Recent content by jsharp4684

I solved mine by following Spike’s suggestion. I swapped my input and output and now the system has no trouble cold crashing to 34F and keeping it there.

I'm not too worried about additional CO2 production since it's going into a keg and there's not a lot of sugar left.

I'm going to let it ride at 74F until the weekend. I'll cold crash starting Friday and keg it on Sunday.

Yeah, preacidifying is definitely one of my lessons learned. And boiling before pitching the lacto. I'm wondering if I left enough sugars (at 1.016) that the brett was able to make quick work of the butyric acid.

This beer has given me a run for my money. I’m hoping to sanity check this, to make sure I’m not jumping the gun before packaging. Grab a pint and get comfy, it’s a bit of a tale. Single vessel eBIAB. 60% wheat, 40% pils. Mashed at 154F for 2 hours (intended for 1, but it just wasn’t hitting...

I went 50A, from Lowes, to make sure I had the overhead to go larger or 3 vessel if I wanted to later.

Yeah, the price of a Coolbot basically negates the reason for doing a DIY glycol chiller lol

I have a theory. The flow is too high. The stainless coil isn't an effective enough conductor to get the temperature down that low with that small of a temperature delta and a constant flow of glycol. I found that I can get the beer down below 38F by cycling the pump and allowing the glycol...

I have two coils that aren't in beer. I think all the conicals use the same number of coils, with longer "legs" to the 4" TC flange. I'll try to measure the return temp. Something I have noticed: the 2" valve and piping from the bottom aren't as cold as the 1.5" accessories that are higher in...

That was the issue I was having. The A/C unit wouldn't restart after the inkbird shut it off. Unfortunately, I ended up smoking the compressor on my freebie unit. So, I now have a manual A/C that I got working just fine. My advice for posterity is to just start with a mechanical/manual A/C...

@mongoose33 I'm working on cold crashing my first batch in my CF5. I'm using a DIY glycol chiller made with a 5k btu A/C unit. Like you, I am able to hold 28F reservoir temps, but can't get 6 gals of beer below 38F. I prefer a 32-34F cold crash, as that's what I've always done with my ferm...

I’m working on trying to wire up the digital AC unit for my glycol chiller. I saw a YouTube video where the guy wired an ITC-1000 to one leg of the compressor and was wondering if the same would work on a ITC-308. Like in the attachment. Thoughts?

I suppose it depends on how the element is mounted. Mine is in a 2" TC, so with that my element is a good 2" off the bottom of my kettle. You should be just fine without a false bottom or guard, especially with a ULWD element.

I've intended to put a false bottom or guard in mine, but have had good success thus far with just using binder clips to hold the bag off the element.

It’s regular white vinyl with the black and logo printed on it. The carbon fiber look is achieved with a laminate on top of it all.