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Vinegar usually means they got infected with a acetic acid-producing bacteria. You can't really get rid of it from these batches, just pay more attention to sanitation next time.

The problem with recirculating the water is that the water coming out of the chiller has absorbed all the energy and is really hot. You will need A LOT of ice if you plan on recirculating this way. Since ice takes a lot of energy to make, you will not be doing Mother Earth any favors with this...

I haven't but I worry it is for milling the grain into flour for baking, which would be too fine of a mill for brewing. The Corona style mills (like i have) were also designed to make flour, but they can be modified to have a wider gap to produce a good crush for brewing. I have no experience...

For ales I usually go 10 days then cold crash or use finings as needed. That way I usually have the batch kegged in 2 to 2.5 weeks.

I have a CO2 utility line that uses lure locks that are sort of like quick disconnects. Check out homebrewfinds.com for a write-up about it.

My base beer was a little different but I brewed this for a friend's wedding. It got rave reviews and is probably one of the better beers I've brewed. For the lime addition I zested one lime and added it at 2 different times at the end of the boil. For the basil, I measured out 1 oz of fresh...

I've made a couple orders with them in the past week and everything's been on time.

I used to dry hop in secondary but this last time I did in primary with the yeast still in the carboy and it worked fine.

Some people try adding maltodextrin or lactose. Lactose will also add sweetness. To add them you boil in some water to sterilize them add to secondary vessel then rack onto it. However, the best thing would be to raise your mash temperature in the future.

8 ppm is enough for most beers (high gravity ones might need more). The convenience for pure O2 is mostly a time thing.

How long was it aging before you bottled? You may not have a lot of healthy yeast left in there.

Also make sure the short dip tube is on the gas in side and the long dip tube is on the liquid out side. Then make sure everything is tight.

The yeast from your keg is old yeast that has probably gone dormant long ago. It will need a lot of care and probably stepped up a couple times before it is really healthy.

The length of gas line doesn't really matter. The only concern I have is that it doesn't get knocked around and disconnected. If it is out of the way I don't think there should be any problem.

I would still use it. The Irish moss is mostly to help your hot/cold break proteins settle out.

I also use Damp Rid (from any hardware store, etc) and a small computer CPU fan I got for cheap off amazon.

With flaked wheat the mash can get gunked up easily. If I am using anything 'flaked' or 'wheat' I usually just throw in some rice hulls. They are cheap, inert, and I would rather not have to deal with a stuck sparge/mash.

I don't think you should have too many problems with the beer as long as you have a big healthy pitch.

You want the SG of the starter to be around there because you want it to be high enough to have enough nutrients but not too high that will stress out the yeast. Fermentation usually starts faster since the yeast are active. Depending on your gravity of your 1 gal batch, a 1L starter is probably...

Your carboy should be fine. Plastics holds infections, but glass is pretty resistant to them unless you have scratched the inside of it up while cleaning.