. Maybe I should just save myself a headache and buy one!

Most SS brewing equipment is made of 304. Even as much of a DIYer I am, I would rather just go buy a conical. I might add a jacket to it...that is feasible and aren't readily available in the smaller homebrew sized models. Now, is there any reason you would like to fabricate a copper BK rather than SS?

If you do make a conical in the 10-15 gallon range, make it fit in a fridge for temp control and make it pressurizable so you can push the beer out with co2.

Thank you for the advice, I'm fairly new to brewing so its been hard getting the details right. To be honest all I'm trying to do is build some equipment for myself haha. I'm interested in making a connect between my profession and brewing. So the first things that came to mind were a fermenter and a boiler. The copper idea came from another thread I found

whoa hold on, 11ga stainless sheet? thats like 1/8th thick. is there a reason for this? already have the stock?

16ga should be adequate, may be slightly more difficult to weld, but easier to bend

7ga is 1/16", so 11ga would be far less than 1/8" , but yes, I agree 11ga is overkill. I'm going to make an autogenous GTAW-P weld so that the substrate is flush with the weld and the HAZ is minimal. If the welding is done right, back purge and all, the project should be doable. I might reconsider the capacity.

keislir said:

7ga is 1/16", so 11ga would be far less than 1/8" , but yes, I agree 11ga is overkill. I'm going to make an autogenous GTAW-P weld so that the substrate is flush with the weld and the HAZ is minimal. If the welding is done right, back purge and all, the project should be doable. I might reconsider the capacity.

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Not to be a jerk or anything, but 7 ga is 3/16". 16 ga is 1/16". Just wanted to clear that up.

Haha woops!

keislir said:

Haha woops!

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It's all good in the hood!