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Did you think it was worth it? I'm about to move to welly for work so selling my AG equipment and was looking at the grainfather for much the same reasons you did.

If your making an IPA remove the wheat and only use about 5-10% crystal. Id use 90% pale, 5% C60 and 5% carapils.

I brewed this one a fortnight ago. I made a few adjustments which were removing the chocolate malt and colour adjusted with candi sugar (which after tasting directly side by side chimay I regret). I had 4-days primary fermentation at around 25-degrees then straight into the bottle which I think...

I think having proper pH is important as it effects the activity of the amylase enzymes. A amylase works best at pH 7. B amylase works best at pH 5. So it's a compromise to aim for around 5.4 from empirical evidence. I think there is more to it then just the speed of conversion, such as dextrin...

Are you testing both at room temperature? Also it Doesn't matter what pH your brew water is, only the alkalinity and the salts that you are adding. I would not sure strips and get a pH meter. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I don't think you actually want any hop particles in you're finished product or it will taste astringent and awful. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Aluminum and stainless steel are so corrosive that they instantly oxidize to create a protective surface that stops from further rusting, it's called passivation. If you touch stainless with steel or iron it damages the layer. If you wash with an acid it damages the layer. Also minor scratches...

It's ok. Oxygen stops the yeast producing alcohol as you've pointed out. But it will consume all available oxygen and start fermenting once the oxygen is gone and this happens quickly. So, unless you are constantly gassing it with air during the fermentation cycle then it will be making alcohol...

Quick question. Is it ok for me to lauter into the kettle without a hose and allowing it to splash? I've been doing this for a few brews no problems but saw Palmer saying you should minimize splashing. I thought that oxidisation is not a problem preboil. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Gents, I'm thinking of making a very aromatic English type pale ale. I recently tried mosaic hops are really liked the aroma. Do you think the Mosaic/Challenger/EKG combination would go good? I'm dumping large equal quantities of them all in around the 15min and dry hopping with the rest. Has...

So you murdered him. Let's face it. He had to die. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

You're not suppose to serve the yeast with a Belgian beer like chimay. It even says to store upright on the bottle due to this. However, I personally prefer to add the yeast to my 2nd glass. Just a weird thing I do. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I had a flood at mine and lost my kegging gear but not the kegs. Too me 4 years before I bought another fridge and tap. I tried one of the old kegs and it was fine. Tasted great actually. Was a strong dark ale. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Just have a look? I can't see the vortex during krausen as the foam hides it. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Is the saaz a good idea? I'd sub that for something else. Apparently when you think your going overboard with hops is the first sign of a good IPA. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Not sure why no aroma. Isn't centennial pine aroma not citrus? Haven't used it yet myself. Perhaps you added the dry hops to soon or at too cold a temperature. 3.25oz seems like a lot and should do somthing. I dunno. I'm no help at all. Maybe just old hops. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Dry hop then cold crash. It pulls out some of the hop nasties and produces a more rounded hop flavor. Well in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

You can't add dormant yeast to already fermented beer and expect it to attenuate further. It'll just stay dormant because it's in a stressful environment without much sugars. You need to make a starter and pitch It at high krausen so it'll go banaynay. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Just note I think there's some confusion with you use of "strike water" to me that is the water temp prior to mash in that's a little higher in temp to account for losses due to the tun and cold grist. Well that's my definition. I think you mean the target temp for your sacc conversion...

Not too sure what method you're using. If you are using infusion mashing then you never move the grist from the mash tun. Instead you progressively add water in steps to increase the mash temperature. Obviously you are severely limited in your temp range due to the change in the water/grist...