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Noticed this at the bottom of my AHA email today. One particularly interesting note from the report was that WLP775 didn't come out on top for "consumer preference" in any of the tastings they conducted.

This looks really nice, and if you don't have a basement or a garage, it's hard to find a nice-looking solution for this problem. This is definitely a nice-looking solution. That being said, all I can think is how you could buy somewhere between four and six nice refrigerators on Craigslist for...

Just threw this one on Craigslist, automatic $10 discount if you find it here! http://newjersey.craigslist.org/for/3763983963.html

Whoops! EDIT: 3/16" tubing.

I have a keezer with a Johnson digital temp controller set to "shut-off" mode at 36F, probe shoved into an empty bottle and the differential set fairly tight (3 degrees). My secondary temp monitor reads 38 about 90% of the time, dipping to 36 right after the freezer runs and just barely flashing...

Important: What temperature is the keg? You mentioned 42F, but is that constant? 9PSI @ 32F is WAY different than 9PSI @ 42F. Even with a 10-degree swing, the beer could be absorbing CO2 as the temp drops and then over-pressurizing the keg when the temp rises. Read Chapter 5 of the Draft...

I happen to know a guy who owns a huge metal finishing plant nearby. Just a big old building filled with giant boiling vats of acid and other exciting things. I'm thinking of bringing him all my cut parts and having him strip the plating off and do a heat-resistant finish, whether it's some kind...

By the way - I read through all 62 pages of this thread, and didnt see any updates/photos from the engine/bbq-black painted builds. I'd be curious to see how the paint holds up, and perhaps some photos of how bad it flakes and/or peels from direct flame exposure.

Ordered the parts from McMaster. Unfortunately work is nuts right now, and I'll be in California for a couple weeks, so it'll probably be late May before I get to brew on this thing!

For me at least, the issue was not an infection. I've noticed the issue in my beers previously, but I realized after going back through my notes that it's only happened during certain (cold weather) times of year. I've never done any kind of filtration or treatment on the tap water before using...

I actually disagree entirely! But I hate to pit the two against one another. It's a lot better to keep everyone on the same team, ya dig?

I'm very curious to see if this fixed it for you. I had EXACTLY the same issue you described (especially with this strange phenolic flavor manifesting in burps). Even in kegged batches, it was a problem. Finally pinned it on the use of tap water for my sanitizer solution and started using...

Kane is blowing all other NJ breweries out of the water right now. Head High is one of my absolute favorite IPAs on either coast. And as rpryor said, they are doing amazing things with stouts (and porters, and belgian dark strong ale, and everything else they brew). Mike Kane loves talking about...

I'm in!

This! Hauling EVERYTHING up and down a flight of stairs and outside really makes the whole experience a *****, even with extract. I've done AG, it worked well, but it's just so horribly impractical for me that I'll never do it again (until I move somewhere I can build a dedicated brew room).

Good point!

'User' in this case means he who will be pressing the buttons - not he who is wiring the controller. Of course, in our case, these two roles are played by the same guy. ;)

Remember that cold air sinks to the bottom. Even modest insulation behind whatever wood you use for the replacement lid would be sufficient to match or exceed the stock lid's insulating performance.

You can lock the controller settings by shorting terminals 5-6.

What probe is best for the keezer? I'm not really sure what the difference is among the eight or so probes offered.