I think bottle conditioned beers always taste better after a couple of months. They're carbed up after a 2 weeks or so and can be drunk, but are better later.
Wowee. I do all grain BIAB. With dry yeast, I've aerated, not aerated, rehydrated, sprinkled, thrown salt over my left shoulder while poking my tongue out and hopping on my left leg. Now I just slop it around a bit and sprinkle. It works very well. I've had a crack with all sorts of liquid...
There are alot of factors at play when brewing. Clear descriptions of ingredients and processes help us (your beer buddies) help you get to where you want to. Otherwise, it's just guesswork. You could just brew normally and dump some maltodextrin in as do extract brewers. Nah that's crap. 66.6...
As with alcohol, I believe that US-05 is being blamed for a lot of things that it just has not done. It is a very good dried yeast, which in my opinion and experience produces a wonderous beverage. WLP001 beats it for dead though.
Tonight I cracked an Irish stout that gushed all over the shop. Next stubbie was fine and well behaved. Sometimes I mightn't of cleaned the very odd bottle as well as I should of I quess. Beer in first wasn't sour, just gushy. Blame it on the beer gods.
I always taste anything before I bottle it and really, we should always check SGs as bottle bombs are so dangerous. Yeast like higher temperatures but we don't like the beer they produce at those temps. They don't like temp fluctuations. Tend to stall. I wrap my fermenters in camping mats. I...
Tried and true for 23lt brews (roughly 6 US gallons) 250 ml (1 cup) for ale and 500 ml (2 cups) for lager. That's roughly about it but hey, life can be rough.
Just because it appears clear, doesn't mean there's no yeast there. They're there, staring at you, waiting to take over the world. Fined crystal clear beer still carbonates wonderfully in bottles. I never rack my beer unless it's to fine it or to bulk prime. It's not really an Australian...