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I know it isn't a definite answer, but it really just depends. This would be for 2-3 year old hops and older. I grow 16 different varieties and some I cut back and some I don't. Hops are traditionally grown between the 55th and 35th parallel. Outside those latitudes, things will change...

Nope. Had to use a thermocouple

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I second, where are you located?

I need a few ounces of well aged hops for a lambic. Type doesn't matter as long as they have no aroma and are past the cheesy state.

Anyone know where you can get a stainless temperature probe for a ranco controller? Brewers Hardware doesn't make the anymore.

Love this beer and with help from Stan Heironymus's book " Brewing with Wheat", I've come up with a recipe that is close to the original. Blind tasting couldn't tell the two apart. Prost. 5 gallon recipe 5lb pale two row - Briess 2lb wheat malt - Briess 1.5lb unmalted hard red wheat 2.5 oz...

I have several types, 8 to be exact. Those are nugget. Cracked one open and lots of yellow lupin - smells great. They are papery a crunchy when I squeeze them. I'll let them go a bit, but if any start to brown on the tips I'll havest.

Here are a couple

Some off my hop varieties seem ready to pick. They are papery and crunchy. Crazy?

The Paulaner clone in "classic clone recipes" suggests WL 380 or wyeast 3638.

Yes, but there is an increased chance of contamination. You have to be ultra careful. Use a small sterilized jar. After you sanitize the pack of yeast and pitch, immediately pour the remainder in the sanitized jar and cover. Fill the remainder of the jar with sterilized (boiled and cooled)...

I usually start my fermentation in the mid 60's and after a couple days you can let it rise to the lower 70's. If you don't have temperature control I'd chill it to the low to mid 60's and let it go from there. Starting in the 70's increases the chances of off favors.

Great Googlely Woogley's

Thanks!! Any advantage to doing a step Sacc rest like 150 and 156-158? Like very fermentable wort and added body, or is that impossible?

Ok, so if you over shoot your lower mash temp, there is a possibilty that you would lose the enzymes capable of converting at lower temps? And if you mash too long at a lower temp, there may not be enough sugars to convert at a higher?

Ok, I'm really starting to understand how certain mash temps effect the finally beer perception. My question is: if you do a rest at a dryer mash temp like 149, and then ramp to 156+ as some recipes call for, aren't the sugars converted past what a higher mash temp will extract? Or...

It doesn't look too bad in my opinion. Good luck finding a recipe for those nasty things :)

check BN's can you brew it DBA show

I put the carboy in the fridge for a day or two before kegging. It has to cool anyway and does seem to clear the beer a bit.