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Thanks for the advice btw everyone.

I am going to throw in a little sugar to dry it out a little more. Certainly don't want it to be cloying, and I've moved one of the dry hop ounces to flameout. Two reasons I'm going with all centennial are a.) I'm still learning so Want to really taste pure centennial in a DIPA, and b.) founders...

Going for something along the lines of a hopslam but with all centennial. Hopslam is about 1.021 FG if I'm not mistaken. I'm sure dogfish 90 has a fairly high FG as well. Again I'm not going for a dry west coast style at all.

Also, no offense Jammin, but if you would dump a 1.020 beer, then our tastes are waaay off from one another, and you just wouldn't like the type of beer I'm shooting for. I want a good maltysweetness in a DIPA to balance out the hops.

A little tedious to copy the whole recipe over from beer smith, but I'm using 15 pounds of American 2 row with 2 pounds of Vienna and some crystal and honey malt (8 oz each). Also using Warrior at 60 for the IBUs and going for an east coast style malty DIPA.

Doing a double IPA and looking for some advice. Right now I have the recipe with an ounce of centennial at 15, 10, 5, and flameout. Then dry hopping with another 4 oz. Shooting for and OG around 1.088 and an ABV around 8.9. Thinking of adding another oz. Of centennial at flameout and/or...

The IBUs are pretty low, about 32, and the fruity esters of the English yeast really come out. I was going to dry hop, but I think I'm going to leave it alone. Amazingly smooth at 6.2%.

I just made a pale ale with american 2-row, english ale yeast (us04) and hopped exclusively with cascade. Would this be defined as an English or american pale ale? Btw I intended to use us05 but accidentally bought us04, and I'm really happy with this Smash beer. Will probably become a mainstay...

I plan to dry hop, but that doesn't technically add any IBU's. Just curious. I'm going to say its a DIPA because there's not really anything else that it's very close to.

Was going for an IPA but overshot my gravity. 1.075->1.012 left me with a beer that is 8.27%, over the BJCP style guidlines for an IPA. However, the IBUs are only 50, leaving me short of the 60 minimum required to define an imperial IPA. So, what is this beer?

I don't do anything. Freeze the fruit and throw it straight into the bottom of the carboy.

Ok so I'm going to get two ounces of each and maybe put in only 1.5-1.75 of the centennial.

Oh and I'm looking for big citrus/grapefruit notes.

5 gallons. Hop schedule was .5 OZ magnum 60m .5 OZ centennial 40m .5 OZ centennial 20m .5 OZ cascade 10m .5 OZ cascade 0m 50 IBU

I just made a strong IPA (1.075), bittered with Magnum and flavored with cascade and centennial. I was thinking about dry hopping with an ounce each of cascade and centennial. Any thoughts?

I would highly reccomend you to go to the hardware store and spend $7 on a drill powered paint stirrer. It works amazingly well.

Wow that is great to know mort. A lot of things you read would make you think you need to inject pure O2 into a big beer.

Great thanks. I was thinking a similar range. I want to make something that I won't have to wait a year to drink. Once I build up a little stockpile I'll try something like a RIS or maybe even a sour.

Looking to do a bigger beer than the 4-6% range I've done so far (AG). I know things like Barleywine and Imperial Stout should be aged for a while, but what about a strong ale or stout in the 7-8% range? Do they need extended aging or are they good sooner?

Here's my $.02. I don't like to take a bunch of gravity readings, because you lose beer, and I try to open my primary as infrequently as possible. I take one at about 10 days, and another at 14. If they are the same, I bottle. If not, I take another in 2-3 more days and if it's the same as the...