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Brandon9045

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Hello everyone, finally decided to join a brew forum so I can expand my knowledge of homebrewing.

And what a hobby it is, even though I've brewed over 100 gallons of beer I still consider myself new to the homebrew scene.

So, over the past few years me, my brother, and my father have been making some really great beer (atleast we think it is).

My father initially planted interest in us when he started buying mr. beer kits (trust me, I know what you're already going to say...lmao)

But hey, that's what started us so I can't put mr. beer down too much.

Mr. Beer seemed like it always had the same taste no matter what beer we made, and after a while of researching we came to find out we weren't really making beer we were just "mixing" it. The taste I know now, came from the yeast they provide, which is the SAME for every beer. No wonder they all had a similar taste.......

Now, fast forward about a year and a half from that point. That's when we started to venture into actual brewing, extract kits.

We got a 5 gallon stainless steel pot, nothing spectacular and began brewing extract kits right on the stove. But, even after that.....I still felt like we were missing out on an experience, an all-grain experience.

That's when we decided we needed some extra equipment like a burner and a new pot. So we bought a bayou burner, some propane, and an 8 gallon stainless steel pot with a ball-lock valve.

I'm glad we upgraded to all-grain equipment because the kits are a little cheaper and I like making my own recipes from scratch with the grains.

But.....there are still some things that bother me, so I'm hoping that people here can clear some things up for me.....

I tried to read about efficiency, it confuses me....I just don't get it, and I think I'm doing my beer kits wrong because of it. I still have a hard time grasping the whole concept, maybe it's what I kept reading that was confusing me. I still think I make really great beer, but I think I'm not grabbing the full potential out of my brews.

Another thing that confused me is the calculating of IBU's.....so many different equations....and I don't get exactly what all the variables are suppose to be.

OK, so you've got my background information, and from what you've read you might say I'm semi-experienced.

So let's walk through my brew process:

Let's say....I'm brewing an all-grainer.

0. Think of recipe, research basic recipe and build upon that.

1. Go to beer store, pick up grains, yeast, hops, muslin sacks

2. Sanitize all equipment thoroughly. Smack my wyeast pack.

3. Fill up pot with water and use ph correcting solution to bring ph to 5.2

4. Bring water to roughly 155 degrees, depending on beer style.....

5. I use BIAB method, so naturally for this step I will put grains in a sack or multiple sacks and steep for an hour making sure to lightly agitate the grains every couple minutes for optimal extraction of sugars.

6. Once the steep is over I discard the grains and crank the flame on my burner up to start the boil, watching carefully so a boil-over doesn't occur.

7. Start my hour boil, adding hops at the neccessary intervals according to the recipe.

8. After the boil I cool the wort down as quickly as possible, getting it to the premium temperature for pitching the yeast....also add any top-off water to make it to the 5 gallon mark.

9. Ferment according to recipe.

10. Bottle or keg.

11. Once carbonated, ENJOY!



So that essentially is my whole brewing process for 5 gallon batches.

Here's my cause for concern......I don't think I'm using the correct amount of water when I steep my grains, I always use to think it doesn't matter that much as long as you steep correctly and when you finished boiling, your wort wasn't over 5 gallons.

From my experience I've realized that higher gravity worts don't boil off as much as lower gravity ones, which makes perfect sense. I made an imperial stout recently that I'm going to age for christmas and I steeped my grains in 6 gallons and it boiled down to only 5 gallons.....which was TOO close for comfort.

I haven't really found a definitive equation for how much steeping water to use versus amount of grains/extract syrup.

For example, I just attempted a Jai Alai clone last week. I had about 11 1/2 pounds of grains for which I used about 6 gallons of water to steep. When I was finished with my boil, I had to add about two gallons of top-off water to my fermenter.

Am I doing my beer kits correctly? They always taste great and I can definitely get the alcohol I'm looking for, and if anyone can dumb down some things for me like the efficiency model that would be much appreciated.
 
I have a 7.5 gallon Turkey kettle that I use for 3 gallon BIAB batches. Never done 5 on a stovetop. But your steps look fine to me.
 
I've upgraded to an 8 gallon pot, that should be sufficient for 5 gallon batch wouldn't you say?
 
You really want to start your boil with close to 7 gallons in the pot. From what I understand most BIAB'ers will rinse the grain bag with 170 degree water into the pot to get all the sugars out and get to their Pre-boil volume that way. With an 8 gallon pot you will have to careful about boil overs. If you finish your boil with about 5.5 gallons then will get a full 5 gallons or more into your fermentor.
 
I understand what you're saying but IDK an 8 gallon pot is pretty big dude....

I've had SUCCESS already with it the way I do it....two pots is a little extreme since I'm outside on a burner with a huge pot anyway.

SO, with that being said, never had a problem with boiling over, etc.

However, I guess my only real concern was am I getting all the sugars I can with the water I steep with.....

In a previous post I saw about 1-2 quarts of water per pound of grains...let's use that equation for one of my previous brews....

ie: 11 1/2 lbs grains......equals about 23 quarts of water give or take....I was using 2 quart conversion so.....23 quarts equals roughly 5.75 gallons....

After doing that little equation I'd say I hit my target with 6 gallons, which boiled down quite a bit and I used 2 gallons to top off with....

As for how efficient my extraction techniques were in that particular brew, it was suppose to come out to 7.5% ABV and I got about 7.2% so I'd say I did pretty well! :mug:

I was pretty much on the right track with the water, but now that I have that equation of 1-2 qts. per lb. of grain I think that will really help so that I don't use too much water for my initial boil and then end up with more than 5 gallons at the end....boy that would suck.

Thanks for that tip, that's something that has been bothering the crap out of me...even though my beer always turned out fine I thought maybe I was just missing out on "something"
 
I guess an 8 gal kettle is quite large, and you are outside.....Even better !!.......I still do my stuff on a stovetop, got my 7 Gallon Turkey kettle just recently for less than $25 on Amazon, I use my smaller one to sparge in now......
 
Good deal mang, yeah I mean if you have the equipment and brewing on your stove is ok with you then by all means.

In my case I have three heads on this beer so, initially investing in a burner and new pot offset the cost of using extract kits, so we could eventually buy more beer kits.

Now I can buy a kit outright for $30 including EVERYTHING instead of about $50-60 for an extract of the same recipe.....DEPENDING on the recipe, I'm just using those numbers for a....normal kit I guess, like a 5% beer.

But as an example I bought a $70 RIS recipe extract because they were out of the grains I wanted to use, but the kit would only have been $45.......that's an astonishingly large difference of $25 bucks for the same beer.

See I don't care about what's easier, etc, etc. All-grain brewing is the final frontier for us and we can only get better! :)

Ahhhhhh also another thing I wanted to talk about......I recently have been reading about what happens when you use a lager yeast in a beer but don't ferment it at lagers temperatures.....

Interestingly enough you create what is called a steam beer.....which tastes more like an ale then a lager....I plan on experimenting some more with those.

I brewed a Kolsch clone extract kit and instead of lagering it, I just fermented it like I do my ales....

One thing about lager yeast.....it ferments from the bottom up, we had it coming up through our airlock, had I known it was going to do that I would've used a blow-off hose which I highly recommened if you're brewing this type of beer.

Also I didn't know what I was doing when I brewed that beer, I thought I completely ruined it because I wasn't fermenting it correctly.

Turns out......it was a great refreshing easily drinkable steam beer.

I think I'm going to try that with a couple of other kits to see what flavors I can develop and see if I can come up with something spectacular one day.
 
To your question, when mashing (you are technically mashing, not just steeping) I believe the optimal amount of water is 1.25-1.5 qt/lb of grain. So 12lbs grain requires 15-18 qts or 3.75-4.5 gallons. I think this results in the best efficiency, all other things being equal. After that, you pull the grains and rinse with hot (~170*) water which drains into your brew kettle. I rinse until I get to my desired boil volume. Then too up as necessary after the boil.
 
You really want to start your boil with close to 7 gallons in the pot. From what I understand most BIAB'ers will rinse the grain bag with 170 degree water into the pot to get all the sugars out and get to their Pre-boil volume that way. With an 8 gallon pot you will have to careful about boil overs. If you finish your boil with about 5.5 gallons then will get a full 5 gallons or more into your fermentor.

Yup, during my biab phase, I would mash with grain in 10Gallon pot with water at a 1.25qt/lb ratio. Rinse with 170 water and get about 7 gallon pre boil. Bag was getting heavy and pot was getting too small for larger brews.
 
To your question, when mashing (you are technically mashing, not just steeping) I believe the optimal amount of water is 1.25-1.5 qt/lb of grain. So 12lbs grain requires 15-18 qts or 3.75-4.5 gallons. I think this results in the best efficiency, all other things being equal. After that, you pull the grains and rinse with hot (~170*) water which drains into your brew kettle. I rinse until I get to my desired boil volume. Then too up as necessary after the boil.

+1 plus squeeze the bag, get all the yummy liquid out.
 
Hello everyone, finally decided to join a brew forum so I can expand my knowledge of homebrewing.

And what a hobby it is, even though I've brewed over 100 gallons of beer I still consider myself new to the homebrew scene.

So, over the past few years me, my brother, and my father have been making some really great beer (atleast we think it is).

My father initially planted interest in us when he started buying mr. beer kits (trust me, I know what you're already going to say...lmao)

But hey, that's what started us so I can't put mr. beer down too much.

Mr. Beer seemed like it always had the same taste no matter what beer we made, and after a while of researching we came to find out we weren't really making beer we were just "mixing" it. The taste I know now, came from the yeast they provide, which is the SAME for every beer. No wonder they all had a similar taste.......

Now, fast forward about a year and a half from that point. That's when we started to venture into actual brewing, extract kits.

We got a 5 gallon stainless steel pot, nothing spectacular and began brewing extract kits right on the stove. But, even after that.....I still felt like we were missing out on an experience, an all-grain experience.

That's when we decided we needed some extra equipment like a burner and a new pot. So we bought a bayou burner, some propane, and an 8 gallon stainless steel pot with a ball-lock valve.

I'm glad we upgraded to all-grain equipment because the kits are a little cheaper and I like making my own recipes from scratch with the grains.

But.....there are still some things that bother me, so I'm hoping that people here can clear some things up for me.....

I tried to read about efficiency, it confuses me....I just don't get it, and I think I'm doing my beer kits wrong because of it. I still have a hard time grasping the whole concept, maybe it's what I kept reading that was confusing me. I still think I make really great beer, but I think I'm not grabbing the full potential out of my brews.

Another thing that confused me is the calculating of IBU's.....so many different equations....and I don't get exactly what all the variables are suppose to be.

OK, so you've got my background information, and from what you've read you might say I'm semi-experienced.

So let's walk through my brew process:

Let's say....I'm brewing an all-grainer.

0. Think of recipe, research basic recipe and build upon that.

1. Go to beer store, pick up grains, yeast, hops, muslin sacks

2. Sanitize all equipment thoroughly. Smack my wyeast pack.

3. Fill up pot with water and use ph correcting solution to bring ph to 5.2

4. Bring water to roughly 155 degrees, depending on beer style.....

5. I use BIAB method, so naturally for this step I will put grains in a sack or multiple sacks and steep for an hour making sure to lightly agitate the grains every couple minutes for optimal extraction of sugars.

6. Once the steep is over I discard the grains and crank the flame on my burner up to start the boil, watching carefully so a boil-over doesn't occur.

7. Start my hour boil, adding hops at the neccessary intervals according to the recipe.

8. After the boil I cool the wort down as quickly as possible, getting it to the premium temperature for pitching the yeast....also add any top-off water to make it to the 5 gallon mark.

9. Ferment according to recipe.

10. Bottle or keg.

11. Once carbonated, ENJOY!



So that essentially is my whole brewing process for 5 gallon batches.

Here's my cause for concern......I don't think I'm using the correct amount of water when I steep my grains, I always use to think it doesn't matter that much as long as you steep correctly and when you finished boiling, your wort wasn't over 5 gallons.

From my experience I've realized that higher gravity worts don't boil off as much as lower gravity ones, which makes perfect sense. I made an imperial stout recently that I'm going to age for christmas and I steeped my grains in 6 gallons and it boiled down to only 5 gallons.....which was TOO close for comfort.

I haven't really found a definitive equation for how much steeping water to use versus amount of grains/extract syrup.

For example, I just attempted a Jai Alai clone last week. I had about 11 1/2 pounds of grains for which I used about 6 gallons of water to steep. When I was finished with my boil, I had to add about two gallons of top-off water to my fermenter.

Am I doing my beer kits correctly? They always taste great and I can definitely get the alcohol I'm looking for, and if anyone can dumb down some things for me like the efficiency model that would be much appreciated.

Missed step 5a. Rinse the grains. That's where you get the extra liquid and sugars instead of topping off after the boil. Don't want to water down your brew. :(
Doing all this, why not just get a 10gallon cooler and make a mash tun. I did this and made life easier for me.
Also, have some fermcap on hand. Will help prevent boil over if you boil too hard. With my 10Gallon pot, I can sometimes boil over when I'm not paying attention with 6.75 gallons of water.
Good luck.
 
Hm I did forget to mention something, when I do my mashing I raise my temp to 165 at the very end for an extra 10 mins which I think is almost equivalent to 170 rinse which I'll have to try next time....appreciate the input, and whenever I need to top off, my beer never gets watered down so I must be getting sufficient efficiency.

Thanks for all your guys' help

-Brandon
 
Just increasing the temp doesn't rinse, though. You have to make sure to pull out the last of the sugars with clean water.
 
Hm I did forget to mention something, when I do my mashing I raise my temp to 165 at the very end for an extra 10 mins which I think is almost equivalent to 170 rinse which I'll have to try next time....appreciate the input, and whenever I need to top off, my beer never gets watered down so I must be getting sufficient efficiency.

Thanks for all your guys' help

-Brandon

Did you also squeeze your sack. Sack of grains that is
 
I do my best to get someone else to squeeze it for me. Unfortunately, SWMBO doesn't care for the smell, so I brew when she's not home.
 
:smack: Ok....so I guess I've just been doing it halfway right.

I've got an idea now.....since I have 3 pots....

My big pot is 8 gallons, medium is 5 gallons, then I have a small 2 gallon pot.

So theoretically I could heat water to 170 in the 2 gallon pot, take the grains from my 8 gallon pot put them in the 5 gallon and then rinse with the water from the 2 gallon pot......giving me my extra sugar that I would then add back to my 8 gallon and start my boil.

My only other question would be how do I figure how much extra water to rinse with?
 
:smack: Ok....so I guess I've just been doing it halfway right.

I've got an idea now.....since I have 3 pots....

My big pot is 8 gallons, medium is 5 gallons, then I have a small 2 gallon pot.

So theoretically I could heat water to 170 in the 2 gallon pot, take the grains from my 8 gallon pot put them in the 5 gallon and then rinse with the water from the 2 gallon pot......giving me my extra sugar that I would then add back to my 8 gallon and start my boil.

My only other question would be how do I figure how much extra water to rinse with?


I told you that another pot was needed...........lol :rockin:
 
^ It couldn't hurt doing a little sparge over the grains, more sugar is always a good thing.......Raising that efficiency is key !........
 
Hm I did forget to mention something, when I do my mashing I raise my temp to 165 at the very end for an extra 10 mins which I think is almost equivalent to 170 rinse which I'll have to try next time....appreciate the input, and whenever I need to top off, my beer never gets watered down so I must be getting sufficient efficiency.

Thanks for all your guys' help

-Brandon

I would try not to get too worried about efficiency. It is just another number to chase. That being said, there is value in knowing the approximate efficiency of your process. It will help you adjust your grain bill to your efficiency for a desired gravity.

I noticed you asked about efficiency in your first post and I'm not sure if I remember anyone answering you. If so, my apologies on the redundancy. If not, I will try my best. Imagine you are holding a single little malted grain. Take a look at that little guy. He has the potential to yield a specific amount of sugar from the mashing/sparging process. Let's use some easy numbers for the sake of this discussion and say that little grain can yield 100 sugars if you get 100% of his potential out of him. But, you can't get 100% out of him. You only get 65 sugars. Okay, your efficiency is 65%.

Now, obviously, we mash a lot more than one grain. We mash pounds of grain. Knowing how many pounds of grain you have you can still caclulate the theoretical maximum fermentable sugars you can extract (100%) and compare that to the actual amount you extracted...efficiency. Or, you can work it in reverse. Knowing your process usually only yields an efficiency of, say, 68%. You can calculate how many pounds of a specific type of malt you need to reach a target gravity for your batch.

There are a couple of different types of efficiency you can calculate. You can calculate your mash efficiency by itself or brewhouse efficiency. Brewhouse efficiency measures the efficiency of your entire system process. Losses to trub, evaporation, etc are taken into account in your brewhouse efficiency. Here are a couple of good links that helped me to understand efficiency:

http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/10/26/brewhouse-efficiency-for-all-grain-beer-brewing/

http://hbd.org/uchima/tech/efficiency.html

I hope that helps. :mug:
 
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