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That’s a discussion on fermentation. This was about strike temp , mash in, & maintaining temp for creating a wort. This equipment is made for repeatability.

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting. 100% Angle of ball valve or flow rate. 8 0’clock position. Change as required. Heat power setting. 65-70 percent PID on/off. Off...

For the Brewzilla the HED (heat exchanger), & the Bluetooth thermometer. This combination provides better control of temps for your mash. I have been very happy since I added these two items. They are inexpensive.

Are trying to buy one or the other?

Stick with Brewzilla. I have a number of people trying to figure out how it works. If you’ve got a Brewzilla. Work through the learning curve. Both units have learning curves. What do you need to know?

Brewing today. I am 30 min into it. I have been on a mash temp of 153. The range of my temps have been within +\-1 f. With 20 min at 153. Just checked again and I’m 153.4 & holding.

Thanks. It works great. It does not mean that you cannot looking at lower temps. It just means that the repeatability starts to drop in those ranges.

Something I forgot to mention. Because we are trying to get the best repeatability on our beers I looked at the sensor on the base of these units. Repeatability is the key to temp control. The sensor on the base of the unit can be keyed into what we do in homebrew. Look at the low calibration...

I also am no newbie. I have the 35l version & found it to have a large learning curve. I brew all the time and each batch presents its ow challenges. I have had good success with the HED & Bluetooth thermometer. I have to note that I also use a precision analogue thermometer to read to the...

Everything works great with these settings. With the Bluetooth probe, HED, an a precision analogue thermometer as as verification probe I can keep track of temperature differentials very easily and adjust temperature and recirc accordingly to fine tune the brew session Everything settles in...

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting 65-70 depending on variables Angle of ball valve or flow rate. Approximately 60% Heat power setting. 65-70 PID on/off. Off Ambient...

Neoprene jacket yes/no. Yes HED yes/no. Yes BT probe yes/no. Yes Temperature hysteresis setting. 1.0f Temperature differential setting. 1.0f Pump power setting 65-70 depending on variables Angle of ball valve or flow rate. Approximately 60% Heat power setting. 65-70 PID on/off. Off Ambient...

I’m brewing tomorrow & I’ll let you know.

I had many problems with the last firmware update. I had to go into my controls & reset to my original settings. Until I did this I was unable to get a stable temp setting form my mash with the Bluetooth probe. I lost that brew session on my 35l unit. Hard lesson to learn.

I use 1.5 qts per lb. Then sparge with about 2 gallons. I don’t consider dead space because it drains completely.

The tiny poppet o-rings I don’t mess with. Having sold poppet valves in the fluid power industry, I know that it is much better to replace the poppet.

I got the CIP CLEANER & found that it was only good for rinsing. Because I don’t want an extra step, I’m not using it.

I put the grain bag on the outside of the tun. The bag will the capture any fine grains that make through the tun screen. After you raise the tun and sparge your grains &drain them, the grain bag is used to contain the hop additions during your boil. This provides for the greatest hop...

I have the Gen4 35l. It’s been a great unit to work with. I am a Hands-on type of person. Because it’s an all-in-one design, I was drawn to it. When I moved into my current place I did not have room for a three vessel system anymore. I have programmed many controls during my career. I found the...

I use buna only. I also keep a variety of all seals & poppet replacements.