Yes I had this issue. I carefully bent the coils so they're positioned towards the back of the fermenter. Also, I always have a 3" butterfly valve on the lid. Dry hops go into the valve, and valve is orientated so that when it is slowly opened the hops slide towards the front of the fermenter.
Pump seems strong. I use my grainfather CFC with some creative connections. I do have to babysit the mash with this system more so than with the GF. seems like the heat doesn't kick in until it's 2 degrees below my target then doesn't shut off until a degree or so over. i basically manually...
i have 2 7 gal chronical bme's and a 14 gal unitank. honestly i prefer using the chronicals - easier to clean, for one. i did have to "modify" the chilling coils by bending them a bit because my dry hops were always getting caught on the coils. i'm still working out my process with the unitank...
You'll be surprised at how easy it is. Is your grain already crushed? Make sure to stir a lot as you dough in to avoid clumps. Modulate the pump flow with the ball valve during the mash. don't have the heating element on without the pump also on during the mash. take your time sparging.
when you mentioned "intermittent leak", it jogged my memory of something I noticed on one of my ball locks. When there was any weight or strain on the gas line to one of my kegs, it would leak at the quick disconnect. But only when there was just enough horizontal force on the connection...
Some of my favorite hazy IPA's have been with US-05, but I prefer a dryer version of NEIPA. I would: mash at 149, skip the cascade and go 1.5 mosaic, 1.5 citra, 1 amarillo at flameout, and ferment at 65.5. but that's just me and my tastes.
I was a little confused on setting the gap. Ss support confirmed when choosing a setting, you align the tightening screw to that number's screwhole, rather than using the top of the slide to line up to that number.
I was in the "second round" and received mine on Friday. Used it for a brew on Sunday and it worked flawlessly. I was a little confused on the gap setting - do you set it with the lever lined up to the setting or with the screw inserted in that setting screw hole? I settled with the lever...