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If you don't have anything to control your fermentation temperature, I would go that route.

43 been brewing for over 10 years, seriously about 5 years. Have a 3 year old and 2 year old twins so brew days sporadic.

Your numbers a very similar to mine before I got a grain mill. I would typically be around 67% no sparge. If I wanted better efficiency I would just sparge in a second pot with 1 to 2 gallons of water as my kettle was coming to a boil, that would up my efficiency another 6-8% getting to around...

Sounds perfectly normal, most fermentation is done in the first 3 to 4 days.

Yeah, I am aware of the DMS issue but I have never noticed in any of my beers. My wort is usually around 180 when I start my flameout hops.

If you know the diameter of your kettle there is no need to do markings. I use the priceless BIAB calculator. It will give you the height of one gallon of water as well as your height for total water needed, post sparge and post boil. I just use a clean measuring tape. Although if I could...

I hope it gets a chance to mellow. Mine would always start oxidizing around about 2 weeks after carbonation. I now use a beer gun to bottle in a closed system, have had no oxidation issues sense. You mentioned using hop flowers, I have seen others suggest to avoid whole cone hops, remember...

Same a bfabry go over temp a little and stir. When temp comes down dough in, this helps eliminate hot spots. Also use the priceless calculator.

As to the haze, from my experience it is actually the the grain. I save second running and freeze it for my yeast starters I have a yeast slurry (5th gen 1318) in my fridge right now that is spot on in color to Bearded Iris Denali Vision. It has never had a hop touch the yeast. I over build...

I used a bubble air lock once with 1318, saw it was going to get out of hand and switched to a blow off tube before it made a mess. Never thought about using one of those again. I tend to leave it a 66 for the duration my brews usually finish at 1.016.

No problem, a second pot may be necessary but you can run the numbers ahead of time on some software. Priceless brew in a bag calculator is really good. You should read the the below thread, taught me a lot...

Not sure how you could insulate your kettle to solve that issue. When I brewed on my stove I would usually boil about 3.5 to 4 gallons and then top off with water to my desired final volume. You do loss some hop utilization, I think I tended to use about 15% more hops versus full boil. But...

The IBU level is about at the minimum level that I find interesting (I am a bit of a hop head) but it is still approachable for those that are not. I think it is pretty good balance and I will leave it that range for future brews.

Thanks for the recipe, I have brewed it twice. Was really popular with everyone who has tried it. It's now my summer lawn mower beer.

Basically the take home for me is if you can limit your iron and cooper you should be able to reduce the amount of oxidation as well. I have since noticed that both wheat and oats are higher in iron than barley. Is it a meaningful amount, I don't know. I will also decrease or eliminate the...

The pdf is 3 KB to large. When I have more time I will see what I can do, maybe just copy paste the more relavant parts.

Thanks for the fedback brewstergal. I would not expect any one thing to be a magic bullet for oxidation as beer is incredibly complex. But as you say it is another tool. I found this paper the other day that I have been slowly reading through...

A recent batch I brewed mostly oxidized after a couple weeks in bottle. Ironically almost all of the last few bottles I had (6 out of the last 7 bottles) did not oxidize. Which makes me believe a slight tweek in my process could be improved to prevent the oxidation. I however don't know what...

I second the oven recommendation when I brewed in a 20 qt pot that is what I used. You just want the oven warm, it is such a small space you aren't going to lose much heat at all. I would probable iron out the kinks in my system before I would worry about water chemistry as long as you water...

I think Pete is saying that perhaps a rise in temperature forced more CO2 out of the beer while it was sealed. CO2 is less disolvable in warmer liquids. I don't believe it would have required a rise in temp I see my yeast cake bubble frequently when I bottle. But a temp increase would have...