Recent content by LostHopper

It is a standard recommendation to drink hop-forward beers as fresh as possible. I'm guessing that most home brewers are already drinking fresher beer than folks buying commercial beer off the shelf. When using reasonable brewing techniques that minimize oxygen exposure (purged kegs, closed...

I sometimes use a 6.5 gallon fermenter and I hate to waste space so my batches end up being a "keg+" where I bottle usually a six pack after doing the closed transfer to the purged keg. Depending on the style there can be a very noticeable difference in the beers (bottle vs keg) coming from...

Excessive bag squeezing, dunking, sparging hoping for another tiny drop of "efficiency". BIAB is supposed to be simple. If you need more gravity buy a little extra grain or toss a half cup of dme in the boil.

Good point. My "solution" is to alternate brewing beers that need to be in a keg and then porter/stouts that I usually bottle also because I have a few friends that really like the dark beers. I'm also trying some half batches with 2.5 gallon kegs. I've wondered if it is because the homebrewed...

Kegging seems like such a big step in homebrewing until you finally do it and then you realize it's just a single 5 gallon bottle plus the benefit of closed transfer. If you are going to brew NEIPA you owe it to yourself to keg it. Bobby_M (brewhardware) has some inexpensive gadgets that make...

I don't have the refined taster's vocabulary but I know it when I taste it. I consider conditioning to be synonymous with carbonating in a bottle with priming sugar. The time it takes for that natural carbonation to occur lets the beer flavors settle in (mature maybe?). In a keg we can speed...

In my limited experience (10+ years) there is a greater chance of twang factor when using LME than DME. I brew all grain but a fast SMASH or SMATH with DME can be a life saver. (Shout out to James Spencer)

I think some significant changes occur in beer "taste" when it is allowed to mature, not age. I've heard the term Green Beer and I agee. As homebrewers we are so anxious to drink our creations that we may not drink it at it's best whether that is due to carbonation or malt/yeast/hops flavors...

After filling a keg and connecting CO2 I put both keg and bottle (5#) in beer fridge. Sometimes I burst carb or set and forget. Drink beer. No problems. When I remove keg and CO2 bottle from fridge if I turn off gas at the tank and turn it back on to run pbw thru serving line the CO2 spews out...

No argument here. Depends on your goal and the level of palate sophistication. The OP originally mentioned wanting " more juicy + low bitterness" and ended up with a calculated IBU of 74. I still think moving some of those hops to flameout or 180F would achieve his stated goal especially if...

I'm sure that will be tasty. With my primitive system there is a lot going on at 10-15 min (chiller into pot for sanitizing, whirlfloc, yeast nutrient-if I remember) so my hopping for IPAs has migrated to bittering at 45 min with Centennial, Magnum or Chinook (use less when you boil it longer)...

The Domino Sugar Cube Dots I've used for carbonation come 198 cubes per one pound box. "Nutritional label" for skittles made me laugh.

Just missed a transfer by 24 hours. And thank you for originally describing this technique here. It's been a game changer for me especially with hoppy beers but it's so simple I do it with all beers .

I would check with brewhardware.com They make a pressure transfer kit on a Fermonster lid that has a single gas post but uses a racking cane through the lid. They probably have the parts. (Their kit works well too)

And I probably wouldn't store them in the cupboard to start just as a precautionary measure. We have a spare bathroom and unused tub and I put bottles in there with the shower curtain closed for the first 10-14 days. I've never had a bottle bomb but having one in the bathtub is preferable to...