Search results

Are you looking to 'control' or 'measure' the rate? I measure my rate of fly sparging and then manually adjust the outlet valve to control it. The scale measures weight and transmits this to the RS232 port of my pc where I wrote a VB app to convert this to weight/time => flow rate.

Thats how I do it! I can tweak strike temps, do step decoctions and raise to mash out temps without ever adding hot water or using direct flames. Usually I just do single step mashing but I always raise to mashout temps (never had a stuck sparge!). I can raise from 155 to 168 in less than 10...

I'm trying to lower my typican NINE hour brew days. I think to lower my times I need more powerful burners to get the waters and wort to boiling temperatures faster and also I need a counter flow chiller to reduce my 35-45 minute cool down times to 15 or so (at least that would be the target)...

I see you have already ordered per above posts but to throw in my 2 cents... I was concerned with Ultra Flow and their ability to provide repair parts in the future since they were having so many problems with their manuafacturing. I ordered Perlic and although I cannot compare them to the...

I take mine completely apart to clean them. If you are getting a drip then you should run a pipe cleaner through it to make sure there is nothing on the sealing surface and also, take the oring off (the one that makes the seal for dispensing) and clean it up. I put a small bit of o-ring lube...

Not quite an introduction as it is an announcement... Well, I did it! I finally got out of hicksville and on to Huntsville! I am moving from Dyersburg TN to Huntsville AL. and would really like to meet some homebrewers in the surrounding area. If you are within an hour or so, lemme...

In my case, I use a steam ring at the bottom of my MLT for step infusions. Stirring helps make consistent temperature through the mash. During the rest at 168f, no stirring is done and the bed has time to settle and prepare to act as a filter. I don't stir while sparging. I would love to...

The yeast are still there for force carbonation while kegging unless it is filtered out mechanically or with some additive. Is there something about the 'state' the yeast are in which would reduce their ability to 'stabilize' the beer as it ages since it is not actively working on priming...

Iv'e now been drinking off of two different kegs in my kegerator for a couple of weeks now... well, back to the thread's title... If you can, keg instead of bottle! Many good points brought up about bottling and obviously bottling will never go away. I mention this only for those of...

Replace the o-ring! With o-ring seals, you should not have to go very tight in order to get a perfect seal. As a matter of fact, o-rings are easily damaged by over tightening and that is one of the most common modes of failure of an o-ring. If you 'hear' hissing, yeah... that is WAY too much...

The barley crusher documentation recommends 300-500. I don't think they base these speeds on equipment breakage but rather on a quality grind. While researching prior to motorizing my Barley Crusher, I found that it and other brands of mills usually specified upper speeds between 400 and 600...

Yesterday was the first time I put my beer into my new kegging system. WOW, what an improvement over bottling. This has really increased my 'enjoyment factor' of brewing. I would highly recommend this to all. I will be carbonating cold at 11psi instead of force carbonating so I am now...

Yes! PBW and a toilet brush (unused toilet brush). A good soak will do the majority of the work for you but I like to scrub mine as well. I use this for my beer lines but since the origin of your lines are unknown (guessing from reading your post), I would replace them with new lines. BLC...

I used a light coating of lube on all orings and the relief and poppets while re-assemblying the kegs. I pressed up one keg to 30psi and put a gauge on it. The next day it was down to 24psi and the next day down to 23psi. There is no fluid in the keg, just the gas. Has anyone tested in this...

Great product Its easy so do it between each keg.

I went to a winery shop where they would sell you the ingreedients and you had to pitch the yeast yourself... other than that, they did everything including the aging and bottling. Of course, the 'storage' was very expensive :tank:

Do you fill yours with water and then bump up the pressure for leak tests or just full of CO2? I'm probably concerned over 2 cents worth of gas here so slap me if need be! :cross: Will the water absorb CO2 and cause a pressure drop as with beer which would falsely lead one to believe there...

Look at this stuff The CO2 line is resistant to CO2 and will not degrade, brittle and crack as typical hose from the hardware store will. 5/16 ID is typical. The beer line here is 3/16 ID and will not give the off flavors which have been mentioned. Both hoses are rather thick walled to...

I built mine with peltier coolers. It is a two chamber unit and each chamber can hold two carboys or four corny's. There is a seperate peltier and thermostat on each chamber but they share a power supply so only one cooler runs at a time. One runs for an hour and then the the other one runs for...

You already expressed the concern over the small diameter... keep an eye on it. It could very easily get clogged just as an air lock would. :cross: Go get some 1" tubing. Fits perfect in the carboy.