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Has anyone looked into this as a fermentation chamber? I am wondering if I need to start calling around to see the inner height with the lid closed. And if I can fit 2 better bottles in it or 1 bucket

I have been toying with idea of using 1 spignot (rubber gasket issue) for "normals" and another for sours. Since the bucket is hard plastic... and I clean my stuff very well, I think I will be fine. Although, I only bottle high ABV beers so they are not on tap 24/7... like 9% and up. I still...

It has been sooo long since I bottled. I didn't even notice that was such a large amount.

I am working on the same assumption. The hard plastics can be cleaned/sanitized but the soft rubber materials may or may not get 100% cleaned/sanitized. With that in mind, I do not keg my sours. I was told that the corny keg rubber top and bottom can harbor the microbes as well. Since they...

A lot of posts start like this.... First few beers + recipe. So when you followed the recipe what was the fermentation length/time? Did you ferment down to a low final gravity? Or did you just follow the recipe? If your beer wasn't done fermenting it might be on the sweet side.... then...

I use a blow off for most of my ales. I collect 5 gallons wort in a 6 gallon Better Bottle. And I have to use the blow-off almost every time. Of the beers I did not, I caught two hissing and foaming out of the 3-piece airlock. For example, just last night my all Brett IPA... 74 hours in and...

When I pulled my 1st generation Roeselare lambic out of primary, it tasted like a weak JP beer. So I say they go well with the Roeselare blend. Like blizzard said, they are not very funky... And also they are not very sour. It is a good mix of both (a little of each). And they will...

Seems like a lot of energy to cool a space and at the same time warm another part of it. I would bet this would put more and more pressure on your compressor and possibly more condensation in your freezer. Temp control is only very important during the first few stages of fermentation. Is...

I thought it was bad when I dumped 168°F water on my bare foot during my lauter.... but the face... ouch.

Ah. If you think about the Solera brewing process.... I would think you could just pitch. My method is more of a Horney tank technique.

Why are you even pitching Sacc? It is in Roeselare Blend... you would get a more sour/funky beer leaving it out. If you dont believe me contact Wyeast: https://www.wyeastlab.com/contactus.cfm I have 15 gallons of lambic in secondary right now. 1st-3rd generation Roeselare pitches, all...

True. But whenever I make StarSan I fill a squirt bottle. And since I brew 1-2x a month... I always have it. With everything in mind, I think soapy water might actually bubble more... but I have always used StarSan....

Roeselare has Sacc in it as well. So it has the ale yeast you mention. Roeselare Blend is in the proportions to make the "desired flavor components... in West Flanders." By pitching your WLP550 Belgian yeast you greatly increased the Sacc yeast contribution. Tilting the flavor profile. My...

Simple water chemistry.... Your filtered water is not going to add esters or phenolic flavors besides chlorophenols (chlorinated brewing water). So as far as your water adding banana or clove. It's a no to that. The clove note is a phenol... and it comes from POF + yeast. The London and s-04...

The point is you cannot look at a beer and tell when it is done.

I brew with Roeselare microbes by themselves in primary. But Brett will show up by changing the existing esters/acids and such into new compounds. If you add more sugar, you give the enormous amount of WLP550 more sugar to chew on... Brett is at a lower concentration and is a slow starter...

My first batch was the Imperial Pale Ale from Sam Calagione's Extreme Brewing book. It was my 2nd batch too. I did 2 5-gallon batches back to back.... probably like 10 hours, lol. I thought it was decent. Not nearly as complex to the craft beer I was used to. And I used chlorinated water...

Lower temperatures = higher flocculation. So dropping it to 4C will speed things up. Some yeast might need 2 weeks at 4C to drop out...

I have had many of kegs leak CO2 and it is not fun diagnosing the problem. I have spent multiple days and tons of StarSan trying to find small leaks. When all else fails I replaced the "standard" poppets with the universal ones. Always is my last case scenario and luckily always ended up working.

First, I would not suspect your yeast were done at day 3. Especially with a gravity that high. What was your fermentation temps? That is probably the most important part. Did the temps drop after the first 3 days... What temp is it now?