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Houston, Austin, DFW only. $120 - Blichmann Top Tier floor burner w/ regulator $100 - 10-gallon cooler MLT with all stainless hardware including a recirculation port in the lid $210 if you buy both.

It also seems like upgrading to a conical will make it much easier to pitch an appropriate and consistent amount of yeast. How are you handling yeast pitching right now? Do you just pitch by weight and divide the total amount of yeast by 14 or however many carboys you are using?

If you watch Austin Homebrew (subscribe to emails), they put these on sale every so often for something like $12 each I think. I would just wait for a deal like that if you're interested - they're really nice tools to have, but non-essential and $60 is a lot.

Beer is different than wort, no? Edit: meant to reply to SimonB

We have done this before, but wanted to try cascading this time to take advantage of HERMS recirculation/temp control. We're in the go for it camp too, will report back on Sunday with success stories.

Bump for the morning crowd? Otherwise, we'll let you all know how it goes!

My friend and I have essentially identical brew setups, water cooler-based eHERMS with 10-gallon MLTs having standard SS false bottoms. We'd like to brew some 10-gallon (or larger) batches of higher-ABV beers for which a single 10-gallon MLT is not enough. My thought was that we could gravity...

Your link directs to a replacement punch part. It seems that this is what you would actually need: http://www.blackbookoftools.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=145563 I assume it was just much cheaper when you bought it?

Any affordable larger-diameter roller mills you suggest?

If using dried cherries, does anyone have suggestions about a) good vendors (no preservatives, other stuff that will mess w/ the beer) and b) dosage? It would seem that a dry # goes farther than a fresh #, but who knows. Thanks.

Currently I buy milled grain from my LHBS. I ended up with a much higher pre-boil volume than I was expecting. 10 gallons water in, 15.75# of grain so just under 2 gallons of absorption, approx 0.75 gallon dead space below false bottom, for a theoretical pre-boil volume of about 7.25 gallons...

I have done quite a bit of searching to try to determine whether 4 pin locks will fit, but have not been able to find anything conclusive. The only kegs I seem to be able to buy for a reasonable price are converted pin locks (pin lock body, ball lock connections). I plan on building a collar, so...

I have done quite a bit of searching to try to determine whether 4 pin locks will fit, but have not been able to find anything conclusive. The only kegs I seem to be able to buy for a reasonable price are converted pin locks (pin lock body, ball lock connections). I plan on building a collar, so...

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I have a moderate amount of experience rinsing yeast from batches, but am relatively new to sour styles. I'm curious about what people out there are doing to keep their wild yeast and bacteria thriving and ready to add to a freshly made batch of wort. Rather than rely on repitching onto a funky...

I've taken a look at both my 525 and my 575 faucets, and it seems that the 575 does everything the 525 does (i.e., pours beer normally), but with the added functionality of being able to push back on the handle for the "creamer" feature. All this does is move a piston, which exposes a fine grate...

Just to update, if anyone is interested. I took a sample about three weeks ago for tasting purposes and, a few days after that, noticed a growth on the surface of the (what I'm now calling) vegetal matter on the top of the beer. This appeared to be a reaction to exposure to oxygen, as it did not...

If you have the fridge space, cold crashing 24-48 hours before bottling has worked very well for me. The hops sink, the beer clears, and then careful siphoning as you get near the cake on the bottom should keep the beer mostly hop-free into your bottling bucket. As for time, I think you'll get...

And in the future, a warm water rinse of the bottle immediately after pouring the beer to a glass should suffice to keep them clean. I let them dry on my dishwasher rack and then put a piece of foil over the mouth to keep debris out. When I have enough to fill my oven, I toss them in to a cold...

+1, the CO2 produced fermenting a 1.050 beer is on the order of hundreds of liters IIRC. Over-sized fermenters are fine for primary, only concern would be racking 5 gallons of beer to this for secondary/conditioning. Wouldn't do that.