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The other thread says that you mashed at 150. Try mashing at 154-156. This should make the been less dry. Lower mash temps make the sugars easier for the yeast to eat. Higher mash temps make the sugars more difficult. Higher mash temp will also give you more body.

120 year to date for me 12116

What a bummer. I use their water temp calculator. It seems to give me the exact right temp to strike my grains. I own beersmith. I wish I understood it enough to get an accurate equipment profile so it could tell me the temperature.

As an observation... most of the beer pics I have seen with the foam above the rim have been in glasses where the glass narrows towards the top. I think this has to be one of the contributing factors.

OK so it's been a while... I have brewed quite a few more beers by adjusting my water. I have to say it has made a difference. That 'bitterness' at the finish of ALL my beers has gone away. I brew more malt forward beers and water adjustment has helped tremendously. I have tried one hoppy...

My mocktoberfest from last year took 5 weeks in the keg @10psi to develop any head. The beer was carbonated but looked/tasted flat... 5 weeks!!! I put in my notes to brew 6 weeks earlier this year.

ya, any gross chucks will just settle out... lol

I have gotten in the habit of drawing some boiling wort off by opening and closing the valve slowly several times close to the end of the boil. I just pour it back in the kettle. This gives me peace of mind. The few times I have taken my valves apart they have been gross.

I had a similar issue recently. Come to find out my beer line was laying against some ice forming in the back of the kegerator and had frozen. warmed it with my hand a bit and beer started flowing again.

I'm not sure how to explain it any better than the drawing i made. I'm not sure what a red wire is. coming out of the 120VAC wall socket you have black (hot) white (neutral), and green (ground) there are no red wires. The white (neutral) wire goes to pin 2 only, the other white connections...

OK I hope I did this right. If wired like I have drawn the hot wire will be switched.

I am also sorry I can't better describe the idea I am trying to convey. I'm going to try to markup the diagram and see if I can post it. I have not posted a pic before so we'll see how it goes.

move cooling to pin 7, move heating to pin 5. Then both of the L (line or hot wire) are running to the switch.

the hot and cold symbols in the diagram.... push them around the diagram past the switch so the L or hot wire is being switched off. If you look now the L or hot wire is always hot and always connected to the appliance. That will work but is not good practice.

Be careful when looking at the wiring diagram on that unit. They are showing it wired by switching the neutral. I would make sure the hot wire is switched off instead of the neutral wire.

I had a moktoberfest OG 1.055 that took about 6 weeks to develop any real head/carbonation. You could see there was carbonation but it looked at tasted flat. I brewed it 6 weeks earlier this time... Hopefully it'll be ready to drink by 10/1

The only changes to the system was i removed 2 fittings and changed their position. That's when the leak showed up. It wasn't bubbling there so the leak was very slow. took 2 weeks to drain the tank. I removed those 2 fittings and cleaned them. Put them back together with liquid pipe dope...

That's all that comes to mind. I've been using one as a fermentation chamber for going on 2 years and no condensation problem. I think the difference is, it's not always in use so has a chance to dry out. I have not noticed any puddling in the bottom at all. I run a dehumidifier in my...

buffalo trace, ancient age 90 are my go to 'daily drinkers' Both are reasonably priced. if you get ancient age make sure it's the 90 proof. the regular ancient age is not very good (imo)

Consider a small chest freezer, you can find them for around the same price as the wine fridge but you can use them for cold crashing as well as fermentation control