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Before you hang it up to dry, take the hose outside and swing it around as fast as you can in a circle. It won’t get it completely dry but it will get you most of the way there.

I do know what you mean, as my speidel lid gaskets often feel loose, but they still seem to fit fine and I haven’t had any problems once reseating them.

Give it a pbw soak followed by an acid soak. citric acid or even vinegar should do the trick. If I get bad scale buildup that pbw alone doesn’t seem to touch, the stone peels right off after an acid soak.

I have a 1/2” heavy duty drill from HF that is perfect for milling grain. 45 bucks after a 20% off coupon. It has a big motor and is geared way down to have huge torque at any reasonable milling speed. My old cheapo drill didn’t have enough torque to crush grain unless at pretty high...

The thing that jumps out at me is that you are using harvested slurry without a starter, correct? If so, you might be severely under-pitching those batches. Harvested yeast stored in the fridge loses viability FAST. Much faster than the vials or snack packs from the store. Even if you are...

Looks and sounds like chill haze to me. I agree with the other posters that it will get clearer with time. If I’m reading correctly, you filtered the beer before chilling it down to serving temperature. Chill haze is caused by proteins that are dissolved in the beer at room temperature, but...

The predicted FG is different because Beersmith considers the predicted attenuation levels of the yeast strains you are using. A strain with higher expected apparent attenuation will predict a lower final gravity. With that said, those predictions are generally a wide range, and the yeast...

Short answer: no This is exactly what I do. The vast majority of the aromatic compounds are dissolved in the beer, not hanging out in the headspace. If you think about it, the headspace in the keg never makes it into your glass...

An LHBS near me does a huge discount on select pounds of hops on Black Friday as (I assume) a loss leader. I haven’t ever had problems with freshness, but I imagine overstock could play a factor. Who knows... Your point is valid and taken, but I want to include my positive experience with hops...

+1 for the centennial blonde

Interesting read, thanks!

Alright, I agree that there is nonzero o2 diffusion through the airlock liquid. That said, I'm willing to guess that the rate is very low. Furthermore, I suspect that there will be a lot more o2 in the headspace as a result of imperfect purging than will diffuse in through the airlock in the...

+1 for Notty. It's my go-to as well. Extremely clean and has the added benefit of working well at low temperatures.

I'm not so sure about this. An airlock does allow exchange of gases in or out *if* there is a pressure differential between the atmosphere and the carboy. Unless the pressure drops significantly in the carboy, no atmospheric gases will be moving into the headspace. No bubbling means no gas...

Alternatively, you could also just wait for the wort to boil a minute or two. As long as you haven't just added any extracts, the convection in the boil should be entirely sufficient to homogenize the mixture. Once you take that reading, you can decide whether you are ready to add your 60 minute...

If you bottle some from the keg with the intention of aging, I would be careful with oxygen exposure. With regard to the temperature, being previously held at low temperature isn't a problem. Almost every commercial beer that people age for months or years has spent time in cold storage in a...

I should have some Boulder/Fort Collins area stickers lying around, if I find them I'll mail them your way

You will get some additional bitterness from the extra 15 minutes. Why not throw the bittering hops after boiling for 15 minutes? When doing 90 minute boils, almost all recipes call for the bittering addition to still go in at 60 minutes (after boiling for 30). Alternatively I would do this...

Glad to hear you're having some success! For beers that are particularly susceptible to oxidation (big IPAs etc.), I go one step further: I fill the corny keg with starsan and seal up the keg. This displaces nearly all the air/oxygen inside. Then I use co2 to push the sanitizer out of the keg...

Because you don't know much about the alpha acid content, you might use a buttering charge of commercial hops, then hit late in the boil with the wild ones so there is less potential IBU variation