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I didn't measure the volume after the mash but that sounds about right because I added around 3 to 3.5 gallons before boiling. Since this was only my third batch I was more concerned with hitting my target final volume rather than gravity; just to see what my system was like. I'm brewing an...

So I don't really need the recirculating pump unless I have a temp probe and heating element in line to maintain mash temp. I WAS WAY OFF! Haha

What does recirculating the wort do!? Haha I was misled somewhere along the line. The efficiency I was talking about was my mash efficiency. So if I change just my crush, what kind of change in mash efficiency can I expect, roughly?

My preboil gravity was 1.058 but I didn't do a full volume mash, so I added the necessary water and took the hit on gravity to get my 10.5 gal. I measured the gravity with a hydrometer but I accounted for the temp when I took it; according to the Brewing Great Beers book. I don't have a metric...

I worried about that too but I used 2 thermometers and got nearly the same reading and both were well within a range of 148 and 154. I should probably upgrade to a weldless on the side but I like being able to measure the temp difference in the grains and outside of them. Could you imagine that...

I brewed a brown ale yesterday that was targeted to hit 1.055 but finished as 1.044 with my recipe already adjusted to a 65% efficiency. I use a water pump to rinse my grains as a crude way of sparging but I realized that I've been doing this at around 150 degrees rather than 168, and only for a...

This post is for a sour mash belgian apricot ale. Apologies for the rambling! I made the delightfully smelling sour mash, boiled for an hour with 4 hop additions, joined the wort with a belgian ale yeast and fermented for 2 weeks. I collected a sour yeast from the bottom of a Funkwerks sour...

Great article! Its also worth mentioning the importance of the size of tungsten, the added benefit of using a make shift heat-sink and a back stepping method so that your HAZ in minimal. There are also GTAW power sources with pulsed frequency to minimize heat input if you have the cash.

Great article! Its also worth mentioning the importance of the size of tungsten, the added benefit of using a make shift heat-sink and a back stepping method so that your HAZ in minimal. There are also GTAW power sources with pulsed frequency to minimize heat input if you have the cash.

This is great advice! I was considering tossing them! Would boiling the hops in water for an hour give me any idea of how it would bitter my beer? I want to do something to test this before I ruin a batch.

oven was set a 170 but I kept the door open to keep the temp. down to 140. Collectively they smell sweet, almost like hay, but opening them individually releases the original, desired aroma. I'm air drying the other half of the harvest, so I'm pretty jazzed about that. Woulda been cool...

I'm sure this thread is around somewhere, but did I ruin my hops by attempting to dry them in the oven? They smell somewhat sweet and I've read about getting grassy flavors by over heating. I still have half of my harvest to do the right way if I really messed this one up. Thanks

Final Recipe 6lbs Dark LME 1lb Light DME 1lb Crystal 60 .5lb Toasted 2oz Smoked 1oz Chinook @ 60 1oz Crystal @ 40 1oz Crystal @ 30 .5oz Simcoe @ 20 .5oz Simcoe @ 10 .5oz Juniper Berries @ 10 .5oz Simcoe @ Flame off .5oz Simcoe @ Transfer to secondary West Coast Ale yeast With a little help...

I'll keep an eye out for it! I've heard its easy to go overkill on the juniper berries so I'm still undecided on how many oz. I want to add. Maybe the juniper will hide behind the darker body though. I just bought everything yesterday, hopefully it's in the primary by the end of the month!

I recently fell in love with the aroma of a Juniper IPA that I had at the Blackrocks Brewing Co. in Marquette, MI. I want to recreate the juniper aroma along with some "piney" hints (chinook or simcoe from what I've been seeing). I also want to add a light smokey flavor and add a deeper color...

I recently fell in love with the aroma of a Juniper IPA that I had at the Blackrocks Brewing Co. in Marquette, MI. I want to recreate the juniper aroma along with some "piney" hints (chinook or simcoe from what I've been seeing). I also want to add a light smokey flavor and add a deeper color...

Haha woops!

7ga is 1/16", so 11ga would be far less than 1/8" , but yes, I agree 11ga is overkill. I'm going to make an autogenous GTAW-P weld so that the substrate is flush with the weld and the HAZ is minimal. If the welding is done right, back purge and all, the project should be doable. I might...

Thank you for the advice, I'm fairly new to brewing so its been hard getting the details right. To be honest all I'm trying to do is build some equipment for myself haha. I'm interested in making a connect between my profession and brewing. So the first things that came to mind were a fermenter...

I have my bachelors in Welding Engineering so I understand the material price, gas price, and difficulty of welding, but I wasn't aware that 304 was corrosive resistant enough for brewing. Also I'm glad you mentioned material thickness, combined with a lower grade SS will definitely cut the...