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I've had a couple lagers (Munich Helles and Festbier) lagering for a couple months now and just took samples. It appears they didn't attenuate as fully as I thought and both are tasting way too sweet. The Helles is at 1.014 and the Festbier is 1.021. The Helles I was just lazy and assumed it...

Regarding how to go about brewing with your 5 gal kettle I would do the following: 1. Research no-sparge brewing - with only 1 kettle this will avoid you needing to figure out a way to heat sparge water and once you figure out the efficiency of your system should allow you to hit target...

The deposit on kegs doesn't come close to the cost of the actual kettle, so you're hurting a brewery and playing a small part in rising beer prices by viewing a deposit as a purchase. You can get an 8 gallon economy kettle from NB for $100 and add fittings later... avoids the hassle of cutting...

Couple thoughts on your situation: 1. I use an IC as well and do hop stands. After I've gotten the temp down to pitching temp I take out the IC and whirlpool for 5 minutes and then let settle for another 5 min (lid on of coures). I use a pump with a tangential port, but I'm sure a vigorous...

Thanks Rufus - very much appreciated!

Looking awesome so far! Loving the plasma cutting work and really appreciate the electrical diagram. I'm only going 2 burner automation, but otherwise pretty much the exact same with the electrical. Did you pick up most or your parts locally or source them online? Mind providing a control panel...

It would probably help if I provided some details in my intention. I am building a single tier HERMS brew stand and am running temperature probes from the HLT and Mash to the BCS. Based on set points the BCS would turn the 2 propane valves and 2 pumps on/off. I want to control the gas valves...

Hi Rufus. I appreciate the frankness and you're spot on - I have very limited knowledge of electrical. That said I don't have any intentions of abandoning the project, unless someone is willing to build this for me for cash or brew (If you are message me :mug:). I'd think it's safe to assume...

So I've looked at everything I could find regarding electrical and schematics for HERMs, BCS controls, and propane systems and came up with the attached. Below are links to the various components I plan to use. Would greatly appreciate if those with electrical knowledge can take a look and see...

I sealed my mini fridge by simply cutting the plastic insert. It's more permanent, but easy and leaves seal as secure as the stock fridge. If you know you'll never use this fridge for anything else, I'd go that route (using a dremel to cut). That's the pic with the black plastic. The other...

Looks like you're diving in head first. Regarding RO purifier I wouldn't. If money is no option than buying RO water is easier. I was exploring RO purifiers I think $600 was the ballpark. You can get distilled water for 90 cents a gallon in Boston, so ignoring filter, install, and water waste...

Looking good. I'm in the middle of a similar build. Do you have your electrical planned out yet? I'm very much lost on how to wire the BCS with 2 chugger pumps and 2 Honeywell valves. I noticed you said you were going to mount the BCS in a box with the Honeywell control boards - I read that...

I'm with you - my welds aren't pretty but they've held up thus far (although I'm pretty sure yours are looking prettier than mine!) Do you have a schematic for your electrical yet? I'm completely lost figuring out how to wire BCS to control pumps and propane valves!

+1. Greatly reduces my moisture build up and simply recharge it when I swap a keg out. Only suggestion is to tape the 'door' to it shut - I dropped mine and still am finding little absorption beads over a year later.

I've been searching through a lot of topics on automation and I think the discussions most similar to what I'm looking to do are much more complex than needed. Without any prior experience with electrical work (besides building a stir plate) I'm not able to take what has been explained in those...

So am lucky enough to be st Nerax when they tapped the firkin of Edward. Carbonation, as expected, was low and the pillowiness of the mouth feel decreased. Based o. Grain bill discussion already and this it lead me to believe that water profile is the dominant aspect with the "right"...

Thanks ThreeDogsNE. It looks from these that if the low pressure orifices are indeed 1/16" it's only putting out about 27,000 BTU. Does anyone with thise orifices and precision measurement equipment able to see what these are drilled out. It seems that if they are indeed 1/16" it won't even come...

I've been pouring over the forums getting as much information as I can to complete my single tier semi-automated brew stand. Debating on whether to buy a set of wire gauge drill bits or go the cheaper and simpler option of buying low pressure orifices for my BG14 burners available from Williams...

I second that. Very curious on to the perceived differences.

I feel there is more to it then just oats/wheat/etc. Definitely feel that too much could lead to a silky mouthfeel and not the soft fluffy one hill farmstead is known for. Just postulating though.