tried this twice this winter out of pure laziness. Both times was hard to start fermentation with dry yeast but both turned out great. I am in Iowa so worked in winter would not try in summer. both beers are good drinkers.
No chill
- Thread starter LKHA
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djt17
Well-Known Member
I have done no chill several times both winter & summer. I have never noticed any difference in yeast starting. As soon as I turn the flame off I start to drain into a corny keg, seal it up & place on my basement floor. 12 - 24 hrs later I am at pitching temp; rack into carboy & pitch. All beers have tasted the same to the regular chill recipe. I no chill to save water & time; also, my immersion chiller was under sized.
ull find similar threads on here from people stating the same thing. One reason or another they don't chill and wait a day and pitch. Seems to still make a great brew.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
Nope.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
The "cold" tap water here in the summer is often 95-97°, and since I brew 10-12 gal batches it takes an incredible amount of ice to chill under those conditions. When the water's cold enough I use my chiller because it's fast and easy, but during the summer I just transfer to a keg, seal it up, and throw in my ferm chamber for 24 hrs. Whether using the chiller or the no-chill method, I like to bring the wort down to ~2° below the planned fermentation temp before pitching, and then let it rise to ferm temp. I've noticed no difference in lag, fermentation time, clarity, or flavor between the two methods.
I haven't noticed any difference in the end product. I always either let my beers sit for 4+ weeks, or cold crash before kegging, and they're always clear going into the keg, chill or no-chill.
I haven't noticed any difference in the end product. I always either let my beers sit for 4+ weeks, or cold crash before kegging, and they're always clear going into the keg, chill or no-chill.
djt17
Well-Known Member
No haze here either.
I am entertaining no chill myself, never even thought of using my kegs. I assume there is nothing wrong with no chilling in a corny keg then fermenting in the same keg?
Also, once you seal the keg hot, any tips on when you open it once cooled down? Does the keg build pressure from the heated wort or the opposite?
Also, once you seal the keg hot, any tips on when you open it once cooled down? Does the keg build pressure from the heated wort or the opposite?
djt17
Well-Known Member
No pressure; actually as the wort cools it should create a vacuum. For this reason after sealing the keg I hit it with gas & then cover the keg with a towel soaked with StarSan. I have not fermented in the keg; I rack to a carboy & leave most of the trub behind. But, I have heard of people doing just as you describe.
djt17 said:
How much psi do you use?
What's the purpose of the Starsan soaked towel?
djt17
Well-Known Member
12 psi. The poppets on a keg are not designed to operate in a vacuum vessel. Theoretical as the wort cools & creates a vacuum, air could be sucked past the poppets. Not sure if the towel is needed or not. But it gives me a warm fuzzy.
BadMrFrosty
Well-Known Member
Every one of my last 30 or so batches has been no chill and none of them have suffered for it. I just turn off the flame, put the lid on the kettle and leave to cool overnight. No transfer to another vessel, no problems with flavour or clarity.
djt17 said:
Makes sense. Thanks!
BadMrFrosty said:
Good to know. I am using an electric setup so I'd rather clean the kettle right away. Also, I plan on fermenting in the keg as well.
Iceman6409
Well-Known Member
Just some random questions here. BadMrFrosty you say you do your boil, put the kettle lid on and come back the next day and you have had no problems with about 30 batches? That is outstanding to be honest. I am looking for a way to reduce my water bill too so this is appealing to me.
Another thought. What if I was to finish the boil, transfer to carboy or plastic bucket and then put in a temperature controlled chest freezer overnight. Actually the more I think about it a plastic pail would be a better option with regards to moving it around. Much lighter. Would a corny keg work as well? Boil, transfer to corny, corny to freezer, rack to carboy when ready?
Another thought. What if I was to finish the boil, transfer to carboy or plastic bucket and then put in a temperature controlled chest freezer overnight. Actually the more I think about it a plastic pail would be a better option with regards to moving it around. Much lighter. Would a corny keg work as well? Boil, transfer to corny, corny to freezer, rack to carboy when ready?
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I don't think I'd trust a glass carboy with the thermal shock of boiling wort. Could be messy and dangerous if it shatters. I don't know if the average plastic bucket can withstand boiling temps either, but I've never tried. I know the Aussies use the square HDPE carboys, and don't seem to have any problems.
A corny keg will certainly work. I ferment all of my beer in kegs, both sankeys and cornies, so I just drain into my kegs, seal them up, and place them in my ferm chamber overnight. The next day I check the temps, and if they're ready I aerate and pitch my yeast.
BadMrFrosty
Well-Known Member
I Agree with JuanMoore above, glass can do horrible things if you pour hot liquid into a cold container. You could try heating up the carboy before hand but I don't think I would take the risk.
I have never put boiling wort into a bucket however I do sparge in a plastic ale pale at ~75C (~170F) and I have also seen people fitting electric heating elements to plastic buckets to boil in so who knows, its crazy but might just work :rockin:
