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Want!

I like conicals.

Hmm Google changed some things on me. I edited the post, they should display now.

For the record here is the recirculation arm.

I'm sure you have already figured it out, but I mounting the heating element just as Kal did (see: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements) I made sure to position it low enough so it doesn't interfer with the basket. Basically the bottom of the electrical box is just above the bottom...

Ok I just looked over all the pictures, my wiring diagram and previous comments and it looks like my wiring diagram and the first wiring job I did differ. The first wiring job had the black leg from the output of the main contactor go to the element contactor first and then the output of element...

Looking good! Glad I could be of some help and inspiration.

Just saw this as well. Yes that will work as long as you get a contactor with 120VAC contacts (which the contactor you linked has.)

In!

In please

I just replaced mine this past week after having it for about 2.5 years. The only issue I encountered was a small crack where my the tubing would bend coming out of the kettle ball valve to the pump, I suspect there were more cracks or defects because my pump was cavitating often. I probably...

14,666.5 + 5 gallon 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew) + 5 gallon YHC English Summer Ale = 14,676.5

So after a frustrating brew day a couple weeks back, I decided to completely overhaul my setup. I had been having problems with my RTD and with some wires coming loose, not to mention what looked like bad connections on the Hot lines which caused some melting of a plug. I decided the best course...

I can't speak to code but I can't think of any other safety concerns of using a non-locking connector. The system is working well, but I am probably going to rewire it in the coming future. Some of my terminals were not crimped very well and some wires have come loose when I have transported...

hio3791 is correct with one modification. Since you have a 240VAC Coil you will instead of F being neutral it needs to be the other hot leg.

The outlet I used for the pump was not a "dryer" plug, it was a NEMA L5-15 plug and receptacle. By contrast a typical US household 120V is a NEMA 5-15 (no L). The difference is that the L5-15 is locking and the plug will hold in place, which is nice to have since the outlet is coming out of the...

In!

First, the fan is direct current (DC), the bulb is alternating current (AC). Second even if they were both AC or DC the voltages are not the same. You need a AC to DC adapter in order to hook up the fan.

This beer turned out very good. Dry hops create a great aroma that jumps out immediately after it is poured. It is malty upfront with a lingering bitterness in the background that is not overpoewring. This is a very drinkable beer, I will definitely have to put this beer into my brew rotation.

With 100% Vienna, or just part Vienna? My next batch will be 50% 2 row, 50% Vienna. 100% Vienna sounds interesting. I have not tried other yeast strains, most of my beers use 1056. I will have to try both suggestions.