Recent content by patchedboard

Also for a “greener/resinous” character 3-5 days dry hopping, for a juicier character 10-14 days.

At CBC they were talking about ~10g/L being the optimal dry hopping amount and 12g/L being the terminal limit for perception.

Call it chocolate roatmeal stout. It’ll be delicious and you’ll be grand!

Use a blowoff into a bottle of sanitized water. But ya your ferm looks good. Make sure your fermenter is somewhere where the ambient air is 5 degrees lower than your target fermentation temp. You’ll be grand!

I’ve always added purée to secondary. You will get some refermentation but that will help suspend the purée evenly throughout the column. I wait for primary fermentation to appear to be complete...rack to secondary on top of your purée and let it do it’s thing. Bottling fruit puréed beer...

Making a gruit? Let it get soured. It would be traditional that way. In fact you could use raw unfiltered honey into the carboy and let the wild yeasts ferment your beer and any bacteria would sour it nicely too. It would be an ancient ale

I'm looking to make a gruit and want to bitter with Heather and or bog myrtle. Has anyone made such a thing and where do I find heather and bog myrtle and how much should I use and when should I add it to the boil? Thanks!

The last few batches I've made have had this distinct dirt/black soil aroma and flavor. I thought the first one might have been some old malt but the second one was all fresh malt. This isn't a flavor I've been able to find in off flavor descriptions. I'm really afraid of making anything new...

I stumbled across a brewery going out of business and was able to pick up some of their 1/6bbl kegs for next to nothing. Problem is they need a rebuild. I watched a video on YouTube about taking the spears apart, which is actually pretty simple, but the main ball valve seal won't come out...

I have some 50L kegs, if I take the spear out, do you think the Mark II will have enough gumption to clean it?

Well I have been using the info from the maltster but it is a local craft maltster and the numbers they gave me aren't working out in my formulations. I've been coming up consistently about 8 pts og short since I started to use their malt. I adjusted the numbers they gave me down from the 1.037...

I'm sure this has been covered a thousand times, but how exactly do you test the potential of your grain for your formulas. I know it's something like a pound of grain in a gallon of water for an hour or something like that. But what temp water? Thanks!

How does not chilling affect your hopping schedule? If think late additions would become more bitting and lose some of their aroma/flavor notes with the time they sit at those temps.

My experience with the new lids is that they will blow off if you have a full-er-ish carboy and/or are running a high grav beer. I put my new lids on a belt sander and trimmed them down to fit inside the rings that came with the original lids. If you look earlier on this thread or another just...

So I've had some efficiency problems for a couple of years now and I keep chalking it up to water but have been too cheap to go ahead and get a water test done. Found out that our city will email me a weekly water profile. Anyhoo...here's what I got from the city, in ppm...