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Does anyone have, or have a reputable link to a BeerAlchemy 2.1.4 installer? I have a license, but the installer in no longer available on the App Store, or any reputable sites that I can find. I only have an older installer saved locally, and it is not Catalina compatible. I have my data folder...

Coppertubingsales also has the reducers, in case you are also ordering your tubing from them... just sayin.

Just thought I'd add my experiences... I brewed a Honey lager once with some Safelager S-23. This Beer has no idea how close it came to the drain... After 3 weeks of Primary/Secondary fermentation in the upper 50's I bottled and let condition for 3 more weeks. Beer was so bad it wasn't...

I would definitely not try to unroll it...Even if you can unroll it without introducing more kinks, you'll have a hell of a time rolling it back up... I unrolled my IC (very very carefully) to make a CFC out of. I unrolled it just fine, but when I tried to roll it back up again, it kinked and...

Ya, I've spent the last couple hours over on the BCS Wiki and Forums... It looks like there will be a little bit of a learning curve, but like anything else, once you get the hang of it things should be easy. Hmm... decisions, decisions...

I've been torn between a PID control panel and going with a BCS system... Right now I'm strongly leaning going the Auber PID route. I like the idea of a PID based control panel... having the ability to go turn it on, set my temp and go. I love the ability of remote monitoring and that is my...

Yep, that's my diagram... I haven't built my system yet, but I put that graphic together based on other builds on here. I'd put the switch before the SSR's... right after your power cord comes into the box. I'd also go up to the 40A SSR's. It seems overkill, but the 40A SSR's will run much...

Oooh... lookie here. Would this one work without an SSR? According to its rating, it would work for a 4000w or lower element at 220v.

Are you talking about the Bakatronics PWM kit or Walker's design?

OK.. I'm sold on that one! Hell I even feel like an idiot now. I was reading about that PWM board on another thread about controlling the speed of a March Pump and never even though about using it to fire an SSR... Thanks Mr. Obvious, I guess I never "made the connection" :cross: Here's the...

I have full intentions on building a control panel eventually, but I don't have the funds or the time to build what I want right now... so in the meantime my thoughts were to use a 5500 watt element @ 240 with no controller to get it close, then switch it to 120 which would drop it down to 1375...

I've been considering the simplistic approach to a dedicated boil kettle. What would you all consider the proper size element for 5 gallon batches? 6-6.5 gal boils... running at 100% with no PID...

I've got the thinner gauge aluminum turkey fryer pots with weldless fitted ball valves... works great. Every now and then I get a little drip and need to replace an o-ring, but not very often. If you want to solder, this is the stuff you need. I know it will work soldering brass or copper to...

I found these contactors on the Auber site... anyone know if ones of those would work with the GFCI from the link listed above?

I built one based off of this design... It works OK... the trick is just a couple quick squirts of CO2 here and there when needed. The 3 liter caps sealed better for me than the 2 liter caps due to the fact that they are a bit bigger. It was fun to mess with, everyone got a kick out of it if...

Yes, a CFC of 20' length or more, should get your wort within 1-2° of the tap water. If you already have an IC, then you can use that as a prechiller in a ice bath to cool down your tap water even more before it hits the CFC. Lot's of good CFC info here

I just taped mine with electrical tape, but duct tape should work fine... it's far enough away fro the flame that it won't get hot, plus it has a constant flow of propane running through it. On mine you can't just take the valve off and hook the hose directly to the burner, as the threads on...

I like the idea of using one of these... Looks similar to what Brewmation uses in their control boxes. I like the idea of having the GFCI in the control box (but with easy access to the reset button), rather than using a GFCI breaker in the breaker box. That would allow me to brew in the garage...

Just curious what kind of ground water temp your dealing with? My tap water is around 70 in the middle of the summer, so a CFC should be plenty good enough for me. My initial thought is that for the time and money it would take to build your setup, you could build or even buy a Counterflow...

A little solder would seal 'em up nice and be much better than silicone...