The vigorous stirring is to provide aeration, so the yeast can synthesize sterols and unsaturated fatty acids needed during the reproductive phase. It's possible that the new yeast they're providing is supersaturated with sterols and unsaturated fatty acids and doesn't need the oxygen to synthesize them.
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The vigorous stirring is to provide aeration, so the yeast can synthesize sterols and unsaturated fatty acids needed during the reproductive phase. It's possible that the new yeast they're providing is supersaturated with sterols and unsaturated fatty acids and doesn't need the oxygen to synthesize them.
Can you ruin yeast by stirring if it is supersaturated?
My first batches turned out ok and I didn't stir, so can I assume the yeast is ok to just be sprinkled, or could it have been better if I had stirred?
Is it a yes/no thing where it will work if stirred but not if un-stirred, or is there a spectrum of effectiveness?
My first batches turned out ok and I didn't stir, so can I assume the yeast is ok to just be sprinkled, or could it have been better if I had stirred?
Is it a yes/no thing where it will work if stirred but not if un-stirred, or is there a spectrum of effectiveness?
It won't hurt to stir it vigorously, but it isn't necessary.
pig-punisher
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I just drank the first bottle of this beer after about a week in the bottle and wow. This stuff is great. The rest will get two more weeks in the bottle.
Now I am super pumped to brew more this is great.
I just drank the first bottle of this beer after about a week in the bottle and wow. This stuff is great. The rest will get two more weeks in the bottle.
Now I am super pumped to brew more this is great.
Congrats on making a beer you love. After all the advice and arguing and opinions, brewing really comes home to that simple goal- brewing what you love and loving what you brew.
devianttouch
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I got my seasonal refill in the mail today, the Summer 2013 White IPA. It's HUGE! 3.75 pounds of HME. Very excited to brew this up once my 3 LBKs are empty again. Currently they're all fermenting.
I also got some of the new Brew Demon stuff recently. I have their Weizenbier brewing right now in one LBK, and their Wild Spirit IPA brewing in a 1 gallon jug. If that turns out good that will be great - $9 for a gallon of good IPA is a decent deal.
My other LBKs contain the Mr. Beer Boysenberry Tart recipe and the Blue Patriot recipe. The Blue Patriot one clogged up the cap with krausen and nearly exploded but I caught it in time and loosened it. We'll see how those turn out soon! I currently have the Chocolate Covered Cherries recipe carbonating. I've been drinking the American Light (decent lawnmower beer) and the Northwest Pale Ale with an added Pale Softpack which came out a bit under carbonated and a touch too sweet but drinkable.
I also got some of the new Brew Demon stuff recently. I have their Weizenbier brewing right now in one LBK, and their Wild Spirit IPA brewing in a 1 gallon jug. If that turns out good that will be great - $9 for a gallon of good IPA is a decent deal.
My other LBKs contain the Mr. Beer Boysenberry Tart recipe and the Blue Patriot recipe. The Blue Patriot one clogged up the cap with krausen and nearly exploded but I caught it in time and loosened it. We'll see how those turn out soon! I currently have the Chocolate Covered Cherries recipe carbonating. I've been drinking the American Light (decent lawnmower beer) and the Northwest Pale Ale with an added Pale Softpack which came out a bit under carbonated and a touch too sweet but drinkable.
I have brewed the Diablo IPA and its been fermenting for 3 weeks tomorrow. I looked into it this am and it has what appears to be white yeast colonies floating on top. Is this normal and how much longer should this sit before bottling?? Are the floaties normal because this is the first batch that this has occurred? And how would you remove them??
detlion1643
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Are these plans ok to make use of the keg I have sitting around:
*Brown Porter (hoping for slight chocolate flavor from malt - also good for color)
1lb Light DME
1lb Amber DME
.25lb Chocolate Malt (US) *about 350SRM
.25oz Chinook (60min)
.25oz Kent Golding (30min)
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Boil a little over 1 gallon of water. Add in DME, 60min Chinook, and chocolate malt. Remove chocolate malt at 30min and add other hops. After boil/cool, add to keg and top up with clean/boiled water to 2 gallons.
I ran the numbers through a BrewR android app with a 2 gallon batch size and 1 gallon boil and everything looks ok.
*Brown Porter (hoping for slight chocolate flavor from malt - also good for color)
1lb Light DME
1lb Amber DME
.25lb Chocolate Malt (US) *about 350SRM
.25oz Chinook (60min)
.25oz Kent Golding (30min)
------
Boil a little over 1 gallon of water. Add in DME, 60min Chinook, and chocolate malt. Remove chocolate malt at 30min and add other hops. After boil/cool, add to keg and top up with clean/boiled water to 2 gallons.
I ran the numbers through a BrewR android app with a 2 gallon batch size and 1 gallon boil and everything looks ok.
If you're only going to use 1 gallon for the boil, I'd use 1/2 the DME for the boil and add the other half at flameout (or you can add near the end of the boil if you want to boil it, but boiling isn't really necessary). If you want to keep the light DME light, I'd use that for the late extract addition.
detlion1643
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info bp! Looks like I have a batch to be making this weekend!
I have brewed the Diablo IPA and its been fermenting for 3 weeks tomorrow. I looked into it this am and it has what appears to be white yeast colonies floating on top. Is this normal and how much longer should this sit before bottling?? Are the floaties normal because this is the first batch that this has occurred? And how would you remove them??
They might settle in the fridge. Did you let it ferment for 3 weeks?
I bottled some of my porter in a 2-liter growler I got from Stone last weekend. Is there any difference in the procedure besides the amount of priming sugar to use, or anything to be aware of when bottling in a bigger container?
I bottled some of my porter in a 2-liter growler I got from Stone last weekend. Is there any difference in the procedure besides the amount of priming sugar to use, or anything to be aware of when bottling in a bigger container?
It will be 3 weeks tomorrow. Should i move the keg to the fridge to have them drop then pull it out and bottle?
Also during bottling what happens if you get some O2 into your beer when transferring from the keg to a bottling bucket? Will this make a huge difference in taste?
Also during bottling what happens if you get some O2 into your beer when transferring from the keg to a bottling bucket? Will this make a huge difference in taste?
I've never cold crashed, but if you've got stuff floating, cold crashing will generally get more to settle out. If it has been three weeks and it's done (either according to a hydrometer reading or the taste test), then cold crash and bottle.
Oxygen is needed in the early stages so the yeast can reproduce in a healthy manner (they use it to synthesize unsaturated fatty acids and sterols). Later in the process, oxygen can lead to earlier staling (wet cardboard taste).
If you're doing a Mr Beer sized batch, you'd have an immediate overflow, because you'd be pouring 5 gallons of liquid in a container that holds at most about 2.5 gallons.
If you're planning to do a 5 gallon batch, it would depend on what process you intend to follow. Are you talking about doing a full volume boil, are you planning to boil part of it, pour part in the fermenter, add the part you boiled, then top off with what's left?
If you boil it, you'll boil off most (if not all) of the alcohol. You'd have some flavor left, but what kind of flavor would be a bit of an unknown, since boiling it would change the flavor. If you're not boiling it, you'd be starting off with an alcohol content of whatever the beer had before. That may not be very hospitable to the yeast.
I don't think it's something I'd try, but that doesn't mean it can't be done.
What is a good yeast to use instead of the Mr. Beer stuff under the lid for temps in the mid 60s? I am going to be moving my fermentor into the basement where the temp sits in the mid 60s soon because the ambient temp in the room i now ferment in is getting into the high 60 and low 70s.
Also what size package? They have both 11g and 6g. Can you pitch the mr beer and say muntons together?
Also what size package? They have both 11g and 6g. Can you pitch the mr beer and say muntons together?
What yeast you use depends largely on what you want from it. What kind of beer are you trying to brew?
I generally use dry yeast. Others will have more knowledge about liquid strains.
I like Fermentis US-05 and Nottingham for a lot of "clean fermenting" ales. If the temperature will be below 60, I go with Nottingham, 60-65, I go with US-05. Last year, when it warmed up above that, I used some yeast I bottle harvested from some Red Tail Ale. This year, I'm going to try BRY-97.
If you like English Ales, Danstar Windsor or Fermentis S-04 are good choices.
For wheat beers, WB-06 or Munich are good choices.
If you're looking for kind of a general purpose yeast, Munton's and Cooper's are good choices and so is Fermentis S-33.
5-6 g is probably plenty for a Mr Beer sized batch. If the yeast comes in a 10-12 g packet, you can split it (sanitize the outside, carefully tape it shut and store in the fridge) if you'll be using it in a week or so. Pitching the full packet would not constitute overpitching (especially if you're not rehydrating).
How much you'll drink when you open the bottle?
Infection question. I have the Diablo and its fermented for 3 weeks. There is a ton of white floating things which i assume are yeast colonies although i have not had anything like this before. I tasted the brew and it was not pleasant, a bit sweet and the aftertaste should be hoppy but i can describe it as a stinging taste. If i put in fridge and cold crash it to have the particles drop and they don't does that mean an infection and i should just toss it??? Help please...
Can you post a photo of the white stuff? We might have better luck identifying it if we see it.
I'm no expert, but that looks like pellicle to me. If so, it's a toe of infection, but not necessarily the end of the world. You may end up with a shot beer instead of an IPA.
I wouldn't cold crash it. I'd just bottle, but be careful to stop before you get any of the pellicle in the bottles.
It may turn out to be very good, just not what you expected.
I wouldn't cold crash it. I'd just bottle, but be careful to stop before you get any of the pellicle in the bottles.
It may turn out to be very good, just not what you expected.
A shot beer is what happens when you try to type sour beer from a tablet and auto correct kicks in.
A toe of infection was supposed to be a sign of infection.
I'd still bottle it. Give it two months and taste it. If it's no good, give it another month.
Quick yeast question. I have a couple of mr beer recipes, Jamaica Mon, Howling Red, and Octoberfest deluxe that all use the standard yeast from mr beer. If i substitued say US 05 yeast for the mr beer yeast, will this make a big difference in taste?
I have a couple of batches now that still have the slight sweet flavor even after fermenting for 3 weeks and bottle carbing for 4 more. Also I used a bit less than the recommended 6 TBSP for carbing, 3/4 teaspoon per 12 oz bottle times 24. I used only 4 TBSPs. Thoughts??
I have a couple of batches now that still have the slight sweet flavor even after fermenting for 3 weeks and bottle carbing for 4 more. Also I used a bit less than the recommended 6 TBSP for carbing, 3/4 teaspoon per 12 oz bottle times 24. I used only 4 TBSPs. Thoughts??
Any time you change the yeast, it makes a difference. Mr Beer's yeast is now Cooper's Yeast, so the Mr Beer yeast bashing of years past is no longer applicable since the buyout last summer. That said, lots of brewers don't like Cooper's yeast either, but if it is fresh, I think it makes good beer. (I'm a fan of Cooper's commercial beers, so it isn't surprising that I like their yeast for homebrewing.) It's almost like an English yeast, but not quite. I personally wouldn't hesitate to use it in any of the kits as a general rule- but since you are asking, this could be a great time to try some different yeasts and get to know your little fungi buddies.
US05 tends to make a very clean beer. Lots of US craft breweries use that strain. It would be very good for the Howling Red.
For the Jamaica Mon and the Oktoberfest (assuming you want to mimic the style they are named for,) you could get a good lager yeast if you have precise temperature control. Or you could use Nottingham and keep the fermentation relatively cool (64 or so) and get a lager-like character from an ale yeast.
Or for kicks and giggles, get a good Belgian strain and turn that Oktoberfest into an Abbey ale.
As far as a slight sweetness, that could just be some malt character coming through. If you are worried that you aren't getting a complete fermentation, but a hydrometer and start checking your starting and final gravities. Using less priming sugar won't solve your problem if there even is one- you'll just have flatter beer.
Changing the yeast can make a big difference. US-05 is an American ale yeast. It's the dry version of the Chico strain (same yeast used for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale). It ferments cleanly, especially near the low end of the temperature range. I don't like a lot of esters and I do like APAs, so it's one of my favorite yeasts.
In my opinion, the Mr Beer sugar amounts are on the high side, and I generally use less when I bottle.
Thanks to both. I am going to order some US 05 and mabye a lager strain too for the octoberfest. What a good lager yeast for the high 50s and low 60s?? Saflager 23? I live in the NE and the basements up here only get in the mid 60s during the summer so the kegs will be hitting the basement for a bit.
As for the Mr beer yeast, i read on this thread that some ppl throw this in the bowl and kill it to use it as yeast food. Good? Bad?
Final question. Is it ok to use entire 11.5 grams in each batch considering that the packets under the lid are much smaller?
As for the Mr beer yeast, i read on this thread that some ppl throw this in the bowl and kill it to use it as yeast food. Good? Bad?
Final question. Is it ok to use entire 11.5 grams in each batch considering that the packets under the lid are much smaller?
If it's going to be in the high 50s to low 60s, I think I'd be tempted to go with Nottingham instead of a lager yeast. At those temperatures, you'll get a "lager like" ale with Nottingham.
Yeast that you don't want to use can be used as a source of nutrients for other yeast or you can save it for future batches. If you decide to use it as a nutrient, I'd add it to the boil to make sure it dies.
It's fine to use the full 11.5 g packet. If you'll brew again within a week or so, you can sanitize the packet, open it, use half, then tape it back up again. But if it's going to sit for a while after opening, a lot of the yeast will likely die off, so you may as well use it all.
I was just thinking today that I've never had a beer blow the swing-top open so strong as the beers I've brewed with MrB, so they must recommend a lot of priming sugar. Maybe I'll try some with less. How much, like 75% what they say?
I stopped measuring and started weighing a long time ago (and actually usually keg now) so I've forgotten exactly. I think I used somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 what was in teh book.
skidoo2003
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bzwyatt said:
I have been using 1tsp/12oz. But I'm also using corn sugar.
I just brewed, bottled and opened a couple of my first two batches of Mr. Beer, one a Stout and a Hefe and used the Mr. Beer recommendation of sugar, I used just table sugar, and didn't have any bottle bombs. Lucky?? IDK never done this before. The first stout had been bottle conditioned for 2 weeks and was still a little over cabonated, tried another a week later and they're pretty right on. I put one Hefe in the fridge last week and tried it after 4 days and it was not bad a little sweet/cidery but had the clove/banana taste so I'm giving them another week to bottle condition then I'll try another.
I consider the Mr beer recommendations highly carbonated, but there's a difference between highly carbonated and bottle bombs. Bottle bombs are more likely from bottling early before fermentation is finished or an infection.
Flogamocker
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I will be brewing this weekend and adding hops for the first time. Do I need to sanitize the muslin sack?
Ostomo517
Well-Known Member
Not if its going in the boil, the heat will take care of that
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